Adam, how are you? John.

Some people should not be allowed to use tools

Since you, and I assume the body guy, are in Italy, I'll keep the slang remarks out.
That is a very poor attempt at repairing sheetmetal. It is not finished, and should not have been started if that's the guy's skill level.

Short version...
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=343957&highlight=bodywork

Long version...
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32050

have you ordered the hit yet?

Are you aware of AMD, new full quarters available for that car now.... You are a in pretty deep

Who ever did the work is simply ripping you off and also ruining a good car. Sounds like you've already dropped alot of money into this project. I'd make it well known not to do business with the guy who did this and even take some sort of legal action to get some of your money back.

To do this car properly, if you can afford to, you need to put full 1/4s on it. Basically calling Auto Metal Direct (AMD) and having it shipped. I know its big bucks to probably do that. If you want your car to be nice, you mine as well order a new 1 piece floor pan and the trunk drops too.

I think the car is in worse shape now then when it was started.

you are gonna need a bigger building.I will call you guys at the shop, John.

thank you guys for your precious hints

I'm seriously considering to get a full quarter, at the time I got the car I didn't a full one.

Let's see what's under that patch!

thanks again

from the barn ...




1st body job

before second sandblast

after second sandblast

Epoxy Primer

second sandblast and epoxy primer was done by another shop...

Amazing anybody would be willing to have that out there with their name on it. Wow.

I stripped and dipped this Cuda body and found some of the same type of bodywork, it was covered by lots of Bondo, that eventually popped and cracked.









This type of work only works for a flipper car that you plan on selling quick.

That's brutal.

When the welding on my car was done, I couldn't tell where the weld was or where the patch started and stopped (on either side)....THAT's what a proper job should look like.

The metal should be the right shape to begin with; not beat with a ball peen hammer and the welds need to be gone over until they are continuous.

Dave

Where do I begin...
lets see...

For some reason 68-70 SuperBee/Coronet Quarter panel replacement seems to be a science all its own..and I don't know why

They are a real pain because usually
the rear windshield corner is shot and patching
it almost NEVER looks right UNLESS the guy doing
it has done this repair multiple times.

AMD offers a rear windshield corner patch for this
that looks like it might work... depending on the
skill of the welder doing it.

However, In the case of your patch on the sail panel - I'm sorry but that's totally unacceptable.

Why?
1) Even if your going to "mud" over it and cover
the sail with a vinyl top - you'll see this repair under the vinyl. The sail panel will NEVER look right...

2) What it looks like he's done is laid a piece of stock sheet metal OVER your existing damage and tack welded it in place about every 1/4 inch.
What about the space between each tack?

Moisture will get underneath that and it will be mess in short order

3) If the body man had an ounce of welding experience/ he could have easily "laid" this piece
over the damage - held it in place with cleco fasteners or for that matter sheet metal screws and then taken a cutoff tool and neatly spliced it in with butt welds...

The result: a fully welded, level, spliced-in patch.. that would need only minimal filler when finished...

Take this back and tell him to try again!

2) The quarter panel...

This is 1 approach to replacing the side and outer upper section of the factory quarter with the skin...

1) Slice old one off,
2) flange top line
3) then lay on new skin and tack weld...

The flanging I don't necessarily have a problem with, He tack welded to avoid warping. but he should have finished filling in all the gaps..
There should be no gaps..it should be filled in with tack welds solid all the way across.

There was a demo of this approach in mopar muscle
magazine on an old 69 Charger years ago...

The problem I have with this is he didnt need to section off the top part of the quarter panel where it wraps up over the door jam..

He should have sectioned underneath that top body line = the line that mates with the top of the door...

It looks like he took off the door jam as well.
Bad idea with a skin...

He should have sectioned off underneath the top
quarter line, about 1 -2 inches in front of the door jam and he should have save the rear marker light and tail panel matings as well...

There is a demo of this approach on
www.musclecarrestorations.com

Now that he has taken the top portion of the
quarter panel off. Your only recourse is to section and replace the entire quarter panel with
the OEM version from AMD...

Your lucky, really nice quarters are available from AMD which look fantastic.
if you had a 70 Coronet/superbee you'd be SOL...

Good luck

My

well at this point i shouldnt have to tell you thats a very poor job.any unwelded areas will come back,with a vengence! then you will be driving a "crack-baby".

Depending on what you paid and how much that amount of money hurts to lose, I would seriously consider small claims court. You could get some of your money back.......