Anybody get the latest Mopar Action?
I heard Lee was in it.

I'm also in the dark as I have not seen it either. By the way, the last recent survey article was in Mopar muscle magazine, unless you are stoking up that infamous "The Art of street racing" article back in the 90's also by Cliffy.

This Mopar action should bring the humor and the seriousness of this car under one umbrella.

Thank you by the way.
I'm having a hard time putting in some seat time. NY shuffle and hustle keeps my finishing and tires flat footed.

got my copy in the mail yesterday. GREAT article ! they call him a "blind graffiti artist".

Rock Star status............ Going to look for a copy today........

Looking forward to my copy. Got it yesterday. Nice article. I wish I was this tallented.
Doug

How much is an autographed copy?

I got my issue in the mail yesterday. Really good article. Much more in depth than the MM article.

How much for an autographed copy?
As much as it will cost to ship it to me and back.

Thanks a whole lot guys.

It's worth all the hard work to retrieve info and pictures from the past along side a busy schedule at hand.
Funny, I've still haven't seen it.
Waiting for the stands to carry them.
I'm patient.
Enjoy the read, it's getting nippy.

I'm surprised you haven't taken weight out of the engine. A fully machined crankshaft would save you 10 lbs plus there are rods and pistons that are much lighter than what you're running. Beehive or conical springs are lighter than duals, porting the intake saves some weight, etc. You could probably take 30 or 40 lbs off that engine without working too hard.

I had Best machine do me this motor with what I already had as a cheap budgeted build against their better judgement to go with a lighter rotational set up. They even suggested a semi mild street roller against my wanting a old school flat tappet.
At the time I was fixated with trying to keep a small tire combination planted and scooting on un-prepped surfaces.
Your right Andy, and when the times comes to refresh, I'll look into that.

At one time I was considering an aluminum block but too many stories good and bad blocked that idea, at least till all the dust settles.
Believe it not, I still have a few pounds here and there sans the engine as you mentioned that will see the waste bin and then it will be fun from there on.

i'm jealous !

Touch base with Tim at FHO on the status of the new KB aluminum wedge blocks. I think they'll have the new castings available next year. They'll look stock to most people but experts will be able to see the cross bolts and stuff like that. A new shortblock based on a KB aluminum block could save you 150 to 175 lbs depending on what you use internally. Even with a budget build you could save significant weight. 440Source has lightweight stroker cranks now and Molnar 7.100 long rods are much lighter than an Eagle or SCAT rod. Here is a picture of the fully machined lightweight SCAT crank that I'm running. SCAT has superlite cranks in their catalog. I think you can even buy them from Summit these days.

Is your carb all aluminum? The newer carbs are all aluminum and save 3 or 4 lbs. I can't tell from the pictures. The fuel pressure gauge with isolator is heavier than an electric version. Of course if you really want to take weight out you can switch to a throttle body setup. Once you go with EFI you can ditch the ignition box and most of the gauges. Your alternator looks fairly heavy. Is that a GM alternator? You can get a 6 lb Denso unit that puts out 55 amps.

Here is a picture of the small 55 amp Denso mounted on a big block. You could do your twist on this idea by cutting the brackets from Ti and using aluminum or Ti for the bolts. I used to get brackets cut from Ti on a water jet. The water jet doesn't care, it cuts Ti just like butter.

Yes, It's a GM 140 amper and IIRC, it weighed like 11 Lbs or so where as the original 35 amp Chrysler unit was around 14 Lbs.
I installed that one wire alternator after what it seemed was a low rating on the out put of the original. I have an electric fan with relays, electric Aeromotive in tank fuel pump, lights, and was spooked that the 55 Denso units would not pull their lightweight stuff. Perhaps I am paranoid.
I have not seen or read the article yet, but I've got Ti bolts holding most things together on the front of the engine including the alternator, water pump, oil pump, timing chain cover, fuel pump cover, valve covers, intake manifold, carb, (Yes it's aluminum) headers, brake reservoir, you name it. Engine plate is also holding on with Ti bolts on all points. All T6AL4V fasteners.

Yes, the Molnar crank and rods are the new thing. (My friends Hemi is now running them)
In all the haste to get the motor done years back, I forgot to shave off the factory unused motor mount ears on the block. That thick iron stuff there probably adds up to 2 lbs or more.

I think you would be fine with 55 amps. If not just reinstall the GM unit and sell the Denso. Have you considered a lightweight battery? The FX guys would've killed to have a 6 lb alternator that put out 55 amps and a lithium battery. If you could go back in time and show those guys this stuff they would burn you for witchcraft.

Do you use CAD for any of these parts? If you have access to a simple CAD system then you can easily get blanks cut from aluminum or Ti on a water jet or on a laser. I paid $99 for a set of MasterCAM Design years ago and it is all I need to design my parts.

