|
Re: Still having to prime my carb to get my car to start
[Re: Sixt8Chrgr]
#2570397
10/27/18 10:31 PM
10/27/18 10:31 PM
|
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 4,450
Morristown Tn.
71birdJ68
master
|
master
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 4,450
Morristown Tn.
|
Just the way gas is now a days. If my car sits more than 2 days I have to crank it to fill the bowls.
Last edited by 71birdJ68; 10/28/18 12:07 AM.
|
|
|
Re: Still having to prime my carb to get my car to start
[Re: dragon slayer]
#2570430
10/28/18 12:24 AM
10/28/18 12:24 AM
|
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 177
NC
Sixt8Chrgr
OP
member
|
OP
member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 177
NC
|
What is a fuel sending unit? Cars can do this. Some add an electric pump to prime the carbs before starting.
You can break the fuel fitting after the pump and vapor cannister at the carb. Crank car and see if you get fuel out of line. Even measure pressure if you have a gauge. If not some thing amiss and work your way back to the pump.
But it can take a long time to prime the carb(s) and line when the car sits and the fuel evaporates. [i][/i] Fuel pick up in the tank with the sock is what I should had said. What my car is doing is not normal. It did not do this prior to the resto and the fuel vapor canister. I did re use the fuel pick up and should had changed it. I did take the fuel line off the carb after cranking if for a long time and it was bone dry. Did the same with the line off the carb and had the line in a bottle...no fuel. Did not crank real long though. Since the fuel gauge is not 100% correct might as well change out the gauge sending/pick up with a new sock and see if that fixes it
|
|
|
Re: Still having to prime my carb to get my car to start
[Re: Challenger 1]
#2570431
10/28/18 12:26 AM
10/28/18 12:26 AM
|
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 177
NC
Sixt8Chrgr
OP
member
|
OP
member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 177
NC
|
Yes I bet the sock on your pickup in the tank is dirty if you have not checked it.
I have a 440 and a 340 with stock mechanical fuel pumps and fresh socks in the tanks. They both start after sitting for months. Yes I have to crank them for 15-20 seconds while pumping the gas petal but they start consistently for more than 10 years now. The 440 has a 6 pak and the 340 has a edlebrock 600 on it with mechanical chokes that work. The chokes help too. I haven't had the air cleaners off in years literally.
Besides the sock check for any rust, even the smallest pin hole will cause problems starting in your steel suction line. Can't have any leaks in your suction line, check it. Will do thanks
|
|
|
Re: Still having to prime my carb to get my car to start
[Re: Sixt8Chrgr]
#2570509
10/28/18 09:56 AM
10/28/18 09:56 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,567
Ky
jt4406
pro stock
|
pro stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,567
Ky
|
Agree with all the "above", but would like to add: check length of your fuel pump push rod against a known good one (this fooled me recently) and seems I remember reading that some of the repop six pack vapor canisters had a return orifice that was too large? May be worth looking at if your pickup sock and fuel pump pushrod prove to be good. jess
Yeah, it's hopped up to over 160...
|
|
|
Re: Still having to prime my carb to get my car to start
[Re: Sixt8Chrgr]
#2570566
10/28/18 01:04 PM
10/28/18 01:04 PM
|
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,645
Phila. Pa.
Mattax
top fuel
|
top fuel
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,645
Phila. Pa.
|
Only thing to add is there should be some fuel in bowl when first starting. It should not need the fuel pump to run to refill it. There should be enough fuel in the bowl to start and run it for a minute or so. Quick check: Remove air cleaner lid and see if the accelerator pump shoots fuel out. If yes. Do it again to see if there's enough fuel in bowl to refill the pump. If no. remove top of carb to see if there is fuel in the bowl. If yes, accel pump may need new seal or check valve. If no, its either weeping out or evaporating. Also, just know there's several service bulletins in 70s addressing the issues of starting. Some models got an internal bypass in the pump which helped hot starting but made cold starting more difficult. http://www.imperialclub.org/Repair/Lit/Master/307/index.htm
|
|
|
Re: Still having to prime my carb to get my car to start
[Re: Sixt8Chrgr]
#2570571
10/28/18 01:16 PM
10/28/18 01:16 PM
|
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 348
Texas Hill Country
Centerline
enthusiast
|
enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 348
Texas Hill Country
|
Today's Ethanol laced fuels evaporate at a much higher rate than normal "gas" and that is your problem. If you let the car set for more than a week all the fuel in the carb will evaporate and you wind up having to crank the engine for a while to fill the bowls again. You don't find this problem with fuel injected cars since they all use electric pumps and run on high pressure. You also won't find this problem with a carburetor setup when using an electric pump.
