I am putting studs in my heads for the rocker arm shafts. Should be torqued in or just hand tight. Thought I had read or heard somewhere not to bottom them out. As it could create a problem. Thanks in advance for your replies. Jim

I have mine finger tight but a half turn out is not a bad thing.

Hand snug in to make sure they go in the whole way then 1/2 a turn (at least) or so out. That way you torque against the threads.

Thanks guys for your quick replies. Jim

I believe the T&D stuff I have wants XX inch pounds on the studs?

Mr P body shared a tip once about dropping a ball bearing in the hole so the stud has something to stop against
Gus

Think about how most studs are made with coarse threads on the bottom and fine thread on the torque side (usually) and it becomes easier to understand. In torquing we are pulling against the threads to the desiired stretch of the stud. The fine thread gives us better finer touch and better clamping force. At least that's what my Millwright training taught me.

Hi Jim,

What rockers are you using and what length studs?

We tried to use studs on Clark's car to hold down the Erson shafts and could not find any the right length.

Thanks!
Bill

Hi Bill,

MP rockers using 3" studs on 4 of them and one 2 1/2". Needed the short one under the breather cap baffle. Could probably have gotten by with all 2 1/2" ones. I got the 12 point nuts from ARP via Summit.

SORRY! re-read the reply.. Here is my argument against tightening studs...
If you "tighten" studs, you are only adding unnecessary stress to the parent material.
Whatever stress you put on the threads before final assembly torque gets added to load stress on the parent material.
Torque ratings of studs are guidelines to assure proper stretch of the stud for fastener retaining... To little and nuts will loosen/ to tight and you will stretch/break studs or damage threads. Being that studs are effectively a gear reduction device(already loading parent material more than a bolt torqued to the same LB/ft) you are only adding undue stress to the parent material without any benefit of fastener retaining effect.
The bearing under the stud trick is a great solution for installing studs with Loctite. Drop in a bearing ball, apply the Loctite, finger tighten the stud to displace the Loctite to the non-load side of the threads. This gives direct contact of stud to parent material without "squishing" Loctite when torquing.

Who said I tighten the studs. You better reread it

Yep look at my post edited with minor apology! My badd

Thanks Jim,
I can't remember what size we tried but it seems like if the stud was long enough to get a thread started on it, the nut would bottom out on the end of the threads before it would tighten. I don't know what would be different about the Ersons.

How long are your valves?

Bill

^^^ all good info, I got an edumacation today (& I have a studded 360). thank you!

On the finger tight statement. just using your finger to thread in a stud to " finger tight " doesn't mean it is set to the proper depth in the hole. Most studs have a hex key hole in the end . A allen wrench should be used to thread in the stud to bottom, then 1/2 turn back. We all should remember that all readers of there post are not seasoned engine builders.

Thanks Jim,
I can't remember what size we tried but it seems like if the stud was long enough to get a thread started on it, the nut would bottom out on the end of the threads before it would tighten. I don't know what would be different about the Ersons.

How long are your valves?

Bill

Bill, I don't remember the exact valve stem length. Heads are setup 2" from spring seat to bottom of the retainer.

If you need a wrench of any sort to run in a stud, you are either in need of hole cleaning/repair or you have the wrong studs.
The hex head stud is a "recent" (I'm old) development to aid in removal of studs... not for installation.
Not even a bottoming tap will allow a quality stud to bottom it's tip in a hole. What you are feeling as resistance is the final thread taper cut which you do not want to be engaged in when tourqing the stud. Take my free advice... It has value.

OK, should I drop the ball bearing in there?