Have you looked at the super lightweight gauges that are available now? The new Holley EFI gauges only weigh 2 oz each. Old school Autometer gauges are 6x times heavier than that.

Shannon at Redline Gauge works can help you save some weight by reworking the instrument cluster. A GPS powered speedometer eliminates the speedo cable. You can convert the ammeter to a volt meter and eliminate a gauge. Same thing with the idiot light for oil pressure. Switch that over to a gauge in the cluster and eliminate the separate oil pressure gauge. It will all look stock but work better and save you weight.

great job man love that car

Thank you fellas.

Andy, Yes I have a 21 Lb lithium battery out back with all aluminum power cable connecting it to the firewall junction post. From there on to the starter it's all copper strand.
Years ago when Autometer came out with their lightweight gauges (I think they ae called Autolites) I was first in line for them. They were significantly lighter than the older regular Autometer gauges. I also have a 5" Monster RPM Autolite gauge poking out on a 30 degree angle from the dash where I can see it with the corners of my eyes. It looks like the factory installed it there.

As fas as my instrument cluster, believe it or not, I went into that as well. I stripped it down of all parts, hole sawed the sides to remove the most of that HEAVY cast metal and applied a good 3M tape over the holes. I then painted the whole inside a flat white so that the light could reflect better and reinstalled all my circuits and light sockets etc. IIRC I took off some where between a pound or so.

Congrats Lee!

Andy.

I've never used CAD programs to make parts. Most shops or computer heads out here are too busy to give the light of darkness. LOL
For that, I approached everything with an old school mentality consisting of found or purchased materials at surplus outlets, rulers, pencils, hacksaws, drills and determination.
I would love to CAD a few items that I can not make or just simply don't have the time to. It would be cool to mill out or 3D print titanium and or aluminum door handles, dash mounted knobs, mirrors and such.

Thank you TBoom.

Congrats !! Ron

Thanks Ron. Your car is propers in my book without rules.

Andy, can I move into your shop? LOL

Lee....Outstanding!!!
Want to save a little more weight, ditch the Holley and build a Thermoquad.

What does this car weigh now?

Shoot me a PM with some things you might want to work on and I'll see if I can help. I have CAD programs for a lot of parts. I mostly focus on 2D or 2.5D parts but I know guys who do 3D and have solid printers. The new gen solid printers can print metal parts but I haven't used that technology for any car parts yet. Here is a picture of the Holley EFI gauge that only weighs 2 oz.

We need a LIKE button!

How cool...big congrats are in order!
Will definitely have to keep an eye out for that one at the newsstand.

There's lot of weight in a stock steering column & jacket that can be removed; I think I posted a photo of my buddy's column on the weight-reduction thread, but that was back when I knew how to post photos here.
basically, a lighter shaft, cut windows in the jacket. I think his weighed something like 8-10 lbs after he was done (drag car, no turn signals).
Love the idea of aluminum door handles; I presume you've already done the hinges.

Since you have a running combination you could have your charging system tested to see how many amps you are actually using. Anyone with a decent voltmeter and amp clamp should be able to do the test for you. Turn on all of your lights, fans, pump, etc and see how many amps you are pulling. I doubt you use more than 55 amps. If you like the look of the factory alternators you could probably get an OE 37 amp unit gutted and rewired to put out 60+ amps. I'm sure it would be a lot less work than you invested in that steering wheel! That was a crazy amount of work. I can't even imagine how much work you have tied up in some of those parts.

Oh No Andy is talking logic.

This is a very well deserved honor, with all of the hard work and determination you put forth over the years. You have my respect and appreciation for sure. Congrats!!

Hey guys.
Just getting a glimpse at this on the north side of midnight.
First and foremost, thank you most for the inspiring remarks.
Though this should be generated to the real world weight loss thread, it's cool to reflect on here as well.

Andy:
"Shoot me a PM with some things you might want to work on and I'll see if I can help. I have CAD programs for a lot of parts. I mostly focus on 2D or 2.5D parts but I know guys who do 3D and have solid printers. The new gen solid printers can print metal parts but I haven't used that technology for any car parts yet. Here is a picture of the Holley EFI gauge that only weighs 2 oz."

I'd love to take you up on the offer to help with the CAD stuff in what ever way you possibly can. I'll soon send you over some quick flicks to give an idea of parts and you let me know if its realistic.
I'd love to see door handles, side view and rear view mirrors be printed out of aluminum. Those things are heavy so imagine that.
That EFI gauge is unimaginable in that weight class. Talk about Welter feather weight category.

Topside:
"Love the idea of aluminum door handles; I presume you've already done the hinges".

Yes, I had already addressed the hinges quite a few years back when I found the cat that was reproducing the A864' and A990-65' aluminum hinges, but did not install them till recently when the new doors went on.

Rtsrunner:
"What does this car weigh now?

