Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: racerx]
#2849335
11/21/20 12:20 AM
11/21/20 12:20 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,042 Oregon
AndyF
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What was the reasoning for getting rid of the dana? I need a wider housing to work with my new wheels so I figured I might as well buy a 9 inch rather than a S60.
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2849421
11/21/20 09:32 AM
11/21/20 09:32 AM
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 4,071 Mo.
racerx
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master
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Posts: 4,071
Mo.
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: cryplydog]
#2849586
11/21/20 02:42 PM
11/21/20 02:42 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,042 Oregon
AndyF
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Andy, what is the weight differential between the two? I don't know, I think the 9 inch is lighter but I won't know until I weigh them.
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2851906
11/26/20 04:24 PM
11/26/20 04:24 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,204 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
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Bend,OR USA
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I've ben a opponent of using the Ford type 9 inch due to the increase pinion gear drag compared to a Dana 60 or even a Mopar 8 3/4 or GM 12 bolt. Buying all after market race parts for them, including the housing, can make them a lot better on that loss That may not be a valid concern for most street cars but the differences are measurable with a inch lb. torque wrench Dana 60 last longer under all lot racing with lots of power, their cheaper also
Last edited by Cab_Burge; 11/26/20 04:25 PM.
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2853267
11/30/20 11:09 AM
11/30/20 11:09 AM
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Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 744 Almost Heaven
Bob Stinson
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super stock
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Almost Heaven
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Yes wrong length. They installed 3 inch studs but the order was for 2 inch studs. The BOM was correct but someone reached in the wrong box during assembly. Not a huge deal, I just spun them out and screwed in the correct ones.
I got the Baer brake kit installed. Took me a few hours of "on the job learning" to get it installed. First side took me half a day, second side took about 20 minutes. The e-brake assembly had me stumped for a long time but I eventually figured it out. The axle has to be in a certain position for it to go together and then the lever on the back side of the housing has to be in a certain position before the shoes will go on. So it is a bit of a puzzle that has to be solved. The instructions don't mention any of that, they just say to assemble the parts.
Once I had the brakes on I weighed the full assembly. As it sits right now it is 212 lbs but I need to add a gallon of gear oil so that will make it 220 lbs in the car. I'll weigh the S60 when I pull it out so I know the difference. I assume the S60 is heavier but I didn't weigh it last time I had it out so I don't know exactly what the difference will be. I just pulled a 9" rear out of what will eventually be a similar looking white 71 Duster. It wasn't nearly as nice as that one though.
69 road runner A12 ex-racer 71 Duster w/ a 400
Shiny paint causes stress.
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2927141
05/27/21 01:17 AM
05/27/21 01:17 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,042 Oregon
AndyF
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I sold the S60 and the driveshaft. Been getting the Duster out for short drives lately. It goes pretty good with the new Ford 9 inch. The 3.89 gears seem to be a good choice for this car and I like the S Trac better than the Detroit Locker that was under the car. I haven't weighed it yet so I'll do that next. I'm sure the 9 inch was a few lbs lighter although I doubt the difference was a huge amount. The car looks better with the Weld wheels and 17 inch tires out back but not sure it was worth the cost. Swapping the S60 for a nine inch turned out to be an expensive project. Ah well, that is just how it goes sometimes. Can't control what happens sometimes.
Last edited by AndyF; 05/27/21 01:19 AM.
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2927432
05/27/21 09:05 PM
05/27/21 09:05 PM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,554 Rittman Ohio
fourgearsavoy
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I Live Here
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Posts: 10,554
Rittman Ohio
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The stance of that car looks like it can go around corners and tear up the strip The cost of the 9" with be worth is when you want to change gears or posi ( and you know you will) is much easier . Looks good Andy. Gus
64 Plymouth Savoy 493 Indy EZ's by Nick at Compu-Flow 5-Speed Richmond faceplate Liberty box Dana 60
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: fourgearsavoy]
#2927497
05/28/21 01:00 AM
05/28/21 01:00 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,042 Oregon
AndyF
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The stance of that car looks like it can go around corners and tear up the strip The cost of the 9" with be worth is when you want to change gears or posi ( and you know you will) is much easier . Looks good Andy. Gus It does go around corners just fine. It won't hang with a Porsche, but it handles better than most muscle cars. I put the biggest anti-sway bar I could find up front and I used Koni shocks as well as decent sized 17 inch tire and wheel package. I went with 13 inch rotors both front and rear so it stops really well. The rear handles pretty well also for a solid axle with Caltracs. I keep the Caltrac bars set up a little loose for street driving so they don't lock things up while cornering. The S trac is a little better behaved than the Detroit Locker that I took out. The Locker would sometimes act a little weird around corners, especially if the road had a big crown or was uneven. I haven't taken it to the track yet but it pulls hard on the street. I had it out yesterday and the g meter was showing 0.6 or 0.7 g's at 3/4 throttle on the street. It never spins the tires, just hooks and goes. Seems to go straight too which is a good thing.
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