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1.out of the box how do they compare to a ported 906 head?

2.can you buy them un assembled?

3.is anyone using them and whats the noticed difference from what you had?

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I have not used mine yet, I have seen posts on here from people who have had them flowed and they flowed better than the professionally ported big valve 906 heads that I have had flowed and used on my car and other motors that I have built and dyno tested for customers IHTHs Call 440source for question # 2 I wanted 3 sets of the bare castings and ended up with one set of the complete heads, I ended up having to cancel the other sets due to the slowing of the economy and so on. The so on is that I ended up buying a set of ported B1 from Koffels and a set of 440-1 from another member on here you know the old adage "go big or go home"

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You cannot buy them unassembled. If you want to build anything really healthy you are going to have to buy new springs , retainers and locks. I did not want to waste money on parts I would never use.....That is why I did not buy them.

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This is the answer you get from the people that don't own a pair and just want to stir up crap.
Do a search on the heads and you will find hundreds of opinions.
I own a pair of the first that was made.I have beat the snot out of them for 1 season. I gained .2 to .35 in the 1/8th mile over a pair of very good ported 915s.No other changes just the heads.I had to use roller springs so the stock retainers and springs had to be replaced but there was nothing wrong with them.

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You cannot buy them unassembled. If you want to build anything really healthy you are going to have to buy new springs , retainers and locks. I did not want to waste money on parts I would never use.....That is why I did not buy them.

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This is the answer you get from the people that don't own a pair and just want to stir up crap.
Do a search on the heads and you will find hundreds of opinions.
I own a pair of the first that was made.I have beat the snot out of them for 1 season. I gained .2 to .35 in the 1/8th mile over a pair of very good ported 915s.No other changes just the heads.I had to use roller springs so the stock retainers and springs had to be replaced but there was nothing wrong with them.

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You cannot buy them unassembled. If you want to build anything really healthy you are going to have to buy new springs , retainers and locks. I did not want to waste money on parts I would never use.....That is why I did not buy them.

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This is the answer you get from the people that don't own a pair and just want to stir up crap.
Do a search on the heads and you will find hundreds of opinions.
I own a pair of the first that was made.I have beat the snot out of them for 1 season. I gained .2 to .35 in the 1/8th mile over a pair of very good ported 915s.No other changes just the heads.I had to use roller springs so the stock retainers and springs had to be replaced but there was nothing wrong with them.

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You cannot buy them unassembled. If you want to build anything really healthy you are going to have to buy new springs , retainers and locks. I did not want to waste money on parts I would never use.....That is why I did not buy them.

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This is the answer you get from the people that don't own a pair and just want to stir up crap.
Do a search on the heads and you will find hundreds of opinions.
I own a pair of the first that was made.I have beat the snot out of them for 1 season. I gained .2 to .35 in the 1/8th mile over a pair of very good ported 915s.No other changes just the heads.I had to use roller springs so the stock retainers and springs had to be replaced but there was nothing wrong with them.

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I have to disagree. in this case, it was not a type post..it had useful info and he simply explained why he did'nt choose to buy them..and I think its a good reason, IMHO.

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DRAM I read the if you want to build anything healthy you would need to change the springs and retainers and locks. Well DAH that is a no brainer and aplys to all the out of box heads.I am not talking about the high dollar B1s or Indys.I wonder what Rustbucket bought instead?He didn't say.
I will put it to you this way .If I had a prety heathy motor that had a cam that had a lift of lets say .540 I would take the stealth heads out of the box and bolt them on.I would put alot of machine shops out of buiness.

Everyone needs to stop and think before jumping a idea.
It should be a moparts rule that if you post on any product either bad or good you first must own that product and used it personly.This would stop all the mopar gods that sit in there own little world and make judgement calls on products they have never used.BTW That was not pointed at you Dram.I see that you have used them. You said a mouth full when you said they ALL have pro's and con's.

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There is a guy here that had a BRAND NEW set crack and break off an entire cylinder. This is no joke. They did send him a new head and told him due to the way the cast/machine these heads to only torque them to 50 ft/lbs. This is a true story. I'll try and get pictures of the one that broke, a complete, cylinder off.

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There is a guy here that had a BRAND NEW set crack and break off an entire cylinder. This is no joke. They did send him a new head and told him due to the way the cast/machine these heads to only torque them to 50 ft/lbs. This is a true story. I'll try and get pictures of the one that broke, a complete, cylinder off.

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Wha??? Ok I might be wrong but I want to be the first to call BS!

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Be sure to check a couple of things...
1. If one is using pushrod with a bigger diameter than 5/16" you likely will have to mill out the hole for clearance.
2. If using a high lift cam (>0.500) one should check for valve spring windup
3. If using high ratio rockers be sure to check clearance for the rockers

Overall the heads look pretty good and the price is rite..
But if one is looking to put these into a hipo track car with certain exotic valve train components, it is strongly urged that a complete checkout be done by an experienced machinist for the above points..

Just my $0.02..

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FYI on my Stealth heads (first run) I had good clearance on the pushrod holes with 3/8 rods and a .540 lift cam. I also upgraded the locks and retainers and used the existing springs and added a set of Mopar perf inner springs for my hyd roller.

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very true, too many on Moparts think you can just bolt the heads on and go Edelbrock, Indy, Stealth...then if they have an issue they blame the mfg.

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No, too many poorly made aftermarket parts have made you think you should have to modify a part you just paid thousands of dollars for, and not be able to blame them if it's wrong...