With the crap we have for fuel now days you basically have three choices. Change to an electric pump and eliminate the mechanical pump, add an electric pump with a check valve to bypass the mechanical pump so you can fill the bowls before starting, or fill the bowls manually before starting.
Those are pretty much your options. Good luck.
Centerline
64 Dodge Polara 426 Street Wedge - For when I want to go fast
99 Corvette Z-06 - For when I want to turn corners
|
|
|
Re: Still having to prime my carb to get my car to start
[Re: Sixt8Chrgr]
#2570608
10/28/18 03:09 PM
10/28/18 03:09 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,748
Rio Linda, CA
John_Kunkel
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,748
Rio Linda, CA
|
Do modern cars have this problem? No. Do modern cars have carburetors? No. The answer to the OP's problem lies here, modern fuel is gonna evaporate from open reservoirs.
The INTERNET, the MISinformation superhighway
|
|
|
Re: Still having to prime my carb to get my car to start
[Re: jt4406]
#2570721
10/28/18 08:53 PM
10/28/18 08:53 PM
|
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 403
IL us
ink
mopar
|
mopar
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 403
IL us
|
Agree with all the "above", but would like to add: check length of your fuel pump push rod against a known good one (this fooled me recently) and seems I remember reading that some of the repop six pack vapor canisters had a return orifice that was too large? May be worth looking at if your pickup sock and fuel pump pushrod prove t.. be good. jess this... got me new push rod was the fix !
|
|
|
Re: Still having to prime my carb to get my car to start
[Re: ink]
#2570759
10/28/18 10:18 PM
10/28/18 10:18 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 299
Hinckley, Ohio
KWF340
enthusiast
|
enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 299
Hinckley, Ohio
|
Agree with all the "above", but would like to add: check length of your fuel pump push rod against a known good one (this fooled me recently) and seems I remember reading that some of the repop six pack vapor canisters had a return orifice that was too large? May be worth looking at if your pickup sock and fuel pump pushrod prove t.. be good. jess this... got me new push rod was the fix ! Same here. If the car hadn't been started for an extended time period (maybe a week or two - can't remember) then no matter how long I cranked the engine it would not start. To get the engine to start I also had to manually prime the carb. I eventually found that the push rod was worn and once replaced the problem was gone.
Last edited by KWF340; 10/28/18 10:30 PM.
1968 Charger R/T, 440 Auto, GG1;
1969 Super Bee, 383, 4-speed, T5;
1969.5 Road Runner, 440-6, 4-speed, 96;
1970 Duster 340, 4-speed, EV2;
1970 Charger R/T SE, 440 (496), Auto, EB3;
1970 Dart Swinger 340 (416), 4-speed, EV2;
1970 Corvette coupe, LS5, 4-speed, Daytona yellow;
2000 Corvette coupe, LS1, 6-speed, Twin Turbo, Torch red.
|
|
|
Re: Still having to prime my carb to get my car to start
[Re: Sixt8Chrgr]
#2571095
10/29/18 05:12 PM
10/29/18 05:12 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,563
Motor City
6PKRTSE
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,563
Motor City
|
3RD vote for a fuel pump push rod being worn. I had this problem before on one of my other Hemi's when it sat for a period of time. Seems it would not give it large enough pump shot while cranking. Once fired it would idle & run fine. Once it changed out for a new push rod the problem went away & start right up every time afterwards. Even seemed to pull harder at higher RPM also, so it must have been losing fuel pressure at high RPM's also.
1963 Belvedere 440 Max Wedge Tribute
1970 Charger R/T S.E. 440 Six Pack
1970 Challenger R/T, 528 Hemi
1970 Charger 500 S.E. 440 4 BBL
1970 Plymouth Road Runner 383
1974 Chrysler New Yorker 440
1996 2500 RAM 488 V-10 4X4
2004 3500 Dually Cummins 4x4
2012 Challenger R/T Classic.
|
|
|
Re: Still having to prime my carb to get my car to start
[Re: Sixt8Chrgr]
#2571932
10/31/18 01:26 AM
10/31/18 01:26 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,499
N.E. OHIO, USA
A12
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,499
N.E. OHIO, USA
|
Simple vacuum leak in the fuel line, like a cracked hardened rubber fuel line, loose hose clamp, bad gasket at the tank pick up, bad vapor separator, too low float level, weak accelerator pump or restricted accelerator pump passages. Shouldn't the fuel line stay primed all the way to the fuel pump and the carburetor float chamber(s) stay full from when the engine is shut off. Check the accelerator pump function before you attempt to start it the next time after it's been sitting it should pump plenty of fuel if it has fuel in the carb
|
|
|
Re: Still having to prime my carb to get my car to start
[Re: Sixt8Chrgr]
#2571933
10/31/18 01:30 AM
10/31/18 01:30 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,499
N.E. OHIO, USA
A12
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,499
N.E. OHIO, USA
|
This is getting real old. I thought the fuel pump was bad. Changed out the Precision Pump for a nice Carter M6903. Still when the car has sat for a long time the pump is not getting fuel to the carb while trying to start it. Only after the car fires after the carb is primed does the pump have enough pressure to get the fuel to the carb. Car is freshly restored except for the fuel sending unit.
