Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car?
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#2719672
11/27/19 10:14 AM
11/27/19 10:14 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,907 S.E. Michigan
ZIPPY
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,907
S.E. Michigan
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Cab we've been talking on these boards for 20 years or more, but I have to admit I don't know how much of a purist you are. Maybe I'm not too observant LOL. If you have to have a mopar style ecu then don't read any further. For non-msd type applications, since giving it a whirl I have become a big fan of the GM HEI module + Ford TFI coil combination, triggered by a regular Mopar electronic distributor. I liked it enough to start a thread about it: click to read thread about ignitionThe coil is Std Motor products FD478T or equivalent. 1990 F150 with a 351 would be the application. The ignition module would be a std motor product LX301 or equivalent. 1979 Corvette 350 would be the application. Together they will run about $30. It's no MSD, but it makes a pretty strong spark: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iYv4H26SRs&feature=youtu.be
Rich H.
Esse Quam Videri
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Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car?
[Re: ZIPPY]
#2719680
11/27/19 10:32 AM
11/27/19 10:32 AM
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Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,306 nowhere
Sniper
master
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master
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,306
nowhere
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Cab we've been talking on these boards for 20 years or more, but I have to admit I don't know how much of a purist you are. Maybe I'm not too observant LOL. If you have to have a mopar style ecu then don't read any further. For non-msd type applications, since giving it a whirl I have become a big fan of the GM HEI module + Ford TFI coil combination, triggered by a regular Mopar electronic distributor. I liked it enough to start a thread about it: click to read thread about ignitionThe coil is Std Motor products FD478T or equivalent. 1990 F150 with a 351 would be the application. The ignition module would be a std motor product LX301 or equivalent. 1979 Corvette 350 would be the application. Together they will run about $30. It's no MSD, but it makes a pretty strong spark: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iYv4H26SRs&feature=youtu.be This is pretty much what I am doing with my 51 Plymouth. I will be building an electronic ignition distributor for it using a /6 distributor as the basis with the rest as you describe. We will see how it goes. I'll be documenting it on my webpage and will post in the project forum.
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Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car?
[Re: ZIPPY]
#2719717
11/27/19 12:31 PM
11/27/19 12:31 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,589 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,589
north of coder
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Zippy, it's a good thing your battery didn't have any outgassing going on, or you could have seen a big ball of fire instead of a hot spark ! that is NO place to check spark out put ! have you ever seen a battery blow up ? PLEASE GUYS. DON'T have, or cause HOT SPARKS AROUND BATTERIES ! you were VERY LUCKY this time, but next ? sorry for the rant, but SAFETY FIRST ! next time, use the intake manifold or head bolt the negative cable attaches to. rant over.
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Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car?
[Re: moparx]
#2719761
11/27/19 02:52 PM
11/27/19 02:52 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,285 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
OP
I Win
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OP
I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,285
Bend,OR USA
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Zippy, it's a good thing your battery didn't have any outgassing going on, or you could have seen a big ball of fire instead of a hot spark ! that is NO place to check spark out put ! have you ever seen a battery blow up ? PLEASE GUYS. DON'T have, or cause HOT SPARKS AROUND BATTERIES ! you were VERY LUCKY this time, but next ? sorry for the rant, but SAFETY FIRST ! next time, use the intake manifold or head bolt the negative cable attaches to. rant over. I had a Sears Diehard explode in a 1962 Plymouth Fury I use to own, it ruptured the top and spewed acid all over the left side of the engine compartment and on the bottom of the hood, some leaked out onto the front fender also I had stopped for gas and the original alternator regulator was malfunctioning over charging the battery at 30 amps for over a hour. I shut the car off and when I went to restart it, it had flooded some from the heat under the hood, it was in the Mojave desert in mid May and once the motor started to catch it backfire through the carb and the air cleaner inlet tube (it was a later air cleaner for a 1969 C body) was directly over the battery and the fumes form the over charged battery went BOOM I hate Murphy
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car?
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#2720385
11/30/19 04:42 AM
11/30/19 04:42 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,122 Auburn WA
Dave_J
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,122
Auburn WA
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OK, I took my last failed 4 pin ECU and submerged it in boiling water a few times and was able to pry out all of the epoxy potting. Under was a PCB with what Kind of looked like what an HEI module looks like under its plastic. It was embedded in silica sand and epoxy too. Guess what? NO wires going to the 'Transistor' Cap mounted on the aluminum heat sink. There is a plastic sealing ring under the cap but not drilled for wires. Its a dummy. We got this last one from Autozone. Duralast CR109. "Duralast products are engineered and manufactured by Wells Vehicle Electronics" Posted on FABO too.
