That's the truth!

I'd love a 410 stroker in a Dippy or NY'er.

I highly recommend. A Police one is best if you can find because you already have many upgrades that will be helpful, but a solid Fifth Ave will be easier to find because they were popular with the elderly.

A no nonsense '88 Gran Fury AHB, but missing slotted Police wheels

I was walking through my local pull a part last Thursday getting parts for my hot rod and was amazed to see an 85 5th Ave sitting in there! The car looked great, had the 2 tone red/grey outside paint and the red plush interior. Someone had pulled something off the front suspension on one side, but other then that, the car was still complete and pretty much intact. The wire wheel caps were gone, but all 4 tires and 15 x 7" wheels were still there. Pretty much a shame it will be complete history in a few months, but it looks like a lot of good parts are available. Its at LKQ in Rockford IL. Gene

Yeah right lMop .... but a Dippy 2 door with velore and a sunroof WITH a 410 is muchO bester !

Someone with good A engine experience needs to put me together a grocery list of a 12 flat regular gas motor !

To each his own. I'll take me an old Po-Po four door with the HD parts and NO leak roof any day over a "velore" or Dippy 2 door. Not that I wouldn't take me a 2 door "velore" or Dip 2 door.

I asked before ... what’s the leak issue ?

And if I could find a 5th that had a sunroof and I would go that route ... I would prefer a 4 door.

Well I was speaking in generalities. Sunroofs all seem to leak after time. Am I not right?

I have an 05 Carrotvan.. leak free !

Is it a seal issue or misalignment?

...because this little gem rocks my world!!!

Diplomat360's is a BEAST!

Seals and/or rust from holding water there.

Sunroofs have a pan around them that catch water and have drain hoses to get it out of there. They say all sunroofs leak and when you get water in the car it's because those drain hoses are clogged.

We've had a few cars with sunroofs in the family and only one ever leaked. It went back to the dealer a few times to be fixed. I think the entire sunroof was replaced once, the healiner once from staining. The new one stained again but they cleaned it. Personally I hate the things. When the shade is open the sun thru them heats up the car, I hate the draft and wind noise when they're open when you're driving. There's no point to leave them open when the car is parked because a bird can [censored] in it and if it's vented it doesn't do anything when that chunk of extra glass is still letting the sun in. Then you have that leak potential.

Thanks Larry...you know how long it took me to get it there though...lol, nuthin' but love and the right kind of madness could have made me do it!!!

Anyways, you've got a pretty hot M-body yourself...too bad we are so far away, would love to do a get-together at the track and shoot the breeze.

Come on Dippy360 ... what’s the 411 on that machine ?

Oh you don't have to ask me twice...

Here is the low-down on the current combo, keep in mind I'm working on a W2 stroker at the moment with a hydraulic roller cam that's just a tad hotter then the flat tappet I've got in there right now. I'm looking forward to the spring...

Car is a 1980 Dodge Diplomat Coupe, 3600 lbs. w/ driver (175 lbs).

Engine is a 0.020" over 360, hyperutectic pistons (Sterling H116CP), 10.5:1 static CR. For heads I went with a set of factory 596 castings, Manley 2.02/1.60, 11/32 stem, new bronze guides, and a standard 3 angle valve job. Hughes Engines cam, the HE3844AL piece, it specs out as follows: .535/.540 lift, 237/243 dur. @ .050", 286/290 adv. dur., 108 LSA. Performer RPM intake and a Carter TQ carb (9800 series with the built in electric choke). Ignition handled by the MP chrome box with the Accell Yellow tower coil.

727 transmission with Raybestos clutches & bands, shift kit, modified valve body, basically a tweaked new rebuild. Converter is a 4k stall, Dynamic 9.5" unit. Finally the rear end is a 8 3/4" unit with a 741 casting 4.10 SG.

Exhaust wise I'm running 1 5/8" primary tube header (Hooker) into a 3" dual exhaust system, Hooker MaxFlow mufflers with X cross-over.

All in all it's a fun weekend toy! Blast on the street, a tad slow at the track (best ET of 13.03 @105) due to absolutely horrific traction and no weight transfer. The car is setup to handle on the street (KONI adjustable shocks, both sway bars, etc.) as opposed to being a straight-line champion.

Here is a link to a YouTube video video my son put together from one of our track days back in 2016.

The Diplomat coupes were always my favorites of the F,M,J body cars. I wasn't asking why Doc would want one but rather why he wanted to know. I guess there should have been a comma after why. My mistake. I like your car.

Ha ha...oh boy, I guess the years of abuse by the Mopar die-hards (being told how the M-body could "never be Mopar muscle") did me in!

Actually, I did suspect that maybe you meant to say something different...thus the Happy Banana in my post!

Very cool for you to clarify though, much appreciated Mr. Guitar Jones!

That would be a blast for sure. The difference is YOU built yours, mostly with your own two hands. Much more than just a crate engine swap and a few other upgrades. You built it all yourself. VERY impressive car with beautiful paint and body too!

Good to hear from you D!

www.firmfeel.com has lots of suspension and steering parts for our cars too. I have their Fast Ratio pitman arm and idler arm, aluminum K Frame Isolator replacements eliminating the rubber ones, urethane kit for everything up front. I also have the larger Moog tie rods and the stock larger Police anti sway bar.