Yesterday was the first time back to the track this year. With the help of others watching; my car wheelies about 3-4'' but doesn’t carry them very long. Then the problem the front end stays up fairly high and both front tires are toe'ed in bad and the bottom of the tires are in bad (-camber?) Both front tires have a fairly bad feather edge on the inside of the tire. So obviously it was doing it last year too, just not as notice able? Only change I made over winter was converted from SS springs to mono leaves and Cal-Tracs.

Is it just and alingment issue?

I take mine to a good alignment shop...they are racers and know where it should be..

what needs to be done is the front picked up on the alignment rack to where it would be like going down the track and then the alignment is done..

I forgot what mine was...perhaps someone else will chime in with numbers...

Sounds like alignment to me.Check the lower control arm bushings as well.

All the bushings are relatively new.

So it’s safe to say if it’s aligned correctly that the tires shouldn't be toe'ed in so bad going down the track.

I have heard that the Dynamic strut rods CAP sells will help with this problem too? Any opinions?

Ok so here is a video, can't see much. Any one have any comments?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7VskF4-z_V4

I would have the alignment checked by a good shop that deals with performance/drag cars. on a side note, I went to renegade today with the dart, all was well 'til it blew the tires off at the hit first round, good to hear you had a little better luck than I did.

Are you going to run points at Renegade, Mopar or Pro?

No, I race points over at pacific with the rest of my friends and family. Renegade was one of the only tracks running this weekend and it was relatively convenient so I said why not.

While you are at the alignment shop and the car is on the rack, have them measure the toe, and then raise the car 1" and measure and record the toe, and keep doing this til the wheels come up off the ground. You are checking for bump steer. If the wheels are toeing in as the chassis rises it sounds like bump steer. The DC manuals explain how to correct it but it's a bit of trial and error, and massaging parts you may not be used to messing with, like heating and bending the lower control arms, shimming the steering box, or moving the idler arm.
BTW, whatever alignment you get, make sure they raise the chassis one inch, and THEN set the alignment. Simulates the chassis rise under acceleration.