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Re: B1 originals vs -1's 345cc flow numbers?
[Re: sgcuda]
#2397340
11/02/17 03:06 PM
11/02/17 03:06 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,013
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,013
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
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I have followed this post and the other one on bore and stroke, and have opinions based on how I went wrong on my car. First mistake was selling a 4.5 crank and using a 4.15 stroke crank. Second mistake was in not buying the best flowing heads I could afford. I went with 440-1 ported by one of the best head porters in the Midwest, dynoed 847 hp. Had I bit the bullet and bought B1Mc heads, it would have made over 1,000 hp and I may have been able to use a somewhat friendly cam that wouldn't kill parts trying to make power, which is what happened running the 440-1 heads. So IMHO go big on cubes and head flow, use a little less rpm, and a parts friendly cam.
Last edited by gregsdart; 11/02/17 03:08 PM.
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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Re: B1 originals vs -1's 345cc flow numbers?
[Re: gregsdart]
#2397351
11/02/17 03:18 PM
11/02/17 03:18 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,380
Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,380
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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 High RPM is hard on parts. Doesn't cost a bit more to go big on cubes once you have a good block. Big cubic inch motor w/ big heads doesn't need to work hard to make reasonable power. You can push the envelope w/ anything, but overbuild it for what you want and you'll end up w/ a lot less maintenance.
CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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Re: B1 originals vs -1's 345cc flow numbers?
[Re: sgcuda]
#2397426
11/02/17 05:58 PM
11/02/17 05:58 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,512
So. Burlington, Vt.
fast68plymouth
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,512
So. Burlington, Vt.
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.......go big on cubes and head flow, use a little less rpm, and a parts friendly cam. When possible, that's my preference as well.
68 Satellite, 383 with stock 906’s, 3550lbs, 11.18@123
Dealer for Comp Cams/Indy Heads
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Re: B1 originals vs -1's 345cc flow numbers?
[Re: sgcuda]
#2397451
11/02/17 07:07 PM
11/02/17 07:07 PM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,865
MI, usa
dvw
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,865
MI, usa
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Agreed. My 572 combo is maintenance friendly, currently 200 passes with nothing but lash adjustment and oil changes. It is due for a valve spring check. Will run 9.1x in 3000 DA at 3350lbs. This -1 Indys, 285/292,.800 cam, stock Eddy carbs, and an Indy 440-25 intake. Any more power would require better stuff and more the current 7000 shift points, thus more maintenance.
Doug
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Re: B1 originals vs -1's 345cc flow numbers?
[Re: gregsdart]
#2397600
11/02/17 11:58 PM
11/02/17 11:58 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243
Charlotte, North Carolina
sgcuda
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243
Charlotte, North Carolina
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I have followed this post and the other one on bore and stroke, and have opinions based on how I went wrong on my car. First mistake was selling a 4.5 crank and using a 4.15 stroke crank. Second mistake was in not buying the best flowing heads I could afford. I went with 440-1 ported by one of the best head porters in the Midwest, dynoed 847 hp. Had I bit the bullet and bought B1Mc heads, it would have made over 1,000 hp and I may have been able to use a somewhat friendly cam that wouldn't kill parts trying to make power, which is what happened running the 440-1 heads. So IMHO go big on cubes and head flow, use a little less rpm, and a parts friendly cam. Greg: I think you're right. I will probably go with a 4.500 crank, but may go bigger. My Indy block seems to have strained a bit as a sprayed 605, but maybe a N/A 605 will let the cylinder sleeves hold up better? Bores are WAY out of round, maybe just worn out and not taken care of. Some of the bores measure 4.570" and not evenly around, either. And yes, I think I will look for either a used set of B1MC heads or even bite the bullet and buy a new set late spring.
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Re: B1 originals vs -1's 345cc flow numbers?
[Re: sgcuda]
#2397853
11/03/17 12:49 PM
11/03/17 12:49 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,512
So. Burlington, Vt.
fast68plymouth
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,512
So. Burlington, Vt.
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He's not joking.
I'd use different heads........ But I'm sure you could get to 1000hp for way less $$$ than the plan you just outlined.
68 Satellite, 383 with stock 906’s, 3550lbs, 11.18@123
Dealer for Comp Cams/Indy Heads
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Re: B1 originals vs -1's 345cc flow numbers?
[Re: sgcuda]
#2398047
11/03/17 05:40 PM
11/03/17 05:40 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243
Charlotte, North Carolina
sgcuda
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243
Charlotte, North Carolina
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No turbo's. No nitrous.
1) I'm planning on running Nostalgia Pro Stock class
2) Except for superchargers, I'm going to run N/A
3) That stuff is for the guys with Fords and Chevys that struggle to make power, anyway
[image][/image]
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Re: B1 originals vs -1's 345cc flow numbers?
[Re: sgcuda]
#2398061
11/03/17 06:04 PM
11/03/17 06:04 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,512
So. Burlington, Vt.
fast68plymouth
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,512
So. Burlington, Vt.
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A procharger would make 1000hp much easier to get....... But that set up isn't cheap either.
68 Satellite, 383 with stock 906’s, 3550lbs, 11.18@123
Dealer for Comp Cams/Indy Heads
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Re: B1 originals vs -1's 345cc flow numbers?
[Re: sgcuda]
#2398340
11/04/17 11:34 AM
11/04/17 11:34 AM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243
Charlotte, North Carolina
sgcuda
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243
Charlotte, North Carolina
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The 600 series head is an amazing head, but too rich for my pockets. Plus, you need a different bore spacing from what I already have. Guess I'm limited to 440-1, 572-13 or B1 heads. Not that I would exactly call that "Limited". On the B1 original or MC heads, is there any issues if I stay with shaft style rockers? I know that the paired rockers are a superior and preferred setup, but there are a lot of used B1 heads out there for sale with T&D shaft rockers. I don't plan on jumping too fast for the first set I see, but if I found a set of MC's with shaft rockers, would that be a decent setup?
[image][/image]
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Funny guy 
