Would this subwoofer and amp work on my b body?
#2612858
01/27/19 01:30 AM
01/27/19 01:30 AM
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Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 18 California
Luis Zavala
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OP
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Joined: Apr 2018
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California
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Curious if this subwoofer would work on my superbird. It’s all original. No I will not be cutting anything on my car or anyting. Just will hide it in the trunk. Curious if I would need to replace thwiring to new wiring or my alternator to something bigger? Or if the factory wiring and alternator will work https://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-dxa2...p;skuId=6298925
Last edited by Luis Zavala; 01/27/19 01:32 AM.
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Re: Would this subwoofer and amp work on my b body?
[Re: Luis Zavala]
#2612974
01/27/19 10:52 AM
01/27/19 10:52 AM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,780 Holland MI Ottawa
2boltmain
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master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,780
Holland MI Ottawa
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Definately large gauge wire straight to the battery. The install kits are cheap and have everything but your old tech alternator may not be up to the task. In the early 90s I had a Realistic 120 peak watt amp in my Challenger and it was fine but I dont know what the amp draw was or if the unit really put out that power.
Keep old mopars alive.
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Re: Would this subwoofer and amp work on my b body?
[Re: Luis Zavala]
#2613048
01/27/19 02:17 PM
01/27/19 02:17 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,096 Valencia, España
NachoRT74
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Valencia, España
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on ammeter cars NOTHING must be hooked on batt side of the charging sytem, but on alt side ( no matter if on a juntion inside the cab, but allways on alt side. A wrong sourcing will get wrong readings on ammeter and even damages on it
and the alt upgrade is MANDATORY even running stock cars. This is a big fail from MaMopar what has being hurting the wiring on the long therm life of our cars
some touchs on wiring and bulkhead and voila.
we have talked about that on several threads... search for alt and wiring upgrades around.
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: Would this subwoofer and amp work on my b body?
[Re: Dcuda69]
#2613811
01/29/19 01:07 AM
01/29/19 01:07 AM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,107 Western Md.
skicker
"The Champ"
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"The Champ"
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,107
Western Md.
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As mentioned earlier...don't skimp on the capacitor...
...FAFO...
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Re: Would this subwoofer and amp work on my b body?
[Re: Luis Zavala]
#2613856
01/29/19 03:23 AM
01/29/19 03:23 AM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 6,096 Valencia, España
NachoRT74
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master
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Valencia, España
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Capacitor works like a power temporal reserve which will be sucked at every boom of the bass saving the batt and alt from trying to supply that load with every boom, afecting everything on car.
Last edited by NachoRT74; 01/29/19 08:54 AM.
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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Re: Would this subwoofer and amp work on my b body?
[Re: NachoRT74]
#2613965
01/29/19 12:36 PM
01/29/19 12:36 PM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,107 Western Md.
skicker
"The Champ"
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"The Champ"
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,107
Western Md.
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They come in different sizes...In my truck with a small sub and amp I have a 1 farad...In the car with a large sub and two fairly large amps I have a 5 farad... In my pic above the black boxes are Rockford Fosgate Amps...One mono channel for the sub and one 4 channel for the speakers...The silver box to the left is the 5 farad capacitor...barely visible in the pic beside that is the fused link running to the battery thru #0 cable... Be sure to buy good quality installation kits as some of them on the market are garbage...If you stick with buying through Crutchfield you should be fine... In a perfect world the fused connection should be closer to the battery and not in the trunk...
...FAFO...
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Re: Would this subwoofer and amp work on my b body?
[Re: Dave Hall]
#2614186
01/29/19 06:22 PM
01/29/19 06:22 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318 Manitoba, Canada
DaytonaTurbo
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
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Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
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Could you explain the capacitor? Why? Do these amplifiers draw more than about 5 amps? Yes, way more than 5 amps. A typical amp for a sub will have a cable feeding it the same size as the one going to your starter. The capacitor acts as a power storage so every time the subwoofer booms, that amp surge comes out of the capacitor instead of straight out of the alternator. Run a decent size amp with no capacitor and your headlights will dim with each boom of the sub and you will fry your alternator. I don't bother with this stuff anymore, but years ago I learned some of these lessons the hard way.
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Re: Would this subwoofer and amp work on my b body?
[Re: Luis Zavala]
#2614220
01/29/19 07:37 PM
01/29/19 07:37 PM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,107 Western Md.
skicker
"The Champ"
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"The Champ"
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,107
Western Md.
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My Amps run #4 cable from the capacitor to each Amp on both the positive and negative side. The capacitor is powered by a #0 wire from the battery. Using this set-up I have no issues even when running at night using the headlights and the volume above 20...Which it is a lot...The whole system is more powerful than most would like...Only down side is you have to Dynamat the crap out of everything to get really good sound...there's a point where it becomes a "must have"... I had some grounding issues in the dash when everything was first built...turn up the volume and the oil pressure would drop and the temp gauge would rise...grounded those gauges back to the engine and it was corrected... Alternator is a one wire Powermaster unit...I think 75 amp...
...FAFO...
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Re: Would this subwoofer and amp work on my b body?
[Re: Dave Hall]
#2614790
01/30/19 10:25 PM
01/30/19 10:25 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,376
dogdays
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Posts: 16,376
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Lots of BS floating around here.
This amplifier is Class D which means at max output its efficiency can be 90%. To get 250 watts from 14.4 volts requires 17.4 amps. Dividing by 0.9 gives 19.3 amps. But let's consider voltage drop from battery to amp and guess it at 1.5 volts, now flat out the amp should draw 22 amps. That should be the max. Volume set on 10. For everyday driving the average power used should be more like 1 watt to get 90db, 2 watts to get 93db, 10 watts to get 100 db, 100 to get 110db. I think the calculations are right. Twice the power increases by 3 db, 10 x the power increases by 10.
So the maximum amp draw should always be less than 22 amps.
The minimum wire size suggested by kicker from battery to amp is 8 gauge. I'd agree bigger is better.
The amp will use your high level output, like a speaker level output, to get the signal. Or they will take line level (preamp level).
I'd say the system will work in your car as long as you aren't entering any sound level competitions. If you have added any extra power drawing things like electric fans you may need a 65amp alternator, otherwise you're probably all right. I'd run both positive and negative wires from the battery to the amp and put it closer to the front like the package shelf rather than in the back of the trunk. Make sure you use fuses.
I'd hold off on capacitors until I found a need. This forum is full of people who love to spend other people's money. They make only the best suggestions about ideal installations or equipment. On their own they might choose much less expensive gear.
R.
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Re: Would this subwoofer and amp work on my b body?
[Re: MidPenMopar]
#2614827
01/30/19 11:42 PM
01/30/19 11:42 PM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,107 Western Md.
skicker
"The Champ"
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"The Champ"
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,107
Western Md.
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I went back and looked at the link and the equipment again...Nothing to it and fairly low-line stuff. I doubt it will have enough a$$ to require anything super heavy duty as far as wiring...It would have a little more effect if the box was sealed and not ported... In the end it's all in what you want...
...FAFO...
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