Hi Doug, Yes sir I have encountered that before after first start up with others. They hold quite a bit that can't be easily drained.

May not need to mark the stick as the style I decided on traditionally reads 1 qt overfilled with 7 quarts in it...but will test and find out. Marking the stick and all is part of the plan if needed + I'm going to make provisions for a sight tube so I can get a visual of the oil level at higher rpm.

I'm assuming these pictures are with the valve fully closed, correct? If so are you concerned on the contact of the rocker arm pad on the inner edge of the lash caps?
I am
Hemiroid motors

Pics seem hard to post for so many. From email and for info purposes, here's a shot of Ron's 572 showing the pan that was swapped on, right after the high rpm oil pressure issues were found with the reproduction street hemi pan. I really like the shallow depth/ground clearance of this one.

For the time being I'm going to try to avoid centerlink pass-through and external lines, but it's good to know what works and it's all there if I need it later.

I like the hard line made idea from the pump to the pan. I should have done something like that on mine. Between the -12 180 degree fitting I used & the -20 An fittings I used on my water pump & radiator it made for some tight clearances.

My pan: Trap door hanging from the rear lower face of the tie rod hole blocks oil to front on shut down. Baffle at the top of the oil pan rail to keep oil from climbing up the rear of the pan. Single line swinging pickup. The oil level with 6.5 qts in the pan is at the bottom of the tie rod hole (4.5" below the pan rail).
Doug

Great info on this thread. Reminds me of the old days here! Thanks

Doug - I am guessing based on the drawing your engine is moved back about 1.5 inches??

Amen Rich!!

Motor placement was years ago. As I remember it is up about 3/4" and back about 1".
Doug

6PKRTSE: I don't mean to hijack this thread but I do have a couple of questions. I assume that the Hemi in the picture is your engine. Could you tell how much horsepower and torque you made on the dyno? I have a friend looking at an advertised Hemi that they are claiming makes 1349hp and 850tq. Have no real info on the engine.

Thank you

Thread hijacks are encouraged

Oiling again.... blacksmith skills required but I was prepared. Side of the pan interfered with both the pickup and the stick, had to heat and provide clearance here and there. Pickup location is different because of the different block. Ordered a couple windage trays from 440 s@urce to try, and after checking them out believe I will probably modify a traditional style tray slightly to fit.

Being header-equipped I didn't see the point in a fancy stick, so
I made do. Research brings up numerous threads here how this simple part seems to frustrate folks.

An early present showed up, the Crane 420 circle track roller I was asking about on another thread. It's from B@rton's stash sold through a 3rd party. It checked out perfectly.

Don't make fun of my little degree wheel lol. I had a larger one but I loaned it out, and it never came back (thanks alot, Roy). Smaller wheel is harder to read. It works fine but it's best to triple check. Crane lifter (sitting on top) won't work...tie bars hits the block on the base circle. Comp 829 fits fine and will probably get the nod.

Intake centerline came out to 110, Crane calls for 107 on this grind With 572ci I'm not sure I need to worry about advancing the cam. Considering trying it as is. Any input?

do you want to be able to spin the hind tires anytime you want?
If so advance that rascal to 105 ILC
if not put it in at 111 to 113 to kill the bottom end and trade that for top RPM pulling increases

You're making progress. I try to keep one of everything on hand so I can check fit and function when building a new combination. Looks like you're doing the same thing. Some parts work with some parts but not with others so you just have to try them. I'm not surprised at all by the oil pickup and windage tray mods. Stroker engines always require some dinking around in that area.

The pictures are still ugly so this should fit right in.
CC'd piston tops for 1" down.

You know, it's not just measuring dome volume because there's more going on than that. These pistons have a 73cc dome but with 13cc of dead space around the edges (below the deck) + the valve reliefs, they're effectively the same as a flat at zero + 60cc dome...that's how I like to figure it anyway but my mind is pretty warped.

Dont have any finished heads ready to go but checked a beat/repairable one to ballpark it. Looks like it'll be 10.25:1 with a .040 gasket. Need to Clay piston-to-head to confirm no hemi problems.

ML are the same as CC's....For anyone wanting to do this, you need a drill, a chunk of plexiglass, a 100ml syringe from eBay, some grease and some water. It's not lab quality but will get you within 2 CC's which is plenty accurate enough for anything I'll ever do.

Cam is degreed in and corrected. I misspoke earlier, Crane calls for 107 intake centerline and that's what I went with. It's 112 straight up on both intake and exhaust, so it's confirmed 112 LSA and installed
5 degrees advanced. I've never run 112 LSA in anything "hot", but it's getting up there at .050 so maybe that will make it slightly more street friendly.

Change of heart on the oil pickup. I'm going to run single line static in this deep pan, so I took this pic to stare at and imagine the line routing. After all the dinking around with the internal pickup I just didn't like how thin I had to make it,to clear the rod.
"What if it cracks and sucks air?". It also had very little purchase into the adapter threads as well, maybe 3 threads at the most....just didn't like it.

Now with the deep pan more or less locked in, the "stroker" windage tray actually makes sense, so I'll give it a try.

Chip's considerable influence had me looking closely at the 440 source aluminum pan, but I only have steel welding capability right now and will need to change the pan somewhat, so I went with steel.

Have you decided on where the line will run yet? At some point you're going to need to get the engine in the car so you can verify clearance for the line. It has to sneak around the K frame, steering box, motor mount, headers, steering shaft, etc.

If you have a spare K frame you might be able to mock it up on the floor. That is what I do if I have the parts. Are you changing your K frame over to a Hemi style or using conversion mounts?

I'm doing the same thing right now with my Duster. I just keep adding parts and double checking to see if everything still fits and clears. It is a slow process but it is the only way to get everything packaged into the space. We don't have the luxury of having a full CAD model of all the parts like the OEM guys do.

Cam looks to be of the vintage when they(Crane) were still manufacturing billet cores.

My experience has been that the Crane cores were fairly friendly with regards to wearing out the bronze distributor gears.