Re: Flat tappet break in oil
[Re: pullandrag]
#2339683
07/19/17 01:15 PM
07/19/17 01:15 PM
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crabman173
Unregistered
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crabman173
Unregistered
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I would say fire it up --only busted one pin in 35 years and who knows why so that is a no worry deal-- I love the Lucas break in oil available in 30 wt or 20w50 it is cheap and it is over 3000 PPM of the good stuff I have had zero failures since using it OR use Lucas additive in non detergent 30 weight VR-1 is Ok but only around 1200PPM IIRC stuff changes all the time so Light it up
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Re: Flat tappet break in oil
[Re: ]
#2339685
07/19/17 01:17 PM
07/19/17 01:17 PM
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 4,689 Wichita
GY3
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 4,689
Wichita
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Comp flat tappet?
Good luck with that...
'63 Dodge 330 11.19 @ 121 mph Pump gas, n/a, through the mufflers on street tires with 3.54's. 3,600 lbs. 10.01 @ 133mph with a 250 shot of nitrous an a splash of race gas. 1.36 60 ft. 3,700 lbs.
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Re: Flat tappet break in oil
[Re: pullandrag]
#2339696
07/19/17 01:41 PM
07/19/17 01:41 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,894 Florida
Locomotion
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,894
Florida
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Oil with less viscosity circulates faster, which is what you want, whether it be for initial start-up or after sitting a while. Amsoil has their own break-in oil - Amsoil 30w Break-In Oil It's a pain, but you can always put weaker valve springs in for the break-in period.
Last edited by Locomotion; 07/19/17 01:42 PM.
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Re: Flat tappet break in oil
[Re: pullandrag]
#2339707
07/19/17 01:57 PM
07/19/17 01:57 PM
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,621 Fulton County, PA
CMcAllister
Mr. Helpful
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Mr. Helpful
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,621
Fulton County, PA
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Drain the VR1 and use a good break in oil. Bill the customer for it. Will you be the dumb a$$ if the cam goes flat? Protect yourself. You just can't be a victim of guys trying to save $5.
Last edited by CMcAllister; 07/19/17 01:59 PM.
If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
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Re: Flat tappet break in oil
[Re: pullandrag]
#2339728
07/19/17 02:26 PM
07/19/17 02:26 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,880 S.E. Michigan
ZIPPY
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,880
S.E. Michigan
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20w50 is very commonly used in the field, but if you aren't confident in it or it seems wrong, if you are calling the shots then definitely change to whatever you deem appropriate.
Rich H.
Esse Quam Videri
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Re: Flat tappet break in oil
[Re: pullandrag]
#2339740
07/19/17 02:54 PM
07/19/17 02:54 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,544 Syracuse,NY
CompWedgeEngines
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,544
Syracuse,NY
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For break in, go with a lighter break in oil, as Myron also mentions. I now use Schaeffers break in oil ( I buy it in 5 gallons buckets), along with Gibbs Driven, but used a lot of Brad Penn in the past.I know there will be 5,000 people on here touting "you dont need no stinkin break in oils and exotic this, and expensive that".Do yourself a favor. Use a break in oil, and remove the inner springs, or use light springs if that option exists.
Last edited by CompWedgeEngines; 07/19/17 02:55 PM.
RIP Monte Smith
Your work is a reflection of yourself, autograph it with quality.
WD for Diamond Pistons,Sidewinder cylinder heads, Wiseco, K1 rods and cranks,BAM lifters, Morel lifters, Molnar Technologies, Harland Sharp, Pro Gear, Cometic, King Engine Bearings and many others.
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Re: Flat tappet break in oil
[Re: pullandrag]
#2339805
07/19/17 04:18 PM
07/19/17 04:18 PM
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Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 35 Canada
Criterion
member
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member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 35
Canada
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It's a bit off topic but that cam dowel isn't what transfers drive torque through the timing set -- it's only there for locating purposes. The friction between the cam face and timing gear, when the cam bolt is torqued correctly, is what prevents slip and subsequent shearing of that pin. A grade 8 7/16 UNC bolt (what the single bolt cam uses IIRC) can safely produce 9,568 pounds of clamping load.
Last edited by Criterion; 07/19/17 04:19 PM.
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Re: Flat tappet break in oil
[Re: CompWedgeEngines]
#2339867
07/19/17 05:47 PM
07/19/17 05:47 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,570 Motor City
6PKRTSE
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master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,570
Motor City
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For break in, go with a lighter break in oil, as Myron also mentions. I now use Schaeffers break in oil ( I buy it in 5 gallons buckets), along with Gibbs Driven, but used a lot of Brad Penn in the past.I know there will be 5,000 people on here touting "you dont need no stinkin break in oils and exotic this, and expensive that".Do yourself a favor. Use a break in oil, and remove the inner springs, or use light springs if that option exists. I agree & do all of the same with my engines.
