I'm ready to start the build on my 440. If I don't succumb to the lazies on Sunday (this is my 6 day work week) I'll dig out my spare 440 and start the inspection/rebuilding process.

I need to go through the block before I start to spec the parts so I haven't bought anything yet.

The build will be centered on reliability with emphasis on maximum low end torque. I currently have the Comp cam/lifters/chain, pushrods, Eddy heads, exhaust manifolds, and carb ready to go on. I'm still undecided on pistons but I want an actual 10 to 10.5:1 compression.

A good friend will bore/hone the block at his home shop. A local race engine builder (highly recommended) told me $250 to balance the assy.

What would you guys expect the rest of the build to cost?

make sure your buddy has Torque plates.

He does.


Not only is he a long term member of our Mopar club he has a good reputation with the roundy round guys.

So this is just machine work less pistons?

I wouldn't be happy without a minimum deck and cm bearing swap, bore and/or hone. Crank polish or turned as needed.

Heads should be OK as they weren't run long. Compression sounds just a bit high even with aluminum heads if you want a high torque pump gas engine. Can selection will be important.

My swag is about $2000-2300 on machine work, $5000-5500 all in including the price of stuff you have.

A few wild cards are block, pistons and rods. With a goal of high torque and high (er) compression the pistons and block will need to be dialed in. Consistent deck height, compression distance and quench. Is the block square? Can you find a shelf stock piston/gasket to meet your goals and deliver good quench? Are the rods OK with new bolts and minor work at most?

Answers might range from <$1k to several thousand dollars.

Suggest you get your block measured, look for pistons and plan accordingly. In the spirit of managing to a budget, a (true) ~9.5:1 AL head non quench build will run a whole lot better than the stock 440 without breaking the bank.

An option you might get a HF gram scale ($9.99) & rig up a fixture to hold the rod horizontle to get its weights then give the bobweight & the crank/dampener/flexplate/tc to your man & save a ton of money. there are some good videos on you tube for this. the rod is the hardest one to do.

I have no problems getting weights and measurements of the components. The tools necessary are on hand and I know how to use them.

The plan was to use my spare block. If it checks out okay I'll have it decked (minimum cut) and use it. It may need a sleeve or two because of a scorch on the deck but Phil (bore/hone guy) said he can get them for about $25 each.

Should the block not check out I can use the engine that is in the Imperial now. I really wanted to just swap them out since I don't have room for the car in the shop now.

In our area, low mileage motorhome engines are dirt cheap. $250-$350 gets you a good core. For what you are doing I would start with the best example I could find and do a ring, hone, bearing and gasket rebuild on the bottom end. A hot tank is cheap in my area but I've done bucks down car wash block cleanup too.

Sometimes starting with a better core saves big bucks at the machine shop!

I just had a '66 289 done at the machine shop for my Mercury Comet. I provided pistons but other than that it was $1480 for everything. I could have saved quite a bit, but went ahead and did new valves. .020 overbore, .010/.010 crank cut, cam bearings installed, freeze plugs, etc. Very good engine to start with! It was just dirty and tired.

I've got a complete (disassembled) 440 to look at as well as the engine that is in the car.

Something that has been running through my mind is determining where the money is best spent.
If the rods and crank need work then it may be more cost effective to go with a stroker. The down side is that I don't want to make the mpg even worse on a road trip car.

Should the costs grow even more then I might look at swapping a different engine into the car.

I already have a V8 fuel injection system with distributorless ignition so that's not too much of a concern.


It really boils down to me getting the best bang for the buck. This time, instead of big power I'm looking for reliability, low to mid range torque, and whatever mpg I can squeeze out of it. In that order.

I am assuming a 0.030 overbore, 84cc aluminum heads, shoot for good squish and 10.5:1 compression. Compression is the key, everything falls in around it. Compression determines mechanical efficiency. So to skimp on compression is to rob everything else.

4.35 x 3.75 goes to 914 cc swept volume.

To get 10.5:1 compression, the volume above the piston is 914 / 9.5. So you're looking for 96.2cc above the piston. Lets figure out head cc. Assume 5 cc for valve pockets, zero deck, 0.039" head gasket (FelPro 1009 9.8cc) 1cc above the ring.
96.2 -5 -9.8 -1 = 80.4cc That's your head volume.

Now on to reciprocating parts. If you have a decent crank, use it. Cast or forged makes little difference. I've seen brand new 440 cast cranks for $75.

For rods, I don't care who you go with, but scrap the rods and buy new aftermarket rods with 7/16" bolts. All of the lower priced rods will spec out at 6.760" length. That's 0.008" shorter than stock. So you'll need to measure everything carefully and calculate the piston compression height to get to zero deck with your block. I was just in the Wiseco catalog and they have a category called "shelf plus one". That's a shelf stock piston with one change. In your case I'd use that one change to get the compression height exactly right. If you have any budget the piston is where I'd put most of it.

You know the rest.

R.

PS: Darton sleeves are the standard in the HP world.

Since you can get your block decked square (and measured) I think you can get there without lots of cost... but with lots of measuring and careful selection.

Also, it sounds like a moderate RPM torque engine. It does not need race parts. A hyper or even standard cast piston would be OK if it meets your quench and compression needs. I know I might get lots of tomatoes for saying it but I'll say it anyhow. If you have a set of stock rods that has not been abused, get them magged, fresh bolts and use them is an option.

The spare engine is my original turbo 440. It's the one I rattled hard enough to blow pistons apart. The deck was scorched from a blown head gasket too.

Is that considered abuse?

That sure sounds like abuse to me... maybe the aftermarket rod sounds good.

YES

I have never rebuilt a big block mopar before, but my crank grinder guy, who has been at it since the late 60's, once told me the throws on BB Mopar cranks can often be off a little bit in relation to each other. He was telling me the other crank shops in town have crank grinding machines that do not correct the indexing between all the throws and only grind each rod journal individually without considering it's relationship to the next one down the line.

If your building a closed chamber engine having the crank index ground is probably worth it.