Though I've yet to see the article, I'd hate to blow the meat and potatoes before it hits the stands.
I will say this though after holding out for so long, I've done a few minor things since I've last talked to the "Action" team, so I can safely say that the car has now dived below the 3000 Lbs watermark.
I'd like to go back and weigh it and get a real world number to you guys within this coming week or next when I pay a visit to the Lab.

More importantly, cars don't go down the road on their own, and standing weight or curb weight is just that, curb.
If I could get this thing where it carries my 175 Lb structure while still flashing at or about 3000 Lbs, I'd be a happy camper.

Andy:
"Since you have a running combination you could have your charging system tested to see how many amps you are actually using. Anyone with a decent voltmeter and amp clamp should be able to do the test for you. Turn on all of your lights, fans, pump, etc and see how many amps you are pulling. I doubt you use more than 55 amps. If you like the look of the factory alternators you could probably get an OE 37 amp unit gutted and rewired to put out 60+ amps. I'm sure it would be a lot less work than you invested in that steering wheel! That was a crazy amount of work. I can't even imagine how much work you have tied up in some of those parts.

I am going to look at my amp draw and see what kind of electrical appetite it has. I'd be more than happy to run one of those 55 amp mini power stations being that they probably weigh next to nothing.
Are they a one wire combo?

I can't even imaging how to tell y'all how much work both hard and fun it has been to make things for this thing.

Over, but not out.

Congrats FMJ! Now I need to run out and grab a copy...

I forgot I had this in my tool box until I spotted it today. This is a really simple tool for measuring current flow. I checked my starter and it draws 175 amps when the engine is cold. My ignition box uses 10 amps while the engine is running. The alternator in my car puts out about 35 amps with the engine running. Goes to 45 amps if I turn the lights on. The battery was fully charged in this picture so there was only an amp or two going to the battery.

My car may literally have thin skin and all, but thank God I have thick skin.
Cliffy went to town with the snapping on my isms. LOL

That's what happens when you are neighbors in the same hood back in the day. LOL.

Good read and I'm glad they touched on the shadowy influential 2% cars.

Y'know, if the door glass doesn't have to roll down, there's the vent frames & glass and the regulators to consider. Plus the aluminum upper door frames the 4 '65 A/FX hardtops had - they also had the same deal to support the quarter glass.
Some ATVs have plastic interior door handles & lightweight latches and strikers, but that might be pushing it on a street car or in an emergency.
I assume the access covers & splash shields have already been set aside.

Damn, Lee, you make most of us look like slackers!

2% Eh Shot these in '08

"2%" actually refers to the NHRA Rule. The cars inherited that label, but it's not the actual measurement of the cars.
Both Ford & Chrysler actually moved the wheels about 5% but were trying to sneak it past the NHRA. Easier to hide the rears than the fronts.

I've actually snuck the rear past most eyes for many years, but the front stood right where Mother Mope put 'em. Besides, imagine the cost and work of moving a K-member and torsion bars a few inches forward.
I figured by moving my engine back and the rear tires forward, it was equivalent to a 2% set up without the front tire give away.

Top.
Yes, all the inspection shields and splash shields have been set afloat many a years back.
I guess I had some time to think and play back in the day and now Mother work came a knocking. Gotta take that wave while it's cresting.

Congrats Lee! Haven't been on here for a while, but have to pick up a copy! Can you post some photos of the car as it sits? Haven't seen it in person in years. Where are you racing (legally LOL) now that E-Town is defunct?

Tommy D.
I have not raced the car in these parts recently. I towed it out to Michigan a few years back and raced and cruised it there.
Other than that, I towed it out to Cecil and Atco.

I have not liked the politics at E-town for a few years before they slammed shut their doors in everyones faces. I guess I was ahead of the times and knew their game.

Car looks pretty much as you see it in the article sans the door mirror.
It's still black on black with premiered fenders upfront. Runs a little quicker since the time you probably last witnessed it with a few sand bags taken out. LOL.

Go get a copy and I'll sign it for you when I see y'a.

I got only three copies yesterday at Barnes and Noble and they had sold the rest before. Now trying to get more copies at another B&N just to keep for my records.

Haven't found one out here yet but still looking...........

The ultimate 2% car in my unruly book.
What a gem.
Perhaps one day I'll be worthy of being first in line for it.

Lee, such great news. Huge congrats. You must be special, and have more than 24 hours in a day.. You stay so busy, God Bless. Miss ya, Brother!! Brooklyn Dodges forever!!

Thank you man.
That's the problem, there isn't enough hours in a day for me. Went to the garage tonight just to twist a wrench for an hour. That was barely noticeable in what I did.

Glad to be firing on all cylinders with your products.

Here you go, SCAT superlight crankshaft. This is a 4.25 stroke and it weighs 64 lbs. They can be made even lighter by gun drilling down the center. This one is going in the 426W block for my '65 Coronet.

It's tough being FMJ!

I put on the cape years ago as Mr Hyde and never took it off. LOL.