Could it be the fuel vapor canister? This is new
Bad fuel sending unit? I did not replace this when I restored the car.
Thanks
Lawrence
speaking of fuel vapor separator weren't there some bad ones out there that didn't work correctly? Bypass it and see if that's your problem.
|
|
|
Re: Still having to prime my carb to get my car to start
[Re: BlueRacer69]
#2571971
10/31/18 06:53 AM
10/31/18 06:53 AM
|
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 566
WA
tman
mopar
|
mopar
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 566
WA
|
Not to highjack this thread, but does anyone make a good aftermarket fuel pump push rod with harden ends these days? Suggestions. I could use one myself. Thanks. Check out this thread and scroll down. Person sells oem mopar fuel pump rods. https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...tml#Post2515947
|
|
|
Re: Still having to prime my carb to get my car to start
[Re: Centerline]
#2572808
11/01/18 11:20 PM
11/01/18 11:20 PM
|
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 177
NC
Sixt8Chrgr
OP
member
|
OP
member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 177
NC
|
Today's Ethanol laced fuels evaporate at a much higher rate than normal "gas" and that is your problem. If you let the car set for more than a week all the fuel in the carb will evaporate and you wind up having to crank the engine for a while to fill the bowls again. You don't find this problem with fuel injected cars since they all use electric pumps and run on high pressure. You also won't find this problem with a carburetor setup when using an electric pump.
With the crap we have for fuel now days you basically have three choices. Change to an electric pump and eliminate the mechanical pump, add an electric pump with a check valve to bypass the mechanical pump so you can fill the bowls before starting, or fill the bowls manually before starting.
Those are pretty much your options. Good luck. I don't run Ethanol fuel only real gas.
|
|
|
Re: Still having to prime my carb to get my car to start
[Re: Sixt8Chrgr]
#2573087
11/02/18 04:11 PM
11/02/18 04:11 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,538
Albany, NY
67SATisfaction
The member whose name is actually Art
|
The member whose name is actually Art
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,538
Albany, NY
|
Hey - another possibility - it could be your fuel pump pushrod is worn down so it hardly pumps until the engine is running at higher-than-cranking rpms.. Just a suggestion.
There is an allen screw in the block under the fuel pump, pull it out and the fuel pump, then the pushrod drops out, check for length. I have a post about it somewhere here.
I had the same basic issue, really hard to start, excessive cranking after parked for a week, had to keep filling the bowls manually before starting.. and in hindsight I had intermittent fuel starvation too... The fix cost $16 and took 20 minutes.
But - I still refill the float bowl with a squeeze bottle so I don't have to crank the 20 seconds first. Now it fires up nicely and stays running.
Best,
- Art
65 Satellite hardtop 361/4bbl console 727 2.76
67 Satellite convert 383/2bbl column 727 3.23
67 Lancia Fulvia Sport 1.3 Zagato. Alloy body, 1.3L V4 DOHC 4-spd
67 Lancia Fulvia Rallye 1.3. Alloy panel, 1.3L V4 DOHC 4-spd
71 Alfa Romeo GT Junior 1300 Zagato, 1.3L 4cyl DOHC hemi 5-spd
82 Alfa Romeo GTV6 2.5L SOHC hemi V6 5-spd transaxle
75 Maserati Bora US spec 4.9L DOHC hemi V8 5-spd ZF
77 Maserati Khamsin Euro spec 4.9L DOHC hemi V8 5-spd ZF
07 Aston Martin DB9 6.0L DOHC V12 6spd transaxle
|
|
|
Re: Still having to prime my carb to get my car to start
[Re: 71birdJ68]
#2573979
11/04/18 05:31 PM
11/04/18 05:31 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,886
Lost and Spaced
bboogieart
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,886
Lost and Spaced
|
Just the way gas is now a days. If my car sits more than 2 days I have to crank it to fill the bowls. Not sure I agree. Been running the Ethanol (garbage?) for years. My 76 truck and 77 van start right up after two pumps on the gas pedal. Sets choke and adds fuel. Sometimes they sit for months at a time. Maybe it's the low compression but they always fire right up. I have a 75 Cordoba that needs a shot of fuel dumped down the carb. I think the Dobies trouble is sticking front brakes. The heat created boils out the fuel after shut-down. Come spring I'll do a brake job, then I'll know the outcome.
I have mechanical Aptitude.
I can screw up anything.
|
|
|
|
|
