Does anyone have an idea if having 9:1 compression will be a problem with a 440 with a 1987-Weiand high rise Tunnel Ram with a triple Bug catcher air scoop, Dual 600 Vacuum Holleys, 21-225-4 Comp Xtreme Energy Cam, 1 3/4 headers to 3 in collector, 3 in H pipe exhaust to flowmaster super 10, and ported & polished 346 1971 heads?

Any and all input will be very appreciated, thank you!

Edit: Has an automatic trans with shift kit and 2800 stall converter, all going in a 1968 Plymouth Fury (weighing in at about 2 tons). Just trying to get as many variables in there as I can think of.

The tunnel ram and the 9:1 compression doesn't really matter, but what does matter is that the compression is a little low for that cam IMO. That doesn't mean it won't work, but you've got low compression for the mentioned cam in a heavy car. The low compression with that cam WILL make it trickier to tune and more sluggish on response. The tunnel ram will exacerbate the needs for tuning response (i.e. you will need big squirters and alot of initial timing). That said, you will hear people say "tunnel rams don't make low end torque." This isn't really true, IMO they can and will make more torque everywhere when tuned correctly. BUT the plenums are typically very large, making them harder to tune and very easy to become sluggish and unresponsive when not tuned correctly.

It depends on the gears you have, but that 2800 converter probably isn't enough. I'm assuming (never a good thing) it is a cheaper, off the shelf type unit. How big is it? I would go closer to 3500+ stall, and run 4.10s if I wanted to make that combo work.

All that said, if you have the tunnel ram already I would 100% try it.

Also, 100%, without a doubt, make sure you degree that cam in.

The cr is a little low for that cam, and the stall is too low as well.

Don't assume anything on the cr. CC and measure everything so you know what you really have.

I've only run that cam in one 440 years ago when that series of cams first came out.
It went in a 6bbl build with mild ported big valve 906's, and had 9.2cr.
The valvetrain noise was as bad as a solid, and it was into valvetrain unhappiness at about 5600rpm(Isky 8005a dual springs, HS 1.5's).
I ended up taking it out as I wasn't too happy with the power either.
I swapped it out for a Crane H-302 instead, and in that particular motor, it did everything better.
Less noise, more tq/hp, revved a couple hundred rpm higher before the unhappiness set in too.

I bought the engine from some kid a few months again and and the engine shop he got from in trade for his Charger was already semi assembled and was being put in the tunnel ram path, so I'm not 100% on internals. I did get a spec sheet on that cam and it said it was for 9:1 comp and needs to be used with a 2800+ stall, I double checked this on comp cams website. I figured I'd ask and get some opinions since I'm new to playing with tunnel ram and multiple carb set ups. It does however have a 2.76 rear but I'm trying to remedy that and get a 4.10 by selling the Cammed 4bbl 318 I got in there now.

Edit: Here's the link I was looking at if that helps at all: http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=709&sb=2

I dont know what else to tell you.

You asked for opinions, I gave you mine based on real world results, and you come back with "yeh, but the comp catalog says......"

Will it run?
Sure.

I wish I got a choice in choosing my cam, but I'm low on funds after getting it and all the stuff to try to make the tunnel ram work. Since I'm stuck with might as well ask, how did the idle sound? I read it supposed to be a more streetable version of the purple cam.

Not trying to argue it, my bad if it came off that way I'm just trying to understand it all.

Had a small block 360 with lower compression then that work fine with a Weiand tunnel ram.

Do you know what pistons are in it? Has it ever been fired?

You already own the 284 cam so go ahead and run it. I ran the XE285HL in a 8.9:1 compression 440 with mildly ported 346 heads using an Edelbrock RPM intake. I used the 285 cam because it was on the shelf in the shop and I didn't want to buy another cam just to do the cylinder head testing we were going to do.

The engine made 363 lb-ft @ 2,500 rpm, 496 lb-ft @ 3,800 rpm and 495 HP @ 5,400 rpm......where it began to die like fast68plymouth said would happen.

It's far from the perfect combination but if you're good with carb tuning and ignition curves, you can make it drivable.

It's not going to have much bottom end, more converter the better, gear also.

I don't know of any of the internals unfortunately and Also not sure if it has even been even broken in yet. It was supposedly rebuilt with no miles buuuut you know how that ussually goes... Haha

Too much cam for your compression. Even if your compression was higher that's still too much cam for those gears and converter. Comp's website says that cam is 240/246 @050. You need to slice at least 10* off both those numbers to match your compression, cut significantly more if you want to match your converter and gears. Yeah sure the stall and compression comp recommends would work if you have a 2800lb car.

You're in a tough position. Either way those 2.76 gears won't do much for you with anything other than a near stock cam. That 2800 stall converter won't handle much of a cam, and with those 2.76 gears is going to want to slip too much on the highway and dog around town. You're going to have to make some hard choices because you won't like it if you slap it together as-is. IMO you can either keep that cam and put in 4.10 gears and a 4000+ rpm converter (good converters are not cheap), or leave your rear gears and converter and put in a near stock cam.

Thanks for the response, I'm getting a 4.10 rear for it for sure but, getting that rear pretty much tapped me for cash...
Im 19 with a part time Job and out 40k for student loans from my Diesel/Heavy Equip. School so that is making things difficult. Can you even remotely get away with that combo with the better rear to rev you up to that power band faster, or is it gonna be doggier than a slant 6 like everyone makes it seem? Also wouldn't putting a near stock cam be a problem with the 1200 cfm I'm running with the Tunnel Ram? My inexperience hurts me here too so all advice is very helpful.

Edit: Any suggestions for a good stall I should try?

With the stock converter and 2.76 when you floor it from a stop it'll probably bog and not do very much until the rpm hits around 4000 then she'll fly. With the 4.10's you'll get there a bit faster but will still have that dead zone that a good converter will leap right over. While overkill, a tunnel ram would do fine with a stock cam. I would probably dump in the engine with your large cam with the knowledge that it'll be more show than go until I could get the gears and converter in there.

Vs all the wondering and math, slap it together and check your cranking compression then there is no mis understanding.

So many try the math and although your in NJ is an easy bet your at or near sea level, even 1k above can make a difference, im at 4k above and its a added factor in my builds and an important one.

So an update on the build, it looks like the guy I got trans from was guessing it had a stall converter in it annnd it looks like it don't, So I probably have to go get one. What would work best for my set up a 3500 stall or 4000 stall? I just put a 4.10 Suregrip rear in it.

Edit: Going to be picking one and buying it real soon (in about a day or two)

If you are going to do any street driving you probably don't want to go 4000 stall

It's going to be mostly Street. So a 3500 stall would work with this build and be a able to be the neck snapper I'm hoping for?