I'm not saying your wrong because I check everything, but if I find something wrong, you can bet the manufacture is going to fix it, not me...

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There is a guy here that had a BRAND NEW set crack and break off an entire cylinder. This is no joke. They did send him a new head and told him due to the way the cast/machine these heads to only torque them to 50 ft/lbs. This is a true story. I'll try and get pictures of the one that broke, a complete, cylinder off.

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Wha??? Ok I might be wrong but I want to be the first to call BS!

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The new Max torque is 40 ft/lbs, not 50!

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There is a guy here that had a BRAND NEW set crack and break off an entire cylinder. This is no joke. They did send him a new head and told him due to the way the cast/machine these heads to only torque them to 50 ft/lbs. This is a true story. I'll try and get pictures of the one that broke, a complete, cylinder off.

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Wha??? Ok I might be wrong but I want to be the first to call BS!

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The new Max torque is 40 ft/lbs, not 50!

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You cannot buy them unassembled. If you want to build anything really healthy you are going to have to buy new springs , retainers and locks. I did not want to waste money on parts I would never use.....That is why I did not buy them.

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This is the answer you get from the people that don't own a pair and just want to stir up crap.
Do a search on the heads and you will find hundreds of opinions.
I own a pair of the first that was made.I have beat the snot out of them for 1 season. I gained .2 to .35 in the 1/8th mile over a pair of very good ported 915s.No other changes just the heads.I had to use roller springs so the stock retainers and springs had to be replaced but there was nothing wrong with them.

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DRAM I read the if you want to build anything healthy you would need to change the springs and retainers and locks. Well DAH that is a no brainer and aplys to all the out of box heads.I am not talking about the high dollar B1s or Indys.I wonder what Rustbucket bought instead?He didn't say.
I will put it to you this way .If I had a prety heathy motor that had a cam that had a lift of lets say .540 I would take the stealth heads out of the box and bolt them on.I would put alot of machine shops out of buiness.

Everyone needs to stop and think before jumping a idea.
It should be a moparts rule that if you post on any product either bad or good you first must own that product and used it personly.This would stop all the mopar gods that sit in there own little world and make judgement calls on products they have never used.BTW That was not pointed at you Dram.I see that you have used them. You said a mouth full when you said they ALL have pro's and con's.

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DRAM I read the if you want to build anything healthy you would need to change the springs and retainers and locks. Well DAH that is a no brainer and aplys to all the out of box heads.I am not talking about the high dollar B1s or Indys.I wonder what Rustbucket bought instead?He didn't say.
I will put it to you this way .If I had a prety heathy motor that had a cam that had a lift of lets say .540 I would take the stealth heads out of the box and bolt them on.I would put alot of machine shops out of buiness.

Everyone needs to stop and think before jumping a idea.
It should be a moparts rule that if you post on any product either bad or good you first must own that product and used it personly.This would stop all the mopar gods that sit in there own little world and make judgement calls on products they have never used.BTW That was not pointed at you Dram.I see that you have used them. You said a mouth full when you said they ALL have pro's and con's.

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Again did you read the gentlemans question??? "Can you buy Stealth heads bare?" I answered from first hand experience from calling 440 source....... For my application those parts would be basically tossed aside. I actually did call tobuy them and would own them if they were sold bare. I think this makes me certified to answer his question as to whether they can be bought bare or not.

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If one wants bare heads, close to that price range, the choice is then edelbrocks. Of course, the bare heads will still cost more than the complete stealths, and won't look like a stock head. So...

Those heads are meant for a certain market. And are offered only one way to take advantage of the economies of scale. Variety causes extra labor which in turn causes additonal cost. As said by previous posters, stealth heads aren't, and never were, meant for all out builds. Just a solid stock looking replacement for ported stockers that would work well on a mild build.

FWIW, I used the springs that came on my stealths with the .545 lift comp xe275hl cam in the 426. With only 9.6 cr, it makes 470hp.

I replaced the springs, retainers, locks on my edelbrocks when I went to a .630 roller cam in the coronet motor.

I had to have two "too tight" guides re-done, as well as the valve job on the edelbrocks on the challenger motor.

I also had the valve job re-done, along with the porting work, on the edelbrock victor max wedge head on the new coronet motor.

I'm just say'in.....

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rustbucket a couple of questions.
What did you end up buying and the cost of the bare heads?
What did you pay to have the machine work done to just stock form out of the box Stealth head.
Cost of the valves?
Cost of the springs-retainers - locks- cups

I gess my point is that you said that you didn't need to buy parts that you would not use.Well even if you throw the springs out and all the retainers and locks your still ahead of the game by buying Stealth heads at $950.

Motors are not rocket science and most of us farmers do not need to tweek every little part to get that .00001 more ET.I look at it this way. If I buy a Honda car you will not see me tearing it apart just to make sure the the guy that assembled it did his job right.I personaly think that most aftermarket parts would work fine for 70% of the guys that are building a healthy motor without tweeking.We read on here where a guy that has a nine second car and he tweeked the heads and change this and that and all of the sudden we need to do that to our 13 second car.
I find that the differance between my slow 10.6 car and his 9 second car is thousands of dollars.When I line up to race him there is no differance.

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wow i hesitated when posting this question cuz i knew this would blow up.theres so much here i cant find an answer.yet
i here ya guys loud and clear.but they got to be better than stock stuff and for 900 bucks you cant complain,cheapest aluminum head out right?its really hard to make a decision.

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