The transfer case does appear to be wet on my recently purchased 1979 Power Wagon. I've had several Dodge trucks, but this is my first 4WD. I see there are gasket kits for transfer cases, but I'm so unfamiliar with them, I don't know if the TC has to come out of the truck to completely re-seal one. Also, I'm wondering if removing front driveshaft for time being would help to stop some of the fluid loss until I solve this. I've taken care of engine and trans leaks, so I am ready to move on to TC.

Thank you.

Larry

Still at it ey? if I recall, that case if still stock, still uses like 30 weight reg eng oil? If you remove front shaft, you'll have to run around with case in "loc". I'm gonna end up with one of them old full timers again, I just know it, and would be a drag if parts-gaskets etc would not be avail from places like Transtar etc.

Where is it wet? Is it a leak or just appear wet. If the truck has been sitting the seal may be dry and might seal better if some miles are put on. If it is between the trans and T/case it maybe a rear trans seal not the t/case. Just some idea's to look at.

there is a U-shape gasket where the xfer bolts to trans adaptor with 7 bolts. most just use silly cone at this spot when the case is removed..I did with no leaks.

yes there is a trans tail shaft seal that keeps fluid in the trans and a housing/seal on the xfer wher the trans output shaft goes...so 2 seals and 1 gasket at the trans/xfer mating.

if you look at the back of the xfer, behind the front shaft, that round cover plate can have the lowest bolt removed to drain the last little bit of fluid from the xfer when changing fluid. it has a fill and drain but leaves about a pint of oil. seems I used to run a 80w90 gear oil in my full time 203.

there is a gasket there on cover plate and on the xfer differential housing along with the rear output shaft.

yes I sad xfer differential.. it lets the front and rear output shafts turn at different speeds, this is the hi&lo function. it will let the rear tires spin with out spinning the front tires or vise-versa. when in HI LOC and LO LOC it locks the front rear drive shafts together so both axle are locked together with the same input speed for more traction...this is why it will drive off a set of jackstands with 1 axle up in the air.

at one time mile marker had a adjusta chain kit and a part time kit for the 203.

I had both which save the case with a worn chain, just adjust the slack up with the front output cover off.

the part time kit went in the xfer differential hosing to replace the spider gear set in there to get a part time function.

I would recommend them kits if you find them. tuff and longevity and well worth the $$.

speedo cable adaptor can leak as it is on the xfer.

best bang for the buck is to buy a hand pail pump and buy gear oil by the 5 gal bucket.

you service the front axle, xfer, rear axle together. I did a lot of swamp water so changed every outing when they turn milky.

Larry FYI I have a LOC-Right locker that replaces the spider gears in the rear 9 1/4 axle for a locking rear axle. this is one of the best things for a 4x4 is a locker rear axle. installs with hand tools and no need to R&R the differential guts. it is in a 3.55 gear 9 1/4 now if you are interested in it.

one thing I had a problem with was my xfer shifter mounting bracket worked loose every so often. made it had to shift from hi/lo

yep you can drive it in HI loc or lo loc with 1 drive shaft front or rear.

I ran around with just the front a while and only had to watch the torque steer using only the front not bad but had to correct under power and off the power slightly.

Mike, thank you for the wealth of information! Very helpful. I like the idea of converting and willing to spend the money for something worthwhile. I'm going to PM you about the 9.25 axle.

I've sealed up the engine and trans nicely and have the truck running great, so I have put some miles on it to identify leaks. I'm cleaning years of [censored] off the transfer case and new wetness is appearing, but still hard to pinpoint exactly where it's coming from. I'm going to have to pressure wash I guess. I've been using a scraper to remove what was coming off engine when it was leaking out a rear freeze plug, oil and trans fluid so that every bit of dirt stuck. There was almost an inch of dirt stuck to transfer case, and in every little nook and cranny. Yep, FSM states 10W-30 engine oil for transfer case.

That sounds a great solution.

get some brake clean and rags,scraper and get it clean.

throw some baby powder around the output seals or where you think it may have a leak. this will slow the leak before windage moves it every where.

most times the wet washed area is clean and oily with gunk built up around the area.

IIRC you can remove the yokes and change the output shaft seals and IIRC you can remove the front output shaft seal housing and replace the gasket. the flat cover for front output has a gasket also.

I will have a look at the old Chilton books I have and see how much is involved on the rear xfer output housing gaskets seals.

cant be 2 hard as I installed the ajustachain kit and the part time kit 1x but never have seen anyone with it or another kit for sale in 30 yrs

been a while since I serviced a good ol 4x4 full time but miss doing it.

IIRC I found some 2 lip seals I used on the front trans pump that kept water out as well as fluid in the trans. I think I used 2 lip seals on the output shafts or axles maybe..? maybe not. I do remember learning about the one for the trans.

I was doing a lot of deep water swamping with 17/40/15 ground hawgs and 6" lift in a 79 RC, man I miss the mud some days but had enough of it now days. cant jump up in a 4x4 now so I be a lowered & tub street freak now.

LARRY..do you know what gear ratio the axles have? cant mix them as they need to match.

most common are the 3.21 3.23 3.55 some time you find a 1/2 ton with a 3.91 some one ordered when new.

find it stamped on the ring gear with the date.

Got under it last night at midnight after work. Had so little time lately but itching to work on it. I see a tag on the rear but tough to read. Need to clean it up. That pumpkin is seeping a bit so I've been planning on popping the cap and cleaning it out and filling it with clean gear oil anyhow, along with front, and hopefully can read tag.

Also, it looks like I have 8.25's. Does that sound right? It's a 150 but 1/2 ton 1979. Also, I did check speedo adapter and it's dry. It connects into a block, that connects into the transfer case. The black had a small crack, but it's dry.