1963 Belvedere 440 Max Wedge Tribute 1970 Charger R/T S.E. 440 Six Pack 1970 Challenger R/T, 528 Hemi 1970 Charger 500 S.E. 440 4 BBL 1970 Plymouth Road Runner 383 1974 Chrysler New Yorker 440 1996 2500 RAM 488 V-10 4X4 2004 3500 Dually Cummins 4x4 2012 Challenger R/T Classic.
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Re: Flat tappet break in oil
[Re: pullandrag]
#2340145
07/20/17 02:30 AM
07/20/17 02:30 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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The biggest thing is the bearing clearances.. so if they are on the tighter side then run thinner oil... dont burn your brain out on this.. just use break in oil
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Re: Flat tappet break in oil
[Re: pullandrag]
#2340369
07/20/17 02:56 PM
07/20/17 02:56 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,544 Syracuse,NY
CompWedgeEngines
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,544
Syracuse,NY
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Everyone can do whatever they wish, and breaking in 1 engine, versus hundreds of engines will give you a totally different perspective, and especially engines of every variety and usage. You want to see stuff break? Try some boat engines, some truck pullers, and especially high RPM dirt track engines. Your eyes will open.Anyhow, here is a quick simple video, which has some valuable information. Most people like to just throw the term " high zinc" , or XXX PPM of zinc around, because thats what the oil companies with marketing budgets do.There is SOOOO much more to oil than that. I am in no way an oil expert, but I do pay attention, have years of running all sorts of engines, and have the fortunate insight into some private testing, that beats up oils every which way from Sunday.Lake and Driven , do a LOT of testing, and they engineer their products for every type of scenario. Its way more about using the right product for the application, than just a " favorite" marketed brand.That doesnt mean some of the common brands are bad, I'm simply saying there may be better, more usage specific, and better blended products for every application. Lake is involved with one of our private engine builder forums, and he often shares much of the information there. Its always good stuff.I learn something new every day.I also have spoke at length with Schaeffers, and have learned a bunch from them as well as my own experience.I also have some private test data as mentioned from others, and its really something to see when you start breaking down the components of oil.Oils ARE different.There is a fairly common oil brand out there now, that targets vintage cars etc, that people love, because its ' cheaper". It really doesnt test well, but again, they market it well. Is it " bad", well...I guess not, but are there " better" oils, absolutely. What always shocks me, is someone will pay $5,000-$25,000 on an engine, then have issue with the price of the oil. I dont get it.Its the lifeblood of the engine.Even if its a 10 qt pan, and you spend $3.00 more per quart, wow, $30.00 . We'll blow that on lunch in a few days....lol My example: If you had to have a blood transfusion, would you prefer it be from a 30 year old, healthy individual, who eats right, exercises, and has a long family history of longevity and healthiness, or would you choose your blood be from a 30 year old 65# crack [censored], who looks like 90 years old, and is strung out and been on crack and heroin for the last 15 years of their life? I mean hey, they both are blood right?Blood is blood isnt it?If you were charged by the pint for the blood, and could save $2.00 a pint, why not right? Its the better deal isnt it? You get the idea. My point isnt to " just spend more" to get the trick of the day " chic"oil. its spend more to get a good oil, or more importantly the RIGHT oil.The right oil is based on needs, clearances, temperatures and so forth. Dwayne and I had a conversation a while back , and it was because of hydraulic cams and lifters. The hydraulic lifter stuff is getting more technical,as far as requirements and adjustments.I have changed my oil for those builds, based on manufacturer feedback and requirements. I had my choice of product, it worked, and I didnt have issue, BUT, I found there to be what I felt was a better choice. Its also easier to work with a manufacture, when you use their suggested oil, and can share better data that way. OK, enough of my rambling, just my 2 cents. Watch the video if you will, there is always something to be gained. https://www.facebook.com/pg/DrivenRacingOil/videos/?ref=page_internal
RIP Monte Smith
Your work is a reflection of yourself, autograph it with quality.
WD for Diamond Pistons,Sidewinder cylinder heads, Wiseco, K1 rods and cranks,BAM lifters, Morel lifters, Molnar Technologies, Harland Sharp, Pro Gear, Cometic, King Engine Bearings and many others.
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Re: Flat tappet break in oil
[Re: pullandrag]
#2340426
07/20/17 04:21 PM
07/20/17 04:21 PM
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,621 Fulton County, PA
CMcAllister
Mr. Helpful
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Mr. Helpful
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,621
Fulton County, PA
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Good information. I'm a "buy the best, American made you can afford" kind of guy. I know people have budgets and they don't always need a $3000 pair of shocks on their 10 second bracket car or titanium rods in a street motor.
But oil is kind of chump change in the grand scheme of things. For some, Mobil One from WalMart might be OK, for others, not so much. I know guys making tons of power with stuff they shouldn't be and it's living, and they're using oils I never heard of until I saw it in their shop. I'm always trying to keep an open mind, get past opinions and learn facts. Not always easy.
If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
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