I had my 2014 Dart in at the dealer for a clutch hydraulics extended warranty issue recently, and they initially were trying to blame the sticking pedal issue on low fluid in the reservoir due to my rear brakes being worn and rusty.
I refused their offer to do a close to $500 rear brake job and was skeptical of their claim of worn rear brakes on my 60K miles car, as I generally get over 100K on rear brakes.
But after I got the car back and inspected it, the rear brakes are pretty rusty looking and I now have doing the rear brakes on my to-do list.
I guess the spoked rear wheels expose the rotors to rain and salt leading to diminished lifespan of the components.
I want to upgrade the parts to extend the life and was wondering if coated rotors will help with that? I also plan to use ceramic pads.

I can't see it helping. Any coating you put onto the face of the rotor will be worn away immediately & they're typically very rusty in the areas that don't matter.

If you want to do it for "looks", sure. Clean with some good carburetor cleaner/brake cleaner to remove the shipping oil (you do this anyway on the rotor faces), tape off the faces, use spray paint on the non-face part (probably better use hi-temp engine paint) & wipe off any excess that got onto the faces with more carb/brake cleaner.

Well if your rear rotors now are rusty where the pads hit you really have a problem , probably the calipers are stuck. I didn't know that the brake and clutch fluid were in the same reservoir. Are they? And as for the ceramic pads, If you think 60,000 miles is to short of a life span, ceramic will destroy your rotors in half that mileage. Better stopping , but most of the stopping power is on the front brakes.

Yes, on these cars the clutch master uses the brake master cylinder reservoir for its fluid.
Sometimes when I get in the car in the morning to leave for work after it rained overnight, when I release the parking brake, the pads are "stuck" to the rotor and break loose as I start to move.
I used to have a '95 Ram 1500 where the front pads would "stick" to the rotors after the truck had sat in my driveway a few days. You could see faint pad shaped marks on the rotor when you looked at it.
I'd go through front brakes like crazy on that truck, every 10,000-12,000 miles they'd be shot. I also had a 90 T Bird SC 5 speed at the time and I got 135,000 miles on a set of front pads on it, so I don't think it was my driving style that wore out the Rams brakes so quick.
I worked at Raybestos then and fortunately got an employee discount on parts, Rotors and loaded calipers were around $90. I got pretty good at replacing that trucks front brakes!
Finally I got the idea of replacing the front metallic pads with ceramic, so they would not rust together and stick. That idea worked, my Rams brakes no longer were shot after 10-12,000 miles.
That is why I am thinking of using ceramic pads on the rear of my Dart.

I play classical music to my rotors when in the garage, they seem to last longer.

no classical muzak here, but i blast the non wear surfaces of the rotors with steel shot, then paint with whatever hi temp stuff i have on hand. that really keeps the rust down, but there are a few spots that still get a little bit. i also smear a small bit of hi temp anti-seize where the hub passes through the rotor, as well as cleaning the hub face mounting surface very well, and applying a touch there for good measure. your results may vary.

I have been buyimg rotors from a company on ebay (brake motive i believe, they sell coated and drilled/slotted rotors, they cost me the same with shipping as orielys or autozone. I live in michigan and they rust so bad you cant get them off, so its a big plus for me.

Replaced the rear pads and rotors on my 14 Ram 1500 at 30,000 due to the park brake hanging up due to rust. Painted my new rotors also.

I sprung for the premium coated rotors and was expecting the worst...But they've held up nicely..The rotor hat looks like the day it was installed, this particular set had the cooling fins coated also and even they've held up much better than expected...I'd spend the money again when the time comes...

Put them on my wife's car, they look brand new. 2 years old.

not worth it if its a daily driver, rotors will only last 2 years till they warp or just wear out with grooves..no one cuts rotors anymore..just saying
My rotors and brake drums are chromed on the 71 cuda, no worst for wear, but then it only drives in nice weather...they have been chromed since 1985

Every car can be different depending on how the Master cylinder and the anti lock brake valves work. I had a truck and a car that ate rear brakes and not front. Of course I also have had the opposite. I have a corvette with 75K miles and I changed the brakes and rotors just because of age. Neither pair where at minimums. And I drive it hard on the 3 set of tires. So I am focusing on the wear part of your statement. Replace them. As far as rusting, can't believe the wear area has anything but surface rust until you apply the brakes first time in the day. So coating is the hub area only and that is cosmetics only, no???

FALSE.
I have had 2 sets of rotors for both the front and the rear of my 2007 Ram 1500. When the truck starts to get brake shimmy, I swap in the pair I have on the shelf. I have had all 8 resurfaced twice and they are all still over the minimum thickness. I have 308,000 miles on this truck and have driven a LOT of commute miles.
Find a decent shop that is willing to surface only enough to "true" up the rotor and be a baller.

Certified Pre=Owned vehicles have their rotors cut and throw a new set of pads on, they don't even take the rotors off the car. They have a machine on a cart they park under the car and it cuts it while the mechanic does other things. Gotta love technology. They said that machine costs like $20K, but it's worth it's weight because it's automated, saving time.

i guess i'm the only other one on the planet that cuts them. i have several aluminum "plugs" i fabbed that fit several size center register bores. i first blast the hubs inside and out with steel shot. i then blast between the cooling fins. then, i coat the blasted surfaces with whatever color of high temp, or "quality" paint i have laying around. after the paint dries, i set up the "plug" in the lathe, bolt on the rotor, then cut the bare minimum needed to true the surface, one side at a time. usually, only .003-.008 total material need removed, and runout is only .0005-.001 when finished on my lathe. rotors last a long time and many, many miles. and yes, i have two pair of rotors for my daily driver[s], so i just swap 'em out, then cut the extras at my leisure. time consuming ? yes. economical ? depends if you have to buy medicine and pay doctors and hospitals all the time. i have to stretch every dollar as far as i can. plus, it keeps my machinist skills up to date, and me out of trouble. i also realize every person does not have the equipment, nor the desire to take the time to do this, plus the fact finding a parts store that does this any more is just about non existent.

My experience with shops that turned rotors or drums is, no matter what you bring in it will be finished to the minimum thickness or largest allowable ID. Plus at $15 - $25 per, it isn't much more expensive to just buy new ones.

Now if you can do it yourself more power to you,

If there isn't noticeable wear I many times just use the same rotors.

R.