I need to unblock the 2-3 shift valve. Is it inside the cover with 3 screws or the one on the other side with 5 screws? what should I set the band clearances to (circle track '67 SB 904 shifting normally up thru the gears/spending most time in 3rd). there's an in lb spec then back off a # of turns but I had a problem with that so if you have a clearance amt that might be better (5/16 1/4?) but I could use both for both bands. which filter should I get, the "regular" pale yellow ones or another type? thank you for your time. EDIT its the one with the 3 screws/end valve (gotta love Google).

In a pinch a rear sprag roller works well on both for a feeler gauge

I checked the archives & they said 1/4" (front) & 5/16" (kickdown). there was a thread awhile back on the best filter choice but I failed to write it down.

That would work, best answer is the most clearance you can get on the front and not have 2-3 flash since its a racecar. The more you run, the less heat buildup, more than a sprag roller would not help much if any. Depends on line pressure, lever ratio what shift kit, blocker rod or not, as to how loose front band can be.

its just a stock 904 but I wanted to adj the bands/replace the filter while I am in there unblocking 3rd gear. Are you thinking a bit more than 1/4 on the front one might benefit me?

The front IS the kickdown.

Oh OK, & what filter should I get John?

Factory style Dacron is the best for filtering.

Thank you John

On the rear band it says to get 5/16 between the lever and the top of the spring retainer & I'm confused on that: is this the gap between the underside of the (horizontle) lever down to the rim of the spring retainer? & I noticed today that there was no big accumulator spring, should I add one?

You would have to ask whoever gave you those specs. I always go from the little rod in the center of the cover to the lever front and rear.

Oh OK, I should be measuring the "gap" like a plug gap or any gap & not overcomplicate it. those specs were in the Moparts archives. I just saw 2 utube vids & one said front- 4 turns out from snug/rear 2 turns and another vid said start from snug then back off till driveshaft will turn barely by hand then loose another 1/2 turn & same on the other band ex the shaft will be turned the other way (I've read that (last) procedure before).

Snug with a short wrench works too, once you develop a feel for it, otherwise do it right.

You do realize that the force required to turn the driveshaft by hand will vary with the difference between a 98-pound women and Arnold Schwarzendonker turning the shaft? Whoever dreamed up that procedure is an idiot.

Stick with the "turns out" like the factory did it. 2 turns for front and rear, the exception being the controlled load (large shaft) front servo piston which takes 2 1/2 turns out.

Agreed, this thing is getting out of hand. OK (2) turns out from "snug" on both bands & I'm wondering about too, should I snug em with the oddball socket & 1/4 ratchet or torque the socket to 72 in lbs? & 2nd question, I was over there this AM & I cant for the life of me get the parking pawl to seat the last slight bit (~1/4") into the ext housing so the VB will line up where it needs to be to be mounted. what am I missing there?

Stick your finger into the Park rod opening in the tail and apply pressure to the sprag as you turn the driveshaft, you'll feel the sprag drop into the notch in the support. Then you'll be able to insert the Park rod. Be sure you're inserting the rod into the sprag and not under it.

John I will do & do you want me to start from "snug" or 72 in lb.

Yes.

I will start at 72 in lbs like OE.

I was wondering about that myself as I was lying on my back reaching up to turn the yoke with my left hand which was wet with trans fluid! Before I left I did get the front kickdown band set to 1/4 as I was able to get the 1/4 allen wrench easily up there to set that gap then tighten the locknut on the outside of the case. since it is done I am gonna leave it as is as this is my only progress so far (unless you convince me otherwise). On the rear band I ain't sure how I will be able to set that gap to 5/16 like I originally planned since the lever contacts what it contacts way down inside the raised lip of the retainer so I will do as you directed, I will torque it to 72 then back off (2) turns & call it good. I will note your info on the pawl & hopefully that goes in place. Thanks John

I reached in & pushed the pawl against the wheel but it would not stay put & I also turned the yoke both ways to try to get it to stay to no avail. what is my next move?

It's not supposed to stay, it's spring-loaded. Once you push it in and the output shaft locks, the pawl is free to move out of the way when you insert the Park rod.

Alright I will get after it again but I dont think it's gonna go in from my efforts yesterday. If it wont this time I think I will take the rod off & do without Park which I can get by with on a stock car. But I will give it a concentrated effort tomorrow. I am still missing/not grasping something.

Here's a graphic of the park mechanism, maybe this will be clearer.

Thanks John for the extra attention, I will dig in & see what I can get done. You're the man, as always!