This is what mine would do when it started to get hot. It would start spitting out the squirters first then if you let it keep getting hotter it would erupt out the vent tubes. Even after you shut of the engine it would sit there and spit gas out of the squirters until it cooled off.

Shilohs vid on dyno. where can i find it?

Sounds very familiar. How did you fix your issue. I just added 5 gal. of rec gas which is 91 octane here in mi. Put the wood spacer back under carb. Will try this while im working on some kind of carb shielding.

As was mentioned, I believe this is mostly the result of today’s pump gas formulations.
It would be very interesting to see if you drained the tank and swapped out the fuel for some race gas if the problem went away....... in a true back to back test.

This link was posted on another thread about a different issue, but there is an interesting tidbit about a mod for the boosters percolating;

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/racingfuelsystems/pro-950-carb-good-base-line-t504.html

Its definitely the gas. I ran it low then drove up to this new station that sold 89 non ethanol then drove home and the engine was way hotter by the time I got home. I let it idle for like 40 minutes and it was fine . normally within 15 minutes it would start acting stupid. as far as fixing it I really haven't. the new summer blend gas does way better but it will still do it just not as easy. Saturday I cut out the bottom of my scoop to try and see if it will let the heat out from under the hood. something I didn't want to do but its worthless that I cant go have fun and ride around without it getting stupid. If it works I will try to figure out something else for cool air to the carburetor. of coarse its rained every day.

You should read through the thread in the link for something that seems like an actual solution.

That’s not an endorsement...... I’ve never tried it myself.

I will definitely read that. My issue is with the pri squirter/fuel only. No issue with gas dripping from boosters or coming out vent. Im sure my issue is fuel/heat related.

I read the article and thanks Dwayne. I once had a prosystems carb that used those bleeders in the pump shot circuit. If i can fix this issue with better fuel like a 50/50 mix of pump and race fuel i will bump the timing up to 36* total and run it. I think it might like that.

Ok, bought a piece 6x16 sheet metal today. A friend came over and wanted to help with the carb bowl shield i spoke of earlier. This is what we ended up with. this should keep the heat off the accell pump and fix the over heated spiting squirter issue.

Was gonna paint it black, but had some carbon fiber adhesive left over from another project. Hope it helps.

Can’t hurt.

I’ll be curious how it works out.

That looks like it will cut down the heat transfer rate but not the heat soak in the carb,intake and I understand it is a process to see what works.

Well, being that the fuel doesn't boil in the bowl and/or drip from boosters, my thinking is the fuel in the pri accell pump is a smaller amount than whats in the bowl and boils or starts evapping causing the fuel to be pushed out the squirter. This shield blocks accell pump and in theory should fix my issue. I with pick up some more recreation fuel today and give it a try. Will see.

thinking WAY out of the box here. has anyone tried to fab a "tube shape" [round or rectangular shape] that goes from the front of the carb, to the vicinity of the fan blades to capture some of the fan air ? would that concentrate enough cooling air to keep carb temps down a bit ? using a flex fan like you show in your picture would be the best, as those can really blast the air. anyway, just an old geezer putting something out there. i have come up with goofier ideas in the past.

I like out of the box thinking, but your idea would be much better if you ducted cool air from the radiator support area instead of air that has passed through the radiator.

BMW does this with a short section of duct to their alternators.

i'm gonna point out this comment and provide the link dwayne is referring to.
hint, looks at tuner's post...

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/racingfuelsystems/pro-950-carb-good-base-line-t504.html

The acc pump has no vent and the bowl dose to let out vapors.[just fyi]

Not a good back to back scientific test, but it was fun. i picked up some Dragon 110 race fuel today and mixed 50/50 with sunoco 93. First drive was with the air bell on the carb. Engine temp was 195 and no issues with fuel spurting out squirter by itself. Next drive air temp dropped to 66* from 75*, so not a good comparison. This test drive was with the drop base air cleaner on anyway. Engine temp only hit 180* and no signs of fuel boiling any where. I did notice that with the cooler air temps and a race gas mix, this engine is much happier. Man, what a power house. While blowing tires off thru first and second the rpm's rarely go over 6500. Not the case now with the air cleaner on and race fuel. It now hits the rev limiter at 7200rpm while blowing tires off thru the gears. This engine has never ran so good. Great street manners at the stops and fires right up with just a touch of the start button. What a grin to drive. Oh, and i'm not running street tires. I'm running 14.50 QTP's.

Aren't you glad that is does what is does now with all your work to make it better
Where is the burn out Emogi?

Yeah. Thanks to the guys on this site helping out and Dom getting this 1100 working real nice.