They may have called the 10 bolt rear 8 3/8". It could be that or a 9 1/4" 12 bolt rear. 321 gears were really common on 79's but could be 355's.

I count the bolts tonight. It does not look like a 9 1/4 to me but again, haven't had much underneath time. Thank you.

My 79 warlock II with part-time kit installed, had the 8 3/8 until I punished it too much, kindof started the ring gear teeth a leaning over, then I installed a 9 1/4.

What kind of money am I looking at to do part-time kit (ballpark number)? Is it really necessary if I'm not going to be punishing it, as in a lot of off-roading or beating on it on the road? I just would like to have leak free.

Thank you.

Larry

It's 10 bolt, and I have a picture on my phone. Try and put it on here soon. Not very tech savvy so it takes me a bit to post pics.

My 79 Macho has the 8 3/8" rear. It has a 360, and 3.21 gears. Seems weird that a 4x4 has the smaller differential with such high gears, but that's how it came from factory. I think Randy's Ring & Pinion Web site has picture references to what would be in your truck.
You're on the right track, clean the T-case as good as you can, and keep an eye on it. The leak point(s) will show up.

Thanks 440 Offroader. I'll check Randy's site. Just by sight, I think this looks a bit different than the 8.25 in my Diplomat Police car, so I'm guessing 8 3/8". I have the Diplomat tucked away in my Dad's garage right now, so I don't have the cars side by side to look at though. And in the driving I've done, feels like it could be 3.21 gears.

Thanks again,

Larry.

Sorry Larry, I looked on Randy's site and I guess my truck would have a 8.25" rear end, according to them. My owners manual states 8 3/8 as well as service manuals. My 1975 service manual has 8 1/4. Not sure if the 8 1/4 and the 8 3/8 rear are two different units? I have seen the reference to both... but I'm thinking they're basically the same.

No problem. It seems odd they would build an 8 1/4 and an 8 3/8 being so close in size, but I guess stranger things have happened. I just as soon have it be an 8 1/4. I have had several with high HP engines and they have held up very well, and I have some spare NOS parts. So is the axle housing or cover stamped somewhere, inside or out? I'm going to be popping cap off soon to clean and put fresh fluid.

Thanks,

Larry

IIRC a 8 3/8 is the same as a 8 1/4 just called 2 different names. I call it a 10 bolt. 9 1/4 a 12 bolt. next up is the 12 bolt cover on a D60 very similar to a 9 1/4 cover at first glance.

I would have a look at the ring gear for yr/ratio to see if it has been replaced. a lot could have been worked on since 79.

I have replaced a lot of rear axles as a whole going with what I could find. a 10 bolt is always easy and cheaper to find but now days they are getting hard to locate. a 9 1/4 is hard to find that in good condition or it has/need a rebuild they tend to hold up if the crush sleeve is replaced with a solid spacer.

72-74 RC-4x4 truck would have a 8 3/4 as well. I have one from a 72 w100 with 489-3.91sg (cone) FYI-same hosing/axles as a C-body car.

I have relocated a couple 9 1/4 axles from 73-74 newports to trucks with a perch move same width flange to flange as truck chassis.

so when looking for a mopar rear axle I look at ALL of them.

just installed a 67 polara 8 3/4 in my stepside to tuck 10 rims and have the A-body 8 3/4 in the 88-440 truck tucking 12" rims.

I believe my 10 bolt will hold up with what I have planned (no towing or beating on it).

What I am most concerned with is having the Transfer Case reliable and sealed up. Last night I discovered I'm still losing transmission fluid. I know it's not from shaft seal, and shouldn't be pan gasket, both have been replaced. I'm beginning to think I'm going to have to drop the transmission.

no..not yet. I would wager it is the o-ring on the rear servo pin leaking MAKING you think pan gasket.

brake clean and baby powder will tell the tale.

I have brake cleaned it well and rtv the end of the shaft up and let cure. 50/50 chance it seals.

might as well run a wrench on all of the tail housing adaptor to trans housing bolts & adaptor to xfer bolts.

the 727 tailhousing adaptor has a paper gasket but I have found the o-ring on the servo pin to be the most common leak as it is always over looked on a rebuild.

check the NSS plug, the coating on the washer will wear and leak on top of the pan rail also.

have you ruled out the gear selector shaft and PTK shaft seal? again brake clean and baby powder there area this leak shows up sitting over night as well as when driving. so run to temp/clean/let sit over night.

LARRY PM me you # and I will text you a couple pics pointing out the spots I refer to. (pivot pin) then you can pin point them under your truck.

I have run thru a couple cans of brake clean. I will continue to clean it up. So much crud built up from years of neglect. The leaking freeze plug at rear of engine (that I replaced as soon as I got truck) for years that kept everything underneath wet, collected tons of dirt, along with the other leaking fluids.

Thanks Mike. Sending my number now.

you can use some purple cleaner and scrub brush then rinse with water save the brake clean to remove the oil film when done.

Thanks. I have been using some Simple Green too, along with a paint scraper, it's just hard to get on top and in the little nooks and crannies. I think bottom line is I'm going to have to pressure clean the layers of neglect away.

LOL! yep been there. after a day of mudding in the swamps I used to lay under mine with a hose and brass 1/4" cone nozzle to wash all the mud out of the frame and off the drivetrain. be sure to wear a dive mask or goggles under there pressure washing.

I used a steam cleaner when I had the trans/range box on a trans jack and the xfer got it while on a floor jack.

it is a little bit of work to R&R the trans/xfer but a good HD trans jack along with a floor jack & solid slab to work on it can be done in a day.

I always hated R&R of the xfer shifter and mount bracket and it was always HEAVY WORK!

Obviously, the previous owner skipped the R&R but not the off roading fun!