Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2587406
12/05/18 11:05 AM
12/05/18 11:05 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,027 Tulsa OK
Bad340fish
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,027
Tulsa OK
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If you are running cal tracs with the solid bushings in the front you will probably find you don't need the front sway bar. I was very surprised at how much the solid spring eye bushings killed body roll when I put them on ages ago. My car doesn't have much body roll with cal-tac monos, /6 bars, and no sway bars. On drag week this year we went through lots and lots of sharp and curvy mountain roads. My car sits at about 4000-4100lbs on the road for drag week(gear plus passenger) and handling was of very little concern, I think the spool and skinny fronts run out of talent before body roll can become an issue. Just an FYI if you want to save the weight.
68 Barracuda Formula S 340
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: Moparteacher]
#2587520
12/05/18 02:43 PM
12/05/18 02:43 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,041 Oregon
AndyF
OP
I Win
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OP
I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,041
Oregon
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Are you installing a rear sway bar that is proportional to the new front sway bar?
Motor mounts? No motor plate? I do not intend to add a rear sway bar. Yes on the motor mounts. I'm pretty sure that I'm going to switch over to the DC type K frame with spool mounts and not use the motor plate. I have some other things that I want to do in the engine compartment that won't work with a motor plate so I'm making the switch.
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: Bad340fish]
#2587531
12/05/18 03:11 PM
12/05/18 03:11 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,041 Oregon
AndyF
OP
I Win
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OP
I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,041
Oregon
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If you are running cal tracs with the solid bushings in the front you will probably find you don't need the front sway bar. I was very surprised at how much the solid spring eye bushings killed body roll when I put them on ages ago. My car doesn't have much body roll with cal-tac monos, /6 bars, and no sway bars. On drag week this year we went through lots and lots of sharp and curvy mountain roads. My car sits at about 4000-4100lbs on the road for drag week(gear plus passenger) and handling was of very little concern, I think the spool and skinny fronts run out of talent before body roll can become an issue. Just an FYI if you want to save the weight. I hadn't thought of that. I'll keep on eye on how the rear bushings make the car feel.
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: RustyM]
#2587689
12/05/18 07:09 PM
12/05/18 07:09 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,041 Oregon
AndyF
OP
I Win
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OP
I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,041
Oregon
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I'm no A body expert but it wouldn't surprise me at all to find that the sheetmetal location is different between various years and models.
TTI has the engine location on their website. They'll tell you where the center of the crank should be side to side and up and down. Best thing you can do is put the engine where TTI wants it and then just deal with any problems that pop up.
I've sold the 2 1/8 headers and I'm switching to 1 3/4 headers. The 2 1/8 headers physically fit on my car but they required a very time intensive process of installing and removing. For example, it required a couple of days of work to change the starter.
On my car given my tools the only way to remove or install the headers was to remove the K frame. So the car had to go up in the air and then the suspension and steering had to be pulled away so the K frame could be removed. Once the K frame was off the car then the headers went in and out with 5 minutes of work. TTI says the headers can be removed or installed from below if the car is on a two post lift. I don't have a two post lift so I had to pull the K frame. I came to the conclusion that I didn't need the big headers for what I was doing with the car.
Last edited by AndyF; 12/05/18 07:14 PM.
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2588090
12/06/18 02:42 PM
12/06/18 02:42 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,499 So. Burlington, Vt.
fast68plymouth
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,499
So. Burlington, Vt.
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Rusty, Andy’s motor is a low deck........ so it will have more header clearance than your RB.
68 Satellite, 383 with stock 906’s, 3550lbs, 11.18@123 Dealer for Comp Cams/Indy Heads
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2588100
12/06/18 03:09 PM
12/06/18 03:09 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,505 TN
SCATPACK 1
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,505
TN
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Looking at the picture of your engine sitting there ready to install; noticed you had coil on plug. What would it cost to change a regular engine over to this set up and would there be any benefit/gain for a mostly street w occasional strip use?
Old Geezer Racing
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2588161
12/06/18 05:46 PM
12/06/18 05:46 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,505 TN
SCATPACK 1
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,505
TN
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Here is a better shot of the front chassis work showing the under fender bracing as well as the new core support. Awesome work as always Andy. Just a thought, you may want to add that fresh air vent back to the battery box side if you are still going to run the battery up front. It will help to keep the battery temp down a little with summer street driving.
Old Geezer Racing
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