Retired, US ARMY 1973-1994 ASE mechanic, Electrical 1994-1997 Retired GTE/VERIZON/FRONTIER 1997-2015
Posting cheap tech help (CRAP) here since Nov 97, 1000's of posts, some may be good.
03 Suzuki Burgman 650(Burger King) Scooter 65 Formula S Cuda 78 Little Red Express Truck 98 Buick Regal (wifes car)
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Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car?
[Re: Dave_J]
#2720446
11/30/19 02:10 PM
11/30/19 02:10 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,122 Auburn WA
Dave_J
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,122
Auburn WA
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I will try to take pictures of how I do my mod.
I plan on cutting the ECM's tin case under the OEM looking aluminum heat sink and then using some 1/16 inch solid copper sheet to cut out a mount for the GM HEI module that is slightly larger than the cut out in the tin case. I will use two tapered head 8x32 screws to mount that copper sheet to the back of the OEM heat sink with heat sink jelly and fake Trans cap. Then two of the same screws to mount the HEI module with that jelly to the underside of the module to copper sheet.
This should wick away all the heat into the OEM looking aluminum heat sink.
Retired, US ARMY 1973-1994 ASE mechanic, Electrical 1994-1997 Retired GTE/VERIZON/FRONTIER 1997-2015
Posting cheap tech help (CRAP) here since Nov 97, 1000's of posts, some may be good.
03 Suzuki Burgman 650(Burger King) Scooter 65 Formula S Cuda 78 Little Red Express Truck 98 Buick Regal (wifes car)
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Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car?
[Re: Dave_J]
#2720452
11/30/19 02:39 PM
11/30/19 02:39 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,489 Omaha Ne
TJP
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,489
Omaha Ne
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Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car?
[Re: Y3 70 BEE]
#2721086
12/03/19 08:01 AM
12/03/19 08:01 AM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,098 Valencia, España
NachoRT74
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,098
Valencia, España
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After the A688 FBO module was not anymore available ( due the Standard Motor productions move ), GREAT MODULE BTW, Don began to make the HR688 module, which was found applied the same, hide a HEI module into a Mopar "look a like" housing ( similar to the actual HHR688 ). This was found by a customer member of some of the Mopar boards I'm member when got the HR688 failed. I felt this like a scam or cheat. When my A688 module failed ( somehow under warranty time ) and got offered to be replaced by the HR688 which was available by those days I simply denied to get a fancy box with an HEI Module inside, which I can make by myself with one of the stock module boxes I have and getting the module cheaper at any shop, even locally in Venezuela. Maybe some performance HEI Module, and still cheaper. So simply got a credit from him to get another product ( got custom made pushrods ) to make valid the warranty. This was around 10 years ago.
Then he released the HHR688, which seems to be a nice one and engineered from the begining maybe. He gets a good customer service, nice reference information for tune up and is a nice guy, but that situation really got me shocked.
I still have the damaged A688 module in hands, hoping someday get it fixed ( Maybe by Don itself ), and get it as spare while I'm running the Rev-N-Nator
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car?
[Re: kowalski440]
#2721538
12/05/19 12:01 AM
12/05/19 12:01 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,122 Auburn WA
Dave_J
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,122
Auburn WA
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Here is my finished unit. I went with a $10 HEI just to see if this works. I may step up to a better HEI module later. Not counting the Autozone failed ECM, I am into this for less than $15. Used 4 pieces of 14 gauge wire, 4 crimp spade ends, a smeer of Heat Sink paste, 1 each 1 inch 8X32 screw, a shot of Rustoluim 2X paint and the the HEI module.
On the fake Transistor cap I had to re-tap the one screw hole for the HEI module's through bolt, the two original screws were metric and I reused only 1. When retapping, only go in far enough for the new screw to be tight. I ran the tap down all the way and had to peen the back side threads a bit
Retired, US ARMY 1973-1994 ASE mechanic, Electrical 1994-1997 Retired GTE/VERIZON/FRONTIER 1997-2015
Posting cheap tech help (CRAP) here since Nov 97, 1000's of posts, some may be good.
03 Suzuki Burgman 650(Burger King) Scooter 65 Formula S Cuda 78 Little Red Express Truck 98 Buick Regal (wifes car)
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Re: Better than stock ECU for direct replacemnt hot street car?
[Re: NachoRT74]
#2721577
12/05/19 07:48 AM
12/05/19 07:48 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 10,228 Colleyville
3hundred
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 10,228
Colleyville
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Isn't posible to use the plugs for safety isolation whicth chassis ? It is possible, a GM internal regulator alternator plug works on one side of the HEI module, both are 1/4" spades, on the other side one is 1/4" and one 3/16" spade. The only connector I could find was the pigtail of a GM pickup coil. Robert
'68 Fury Convertible '69 300 Convertible '15 Durango 5.7 Hemi '16 300 S Hemi
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