Ill be pulling the timing cover off tonight since i see comp is way down all around

Sounds like your on to something.

post what it ends up being.

What's interesting about the "it won't rev because of the cam timing" hypothesis is......modern cars with VVT can move the cams around 50 degrees.......and they rev just fine.

I agree the 90psi cranking pressure needs looking into.

I thought the vacuum reading test was a check for plugged catalytic converters(or other exhaust restrictions).

I'll be interested to see what's found when the timing cover is removed.

If the cam is retarded 2.5 teeth(35 deg) as someone mentioned, I would think there's a good possibility of some bent exhaust valves.

soo i installed the cam straight up and didnt even look at the damn cam card....

http://www.lunatipower.com/CamSpecCard.aspx?partNumber=60403

By the looks of it i should advance it 4 degrees


Been a long ass time since i delt with a gasser

If you just lined up the dots it SHOULD be 4*'s ahead.

Something's up with your 80 psi of compression, either you've got 5:1 compression or the cam is way off

so by right's i am 4deg advanced. i should be using the -4 to be straight up. correct?

that would likely get you "close" to straight up. I don't think that is the problem tho especially since advancing the cam would bump the cranking compression #. Keep digging, the 80 lbs is what Sherlock Holmes would call a serious clue.

Most cams are ground with 4* advance into them so if you line up the dots the cam will be installed where the cam grinder wanted it.

Dot to dot SHOULD be in at 106 where the card says. If you retard it 4 you SHOULD be at 110.

The only way to know for sure where it is is by degreeing the cam in. I've seen some weird stuff over the years. You could have some tolerance stack up and have it be way off. But I'd bet it's pretty close to 106. You just need to verify that.

Sounds like a cam timing problem or ignition timing issue.

You could use the split overlap method to see if your lifters are about equally off the base circle at TDC at end of exhaust stroke.
It's quick and dirty.

I've had a sticking mechanical advance do something similar.
R.

If you have a vac plate in your dizzy, make sure its not grounding out, might not apply her but I had a gm points dizzy do this.

I feel like a moron now..... Checked the timing marks and i thought they were good. Had my brother look at it and pointed out i had lined it up with the key way and not the actual mark.... Put it on right and 140psi cold. Have the timing cover to toss on but ill report back in the morning.

Glad you found it. You're not the first to do that. You certainly won't be the last.

So, 2 1/2 teeth off........ 35deg.

I'd be doing a leak down test.

With the key straight up and the top gear dot straight down, the cam is advanced 2 1/2 teeth.
This almost always results in the intake valves running into the pistons...... Unless the valve pockets are really deep and/or the cam is really small.

So that means you still have not degreed it in? if degreed from the get go this would not have happened. Just saying.

This is why most of the stockish rebuilt 340/383/440's I have worked on can't get out of their own way. Its a stockish build so everyone figures its not worth 15hp or whatever HitRod picked up in their latest cam timing article. When it makes 200hp and can't bark the tires everyone blames the poor old engine. Glad you found a smoking gun. Now put the wheel to it before you button it back up!

It rips like a scaulded cat now! The cam isnt big by anymeans but everything was fine as for leak down and comp. Guess i got lucky. The old tired motor only has to last till i get the gen3 hemi built for it. Thanks for the advice guys

Welcome to the rookie mistake learning club
Next time degree IT