Wondering what kind of motor oil is best to use on a 440-6 car. Let me know please. I appreciate the help.

10w40

What type? I was told it should be one with zinc because it is an anti wear addictive. Is that the correct type to use? Is it recommended? Anyone have any specific brands or specific motor oil?

I use Brad Penn 20W-50 in my RB 496

I feel over the last few years, most will suggest either Brad Penn, Driven, Schaeffer and a few will chime in with Valvoline VR1. There will also be some still stuck on Rotella however; a lot of the good stuff has been taken out of it over the past 5-10 years but, again, some are still stuck on it. You'll also have some chime in with X oil with a zinc additive etc.

I personally have used Brad Penn for years without issue but, over the past few years especially since the company changed hands, many including some well known engine builders will say that it has changed and they have stopped using it due to some wear issues seen during rebuilds. I still have some old stock along with some I've purchased more recently, I normally mix half of the old with the new. I've still not had any issue but, I may be going to Driven in the future. I don't build these things every day but, will defer to those who do and trust what some have reported.

Now, sit back, gab some popcorn and hold on because this normally is a touchy subject.

I use Delo 400 with a bottle of Comp Cams Additive. The Delo 400 with the black cap is the old formula which is better than the new formula with a red cap.

I usually run Royal Purple HPS 10w30 or 10w40 with either a Royal Purple or Wix filter

Valvoline VR1 10-30

Where in CA do you live and drive your six pack car? If west of the Sierra Mtns. near the coast I would and did , use 5 20 WT in the winter and 10W30WT in the summers, straight petroleum base, not synthetic if the motor has over 5000 miles since built or rebuilt
Make sure and use a good quality Zinc additive with every oil change.
if your east on the Mtns. out in the desert then use 10w30WT in the winter and 10w40WT in the summer or maybe even 2w50WT in the summer with the Zinc additive if your in the low desert like Barstow or lower

I’m in Southern California in a valley. So it’s pretty hot here. And yes I drive my bird about twice a week

I use Kendall 10w40 with a little GM EOS added in and a NAPA Gold filter. Also have a filter mag as well.

I used to run Valvoline, but the Kendall oil is very similar and much cheaper to buy in bulk at a local commercial oil retailer. Parts store oil prices here practically doubled back around 07-08 and never really went back down.

VR1 20/50 Here

Viscosity choice will be based on clearances and oil pressure for YOUR engine.

In our 440-6 with slightly less than .003 (rods and mains),
we use 10-30 VR1 and have 70# at cold start-up, 20# at hot idle, we're happy.

Joe

I have ran 10-30 in the winter and 20-50 in the summer in my 540" Hemi with a flat tappet cam for years. And I ran it in my 500" wedge for years before that. You can spend more money and jump through more hoops to buy some "specialty" oil, but your engine will be just as happy with the readily available VR-1.

It doesn't really matter. Just grab anything that is on sale that is roughly the correct viscosity. Trust me, it really doesn't matter that much. I use the cheapest stuff that Costco sells in race engines all the time.

This isn't what anyone wants to hear, especially oil dealers, but it's been my experience as well. Improper break in, lack of lifter rotation on flat tappet applications, questionable parts quality, excessive spring pressure, excessive rpm and so on probably aren't considered as often as they should be.

I do tend to stash some away when I can get a deal. A few years ago I finally used up the last of my Valvoline Racing 30 stash (old enough to be pre-VR1) and switched to more modern stuff for flat tappet break in. Delo 400 SAE 30 works just as well. People talk about old oil formulas like they were the holy grail, I've seen analysis of them and they really weren't too impressive.

For nearly stock flat tappet stuff, I don't feel anything special is really needed.

This isn;t 1970 where there was a large variance in oil quality and such.

All oils that show an API spec have to meet fair tight tolerances leading them to meet the same minimum level of quality and requirements. Anything above that level is gravy that's probably turd polishing for all intents and purposes.

Oils without an API cert, well you can believe their crap shoot info if you want. I always wonder why they won't certify.

I haven't seen a non cert oil for sale anywhere that I buy oil. WalMart, Costco, Napa, etc. Might be able to find a non cert oil in a farm and tractor supply place or something like that?

Lots of Amsoil stuff doesn't have API cert

Cue fanboyz