looks like I will have to have this machined to fit.The old crank measured .645 deep and the Eagle measures .638.The nose of the converter had all the paint rubbed off and some of the metal needles to say.

Don't panic yet. I have had both a K1 crank and an Eagle crank and a friend had an Eagle crank with issues. We both just took a flapper wheel ( sanding wheel ) on a die grinder and made a few passes to remove some side clearance. Not much is needed so don't go crazy. It worked for both of us.

ok I wont panic but the converter is not going into the crank far enough not the fit on the side.

I had the same problem with my Molnar crank and Ultimate converter not playing well together. I ended up chucking it in a lathe taking around 0.045" off the face of the hub IIRC. Just make sure you leave enough material on the face of the hub.

I never bought a NEW Eagle crank in my life because of continued issues like this, and never will. But they did teach me a valuable lesson and that is to check EVERYTHING. I'm changing a gearset in my powerglide today and installing a new higher stall converter. The first thing I checked this morning was that the new converter engaged the pump correctly. It did.

All I needed to do is put the flex plat on the crank and put the converter in the crank to see if it slid in far enough to engage the flex plate without bottoming out.I did not do that.

I had same problem.
I Put .030 shims between flexplate and converter.
Also made .040 shim to go between crank and flexplate.

i had the same prob,just used washers.if you do that just make shure you still have a little in and out play.

PTC wants between .125 and .187 to move the vert forward to crank to help with pump drive.I would have to run a .125 mid plate to do that and may be the design of the vert.

Are there any standard dimensions for the depth of the crank pilot hole and the length of the converter snout?

PTC said they would get back with me on that measurement

Many times just adding a larger chamfer on the converter snout will fix it. I've had stock cranks that the converter wouldn't slide into.
Doug

.007 undersize? Grind or belt sand the face of the snout. Then chamfer the edge as Doug said. Break corner on crank face.

I would like to have some room to move the tc forward like I should,Lets see what problems come with that like having a flex plate shield on a stock firewall b body.Let me get some coffee in me so I can think and I will measure some things a couple of times and write it down.I think the 1/8 mid plate would be in theory a quick fix.

IMHO 90% of thrust bearing failures are caused by this.

Kevin

My bad for being in a hurry. Here is my flex plate shield,I could move the engine forward the .090[midplate thickness]cee-4036
The shield sits right on the firewall with no extra room when running.I move it forward to get it out.

This is the mod I did.

How many have used a midplate to solve this problem with the TC/crank problem

The midplate only moves the TC back not solving the nose problem.
The Eagle crank had .251flange to pilot,.635 deep pilot
The 440source has .248 flange to pilot and .641 deep pilot

Now I need to find out on the TC nose how much it sticks out past the bolt tabs on the TC