Is the k frame bolt stripped by any chance,hence why they welded that side on? did they cut a window in the rail to try and put a nut on the backside of the k frame bolt?

It's a devise that uses the bumper bracket mounting bolts to raise the front of the car. And it also can be used to move the car around with the wheels off. It will support the car with the motor ok, but it's hard to move by myself.
Here's a better picture.
Jim

Where did you get the car? Maybe P/O can help you with collision or rot question.

I got it from the guy I sold it to, and the accident was before I used to have it. I have no information on anything prior to that.

Jim

How did the car handle before dissassembly? (assuming youve driven it)

Had the alignment checked?

IF the car runs straight, handles good, gets god alignment specs, doesnt eat tires, and the repair isnt coming apart, assuming your using this as a driver, I wouldnt get too involved with rebuilding the repaired area.

IF youre returning the car to OEM for show (it appears its a real Road Runner) then getting the correct frame section is going to be needed. (clearly you know that part though)

I dont know if a repopr of the frame rail is made, but I would be tempted to get one off a clean southern/western car.

I agree about taking some measurements. Personally, I would take some from front wheel to back wheel - Taking them from the same side and across the car diagonally. I bent the frame on a Rmacharger plowing a number of years ago, and we used that method to find out if the truck was out of square (it was)

Thats a really odd place to have that sort of repair. Passenger side eliminates battery corrosion.....rust is a possibility, but how the heck would an accident damage that section? I know the K frame is a bit messed up, but thats a pretty well protected area. TRying to envision the accident that couldve caused it.

I'd pull the motor from the top first just in case the k-member was welded in because the bolts were stripped. The last thing you need it to cut the k-member loose and have everything hit the floor!

Besides, installing the engine from the bottom has a good reason but pulling it from the bottom is way more trouble than its worth !!!

Well Pictures and story upcoming.
This photo indicates that it went 1 of 2 ways.
Jim

You need to make some room in your PM box.
Jim

I've never used a cutoff wheel or a die grinder before, but I'm amazed at what they can do. I decided to leave the motor in while I tried to get the K frame loose. I took some advise and covered the gas lines and fuel pump with wet towels. I loosened the k bolts a little to see if the welds were getting free. I got the front first and then the back. I took my time and was sure to be as safe as possible. I had one big hangup with the shifter rods. I neglected to remove them because I didn't think I had to. I realized a problem when the motor started going up off the dolly as the car was raised. There should be a checklist in the tech section.

Here's some more photos

Another

Another one

One more

Last one

Thanks to all who helped!

As my project moves on, I'll be looking for more.
Thanks Again!
Jim

That's great you finally got it all pulled out!