Sound weird but some time ago I replaced the ps pump, since then I drove the car few times. All fine. However three last runs finished with the engine stalling when I was pulling over and turing right to my garage. The steering wheel was turn full right but leass a couple degrees. Then I checked it once again in garage - engine idling I turn wheels and bam - stall. The assist is soft as it always was, no jerky wheel movements.

I have n o pump to replace and check so I ask your advice.

1970 challenger rt

Does the RPM drop before the stall, or does it cut out?

Does it stall if you remove the power steering belt?

Don't turn right?

Sorry that's the best I've got. Wish I had better. Although is there a chance when turning right the ignition switch is getting tugged on by tight wires or something screwy at the bottom of the column?

That's all I got.

Ya, your probably loosing electrical contact somewhere in the electrical system.
Check all connections everywhere.
Firewall, coil, switch, anything corroded, or pinched.

Its not electric related. Its like ps pump srops the engine. Car drives and turns fine when moving. Only when i turn wheels while car is stationary that happends. I guess relief valve may be stuck and pressure kills pump cause it cant escape ?

Then take the belt off the power steering pump and try it as was suggested previously. Report back.

Pump cavitating and putting stress on the system? Does it do it full left also? Why did you change the pump? May need to adjust the steering box slightly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m3KFaAbCr2Y

Will check later today. Former pump died die to lack of fluid. The box is fine and was working ok with previous pump.

With belt removed no problems at all. I put the belt back and fired her up once again, I turned wheel full cw/ccw and nothing happened - engine idled fine, no signs of any problems, power assist was ok too. I could hear the relief valve when wheels were turned fully to either side.
I'm stuck - the problem was present when engine was hot, today it was like 80F and engine idling for 5 mins.

Weak tuneup or idle too low?

its almost stock 383, kb400, 17" N 15" D, idling at 800 rpm.

If the pump locks up then that is your answer. Bad Pump.

You change the pump and this problem started after y=that, correct?
If so take that bad boy back and get a good one

New facts - its not the p/s pump. Yesterday I drove 100+ miles in 100F heat and the problem emerged gradually as car was hotter. After first 30 miles of 60mph ride @3000 rpm when I stopped at red light the engine was in drive and died after 5 seconds, 20 miles later same thing but stalled right when I stopped. If I managed to put it in N before stop all was fine - no stalling.
So definitely sth with temperature but:

- when stalled, it fired right away, no signs of boiling fuel, hard start.
- fuel level correct
- vacuum stedy in N and in D if engine is not hot (it it is warm nothing wrong happens, only after 15+ minutes of ride in hot conditions)
- swapped chrome box for a blue napa unit - no change
-
When I pulled over and car rested for 20 minutes in sun, in 100F weather the problem was gone but got back in 10 minutes...

I thought maybe transmission got so hot it's starting to seize but could it survive all day ride then? Shifts fine, ATF is ok.

I think its not carb, not fuel, not ign box. May be coil overheated? Coil is blaster 2, dizzy MP magnetic, MP ballast (0.25), chrome box (with blue no change).

Did you check for spark when it stalled?

I had a similar issue and it was my coil, new one fixed it. But it took awhile before the fault lasted long enough to find. Eventually, it stalled and I had no spark till it cooled off. But right now, it's guess work in your case.

Check the gap on your pickup coil.

When it stalls i put it in N and it fires right away. I cant start it in Drive ti heck if theres no spark in drive. In N/P it idles fine.

I adjusted pickup coil gap. It was a bit over .008". Will test it on tuesday. Should be hot.

Coil is a suspect too. What should be the resistance? I get 1,2 ohm on secondary and 11.9k on primary side?

you set yr idle speed and mix after the motor and carb are fully warmed up?

https://forums.msdperformance.com/showthread.php?19205-Blaster-2-Coil-Ohm-Test

looks like 0.7 ohms on the primary and 4.5 kohms on the secondary side,

I would put it in a pot of hot water and let it heat up and measure it then as well.

Good idea with coil. And yes carb adjusted with warm engine. Until engine is very hot everything is fine.

Swapped: coil Box ballast. Problem still exists. Readjusted the carb and gave it 18 deg advance at idle. Marginally better. See video what happends when i stop after cruise. It was not thet hot and engine was struggling to run and it ran but you can hear and see the problem. My friend says it can be aluminium intake ( dp4b) and low rpm plus very hot fuel resulting in fuel boilingninnintake not carb. https://youtu.be/4h_DuQsF_Vk