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#2389073 - 10/17/17 10:12 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: MoonshineMattK]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23489
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By MoonshineMattK
I'm enjoying your threads. Thanks for taking the time to post and upload pics


No problem, glad you are enjoying the thread. I'm working a few hours a day on the Duster so it just keeps moving along. The work isn't going super fast but I'm making progress every day.

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#2391367 - 10/22/17 05:08 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23489
Loc: Oregon
Here are a couple more shots of the rear shock plates. I put the lower eye bolt in a location that gave me more than an inch of extension left at full droop and roughly 2.5 inches of compression at ride height. This should be close enough for now and I can tweak it once I get the car running.


Attachments
DSC_1587 (Large).JPG

DSC_1588 (Large).JPG



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#2391377 - 10/22/17 05:17 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
dartman366 Offline


Registered: 01/18/04
Posts: 12955
Loc: Mt. Vernon, Ohio
Some pretty sharp looking brackets, are those laser cut and cnc formed? we have those machines where I work and they do an awesome job and spot on accurate.
_________________________
Light travels faster than the speed of sound,,,this is why some people seem bright untill you hear them speak.

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#2391378 - 10/22/17 05:17 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Superfreak Offline
master

Registered: 11/08/08
Posts: 3499
Loc: the great white north
Andy,

do you still have the Hemi billet timing covers?

Thanks
_________________________
"Too much to do and not enough time to do it"

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#2391485 - 10/22/17 08:26 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: dartman366]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23489
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By dartman366
Some pretty sharp looking brackets, are those laser cut and cnc formed? we have those machines where I work and they do an awesome job and spot on accurate.


I get all of my stuff laser cut but I bend on a manual brake. I don't have the money to afford a CNC brake press.

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#2391486 - 10/22/17 08:26 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Superfreak]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23489
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By Superfreak
Andy,

do you still have the Hemi billet timing covers?

Thanks


Yes, standard product on the shelf. Mancini Racing or Hughes Engines should be able to get you one

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#2391533 - 10/22/17 09:33 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Saskabusa Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 12/20/05
Posts: 249
Loc: Scatchamatoon
Are you going to reinforce the upper mount?
_________________________
1974 Roadrunner

1967 Charger

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#2391619 - 10/23/17 01:32 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Dave Hall Offline
pro stock

Registered: 01/21/08
Posts: 1505
Loc: Cotati, CA
LPW makes some nice stuff!

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#2392671 - 10/24/17 10:15 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23489
Loc: Oregon
Second article is posted on the Hot Rod website: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/the-dustb...-marker-lights/

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#2401033 - 11/09/17 01:15 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23489
Loc: Oregon
The fenderwells are cut out on this car for headers so I made a small patch panel to hold the coils. Not sure if I'm going this way or not but I might. It seems like it will work.

I also made a two piece cover for the heater hole. That way I could put a grommet in it and hold the bundle of cables for the EFI box. This seems like it will tidy things up and cover up the big hole in the firewall at the same time.


Attachments
DSC_1611 (Large).JPG

DSC_1612 (Large).JPG



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#2401051 - 11/09/17 02:04 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Dave Hall Offline
pro stock

Registered: 01/21/08
Posts: 1505
Loc: Cotati, CA
Looks great Andy! Just a thought. You might want those coils mounted low as most BB's have the plug wires happier going from the bottom up.

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#2401079 - 11/09/17 03:01 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23489
Loc: Oregon
Yeah I thought about putting them on the frame rail but there are problems with that also. I'm going to wait until after I get some headers to make a final decision on coil mounting.

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#2406011 - 11/19/17 03:12 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23489
Loc: Oregon
Headers are here from TTI. Not sure these suckers are going to fit! This is what TTI wanted me to run on the car so I'll see if I can get them on there.


Attachments
DSC_1651 (Large).JPG



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#2406300 - 11/20/17 09:48 AM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
ccdave Offline
The Ultimate

Registered: 01/22/03
Posts: 1707
Loc: Mopar Country, Mi
Great idea fender mounting those coil packs up

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#2406525 - 11/20/17 06:50 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Dart451]
Sport440 Offline
master

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 6429
Loc: Canton, Ohio
Originally Posted By Dart451
Originally Posted By AndyF
I need to

I'll need turn signals but maybe I need to mount up an old time box on the column. I suppose you can still buy those old turn signal switch boxes.


Check out

American Autowire 500148 Turn Signal Toggle Switch

Thats what I used for my car. Didn't want the old turn signal box switch on side of the column



Thanks for that tip, 27$ at summit. Could mount the switch on the column as well

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#2411889 - 12/01/17 03:07 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Dave Hall]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23489
Loc: Oregon
Originally Posted By Dave Hall
Looks great Andy! Just a thought. You might want those coils mounted low as most BB's have the plug wires happier going from the bottom up.


I'm mocking up the coil packs with the TTi headers and for the passenger side it looks like the cleanest solution appears to be if I mount the coils on the valve cover and then loop short plug wires down between the tubes.

The driver side might not be as simple........


Attachments
DSC_1686 (Large).JPG



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#2411903 - 12/01/17 03:57 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Dave Hall Offline
pro stock

Registered: 01/21/08
Posts: 1505
Loc: Cotati, CA
Might be a pain to check lash. You could mount the packs on that huge motor plate and maybe profile the plate to the coils? grin I have those headers on a low deck A-body and they are no fun. Makes things ultra difficult to work on. The starter was the least of it. Save yourself some time and keep the engine and trans. bolted up before you install in the car then let the heartache begin. wrench I couldn't drop the motor in from the top with the headers on it on mine. I think I left the drivers side loose and married the pass. side as it went in. Your cut out core support may allow you to get lucky there. luck

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#2411935 - 12/01/17 05:18 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
AndyF Offline
Too Many Posts

Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 23489
Loc: Oregon
Yeah I can see that these headers will be painful for any sort of maintenance. Replacing the starter is probably a half day job with these headers in the way. And it looks like pulling the trans out of the car will require moving the headers out of the way.

I'll keep looking at different options for the coil packs but right now I'm leaning towards putting them on the valve covers. Pulling the covers isn't that bad, just unclick the connectors and the plug wires and then pull the cover off. The coils come with the cover so you don't have to mess with them.

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#2411941 - 12/01/17 05:24 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
Dave Hall Offline
pro stock

Registered: 01/21/08
Posts: 1505
Loc: Cotati, CA
I don't know Andy? That #1 exhaust pipe isn't going to cooperate too well with the wires on that side...

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#2411991 - 12/01/17 07:03 PM Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF]
nss guy Offline
pro stock

Registered: 09/21/06
Posts: 1226
Loc: central ohio
Originally Posted By AndyF
Yeah I can see that these headers will be painful for any sort of maintenance. Replacing the starter is probably a half day job with these headers in the way. And it looks like pulling the trans out of the car will require moving the headers out of the way.

I'll keep looking at different options for the coil packs but right now I'm leaning towards putting them on the valve covers. Pulling the covers isn't that bad, just unclick the connectors and the plug wires and then pull the cover off. The coils come with the cover so you don't have to mess with them.


I suggest removing the torsion bars for the install, no big deal, keep the bars lubed up for easy removal by hand. Make a pigtail battery cable connection for starter so you can have it wired to starter when installing headers. I use studs on the outer bolt holes for the headers and loosen up all bolts and can get tranny out without completely removing headers.


Edited by nss guy (12/01/17 07:06 PM)

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