I know there are some very fast and experienced racers on this board.

What are some of the top things that I can do to a 76' small block 360 to make it more durable without breaking the bank.

Because the bank is already broke with the purchase of below parts:
new heads ($2200)
New 78mm turbo and parts ($840)
New sniper EFI ($1250)
Machining and balance ($??)

I've acquired parts to make more HP than I think the stock block may be able to handle.
Not sure, never been there or done that. Yet.
Goal is 700 or more blown/turboed.
Both if need be.

I do have diamond forged pistons 1/16,1/16 rings
Main studs
Eagle SIR I beam rods (says good to 500hp??)
I will NOT be spinning this thing above 6000 rpms

Someone mentioned a short fill.
Someone else said I need a forged crank.
What about a main girdle?

For those of you who have done it not just hypothesized about it.
What's the STRAIGHT scoop?

Your tune will have to be spot on no detonation

Take those sir rods and heave them over the closest cliff and walk away

I know your one of the guys who has the knowledge to do it.
Any other tips or will it hold up with above parts sands the SIRs?

Before I balance what about these?
It says: 7500rpm/700hp

https://www.ebay.com/itm/291747788433

We finally hurt an engine (408) last year and something hit the block so I'm assuming a rod broke but it's not apart yet for me to see. This was a K1crank and K1 rods with upgraded bolts which I always do. It was rebuilt 3 times and in need of its 4th when my son asked to borrow it and finally let go. I particularly blame running alcohol as it's harder on bearing, bore wear, and other issues.

Do you want to trust imported rod bolts?
ARP makes several different quality and priced rod bolts, all in 7/16 diameter
The #8740 are the cheapest and weakest , their ARP 2000 are better and more expensive and their L19 bolts are the most expensive and strongest for all racing applications with a lot(500+ HP and 7000+ RPM)
The piston total weight and ring pack affect drag and weight, and the RPM they (all components)will fail at
Good luck, buy the best rods, pistons, rings and bearings you can for this build, not the cheapest

From what I know of small blocks isn't headgasket failure and issue with too much boost/compression?
Gus

Current bob weight is calculated at 1932.
I used mopar rod bolts in stock rods for 72k miles
without issue. 5800 rpm redline and 10psi.
RPM will not be over 6k, most likely 5500 so I could use STOCK rod bolts and never have a problem.

Compression strength around the base of the big end on the rod beam is what I need.
Nothing is going to fly apart in this engine. Gonna get smashed or twisted from boost first.
. :-)

$200 H beam rods will be perfect. Or just stick with the stockers. Sounds like you have it figured out.

Head gasket troubles?

I think so.
Maybe this will help.
Maybe not.

Chevy guys make 1000hp to the wheels with a junk yard base.
Lucky dogs.

Its a junkyard base yes but it has been taken apart, the rings have been gapped, the cam has been changed, fastners changed etc. Matts truck is impressive on the dyno for sure and its no slouch on the track but it doesn't spend much time there.

All fasteners and gaskets in his engine are reused against factory recommendations.
Even the "stretchy" head bolts.
Everything is torqued to 65ish lb. ft. or untill it FEELS like
it is about to snap.

Like I said.

Unfare advantage as chevy built this engine using racing technology.
6 bolt skirted block.
Cylinder bores special hardened material that does not get a ridge even after 250k miles.
Crank good to 1000hp reliably.
2nd gen rods good to 900hp.
Heads super high angle factory cast ports with excellent deck thickness.
Shorty ductile Iron headers.
Solid pistons and intake manifold.

Blah. (sticks finger down throat)

Oh well. 60 year old technology vs. a very good LS design. I guess I should be upset that I can't text with my old rotary phone.

It's an apple to orange comparison. Put a rod and piston in a third gen Hemi and give it hell.

While what you really need is a race block, I fully understand the budget issues.

I have cracked cylinder walls on half filled stock blocks with a lot less than 700 hp. However it was with over 16 to 1 compression.

I would fill the block as high as you dare. Its cheap and it will help.

Good luck!
Bill

Definitely do a forged crank, ditch the I beams and get some H beams, Also I would suggest doing the oil cross over line in the lifter valley, tap in-between 8 and 6 lifter valley and 1 and 3 lifter valley, connect them with a I believe 3/8 tubing, have done it on last two motors and it works great, oil doesn't have to travel down the passenger side to the front main up to the drivers side and back, puts oil directly on drivers side and helps aid in oiling to front main bearing, there is actually a really good article on oiling mods somewhere online, I did all I could, drilling out main passages to true 1/2'' and mains from the lifter feed to true 9/32, I was really surprised how small they got once you got 2 inches in, I always run full grove main bearings as well, the way I see it with full grove bearings your rods get oiling all the time, with 1/2 or 3/4 bearings you are restricting oil to rods to timed oil, just like the rocker arms, just a few tricks that could help it live at that power...

The 360 has the largest main bearings of Chrysler OEM V8s. I'd not put $$$ into a forged crank, buy instead a new 9000 Series from SCAT.
Also the SIR rods have been good for the last 4 years or so but I'd replace them with SCAT Pro series. There is no inherent superiority of H-beam over I-beam, and horsepower ratings for connecting rods are bogus from the start. Having said that, the SCAT have several good points, material, 7/16" bolt size, and low weight especially compared to the stock rods.

By keeping rpm low, you are extending the life of the engine.

R.

Ok.
Short block fill is on my list.


I'm having a hard time finding rods to use because of the pistons.

Must be 1.123-1.125 length. (edit 6.xxx)
Must have .927 small end diameter
Can be either 2.125 or 2.10 big end dia.
Must have big end width of .927

Most all I find that would work have a .940-.945 width.
How hard is it for the crank grinder to open up for rod side clearance?

Either that or I buy a mopar sb rod and have the small end bushed.
Is that less expensive?

Scat 9000 cranks are only $300ish.
If I bought one of those it would be a 4" stroke and I would have to throw everything else out the window. LOL

Boost will be my cubes. :-)

I'm thinking it is a lot easier to narrow the rod big ends than widen the crankshaft rod journals

First of all I have to say, depending on a used stock crank at 700hp is foolish.

Now how's it going to add up? 9.600 block, 3.58 stroke, 6.125 rods means the pistons have to be about 1.685 compression height. You said "Must be 1.123-1.125 length" which I don't understand. 4" bore pistons with a chevy pin size and 1.685 compression distance are not falling out of any trees. They're custom

a 350 chevy with 3.75 stroke and 6.000 rods needs a piston with compression height of 1.12, is that where that number came from?

Anyway, I agree with Cab that trimming the rods' big ends sounds like the right way to go.

The block can use every trick you can give it. Girdle, short fill, etc.

Good Luck!
R.