Its time to start rounding up the parts to build a BB 727.I have a 727 from a 73 440 motorhome as a case. Gonna reuse the front and rear billet servos from the SB trans as well as the brand strut and 4.2 lever. I need a new RMVB which will come from Cope. I also need a aluminum front drum with the steel sleeve as well as new alto reds and steels, front and rear band, bolt in sprag and rebuild kit. I will not be using a blanket on this trans.
Cope does not carry the full metal jacket drum and he has a core charge on bands. Where do you guys suggest I get the rest of these components that's knowledgable and good parts and prices?
Thanks

Why dont you like the steel billet drum? The few bites I got, no one wanted the billet AL drum?

I dont sell the full metal jacket drum cause I dont like that drum. I dont want to rip on TCS, cause I use there Drums, but I just dont like that drum.

I had to look that up, your refering to the steel sleeved/al drum kit?

yes, there has been two members here that claimed they lost 1/4 mile ET using the steel billet drum. I have a personal friend who has a 68 dart with a 440SB using w7 heads. dyno'd 716hp. I can beat him to the 1/8 strip with my 408 in my barracuda. His car does not get out there like it should. He uses a billet front drum. I believe that drum is heavier than the stock drum. I would think it would take more time to stop that drum on the shift.

full metal jacket aluminum drum with steel sleeve. I have seen it on a few sites for sale all about the same price.
John, curious to why or what part of that drum you don't like?

I can tell you I went from a basically stock 727 with just good usual parts, to a roller 727 with aluminum drum and on consecutive weekends with the same air saw zero difference.
Don't think the drum, no matter what type you use is gonna make a worthwhile difference.
Even if it was 2 hundreds, get what is easy to find.

Ok. See if we can make a deal.

I installed the Cope 727 FULLY LOADED steel billet drum, as well as the Ultimate Sprag which I also got from Cope. And the relined thick front band.

Already had the heavy duty front drum strut.

Also went to the 4.2 lever from the 5.0 and the shift overlap went away.

You could get a metal shim to replace the fiber one that goes between the input and output shaft.

I'm in the beginning process of putting a pump gas B1 engine together so:

Next I'll be looking at the 300m input and output shaft as well as the thick lug pump gear.

I imagine upgraded planteries will be needed as well.

My car will still mostly likely be over 3,700 pounds after the B1 engine goes in. Really like to avoid broken parts.

Mike

Silver67...you'll definitely to get steel planetaries. Mine has a 5 pinion steel setup. The stock aluminum ones will strip the splines.

Mine still has stock input and output shafts in it. It wouldn't surprise me if one or the other broke at any time though.

What bands would be best using a steel billet front drum for street strip app behind a 511?

At what point do you need the 300m shafts

I'm running a solid red lined band on mine.

We've run 9.0@3350lbs foot brake (400runs) and 9.5@3750lbs w/trans brake. Both cars have stock input and output. The foot brake car got around 250 passes on the stock planet carrier before it started to twist the splines. It did not completely fail, caught it during maintenance. The trans brake car did strip the stocK front planet splines.
Doug

Stock input, output, front and rear carriers, going 8.50's at 2900 lbs. using a brake. Lost count of the number of passes on it, just upgraded a year ago. Everything looked fine. All I did to the centerline was machine the front carrier and install a needle thrust washer - about 15 years ago. The centerline seriously has over a 1000 passes on it in two cars.

Ok, anyone using a flex band on the front drum?

I did, but when I pulled the transmission to put the brake in I went with a solid. The flex band still looked new after three years.

Ok, so if i use the full metal jacket i can use a flex band and using the billet steel drum would require a solid band?

Dave I ran a red lined flex band on my steel drum for three years on my street/strip Dart and it still looked new when I removed it. Now is it recommended to run one...........I don't know.

Ok. Looks like its almost hard to go wrong on band selection.

only thing I can think of on the flex band, is the anchors are not as strong as the solid one. Buddy that runs barona snapped the rivets on one in his race prepped 904.

Ok. Ill stay with the solid band then. Looks like carbon fiber is the better material for heat vs the red.