Hey guy's i have done pretty much nothing to my charger other than return everything to new. i mad a couple of small changes such as aluminum k frame bushings and i got rid of the iso clamp system on the rear. it was a 318 car so it had a light duty suspension and it had no rear bar either. it drives alright but i want to make it a bit more competent noth ing crazy just want to firm it up a bit. so first i want to get a rear bar set up, i was looking at what hellwig has for a 72 b body it will fit my car fine what do you guys think of the company do they make good stuff? i have the factory front bar but it seems pretty light duty to me i have not measured it yet but it looks small! so i will upgrade that as well. the car is still a small block automatic car nothing special pretty much all stock. i plan on doing some kind of upgrade on the t bars and shocks next season after i get a feel for what the sway bars get me. any insights would be great.

Could check the yards for a Cordoba variant. The one I got was larger than a C body cop car, and bolted into my 75 C body. The holes for the frame brackets were there.

IMO, you are attacking the upgrade backwards if I understand your thinking, the rear swaybar normally is your last fine tune upgrade, if needed at all. TB's are first OEM upgrade on most too softly sprung mopars.

Good to get some responses, on the t bars which ones would still get me a nice ride but improve handling? it is a long haul street car my goal is to give it a bit more road handling ability i don't want to make it a canyon carver. the car rides fine but does tend to roll a bit in high speed corners like on ramps nothing crazy but i know it could be better. i had a 72 rallye charger many years ago it had the factory rear bar i remember breaking end links from time to time which is why i felt something else may be better out back. i don't really care what order i go about making the improvements just want to understand the logic behind the changes.

The real danger with installing a rear sway bar next is that you could be setting the car up for high speed or wet conditions oversteer = fishtailing, 180 or spinout.

Did the factory ever offer a rear sway bar for that body? If so, that would be a safe bet with the matching front bar.

If not, then any or all options will be first step the car toward less roll:
1. What condition are the rear springs? If either of the leaf packs is worn, fix that before a rear sway bar.
2. Increase Front roll resistance. This is where to start.
* Polyurethane sway bar link bushings along with heavy link tubes and washers. This will get sway bar into action much more immediately.
* If the sway bar bushings are worn, replace. Polyurethane bushings with grease fittings will also help get the existing bar working to its full potential.
* Larger diameter front sway bar.
* Larger diameter torsions bars.
- How much larger depends on the roads, your car's tires, your preferences. Rough roads, snow, mud, all seasons, keep it soft as possible = baby steps larger. Super duper high performance sticky tires on concrete highways then don't hesitate with baby steps, take a big step larger all the way.

3. Shocks can make a difference in how quickly the body rolls.

For your stated goals, might want to just start with poly-u swaybar and see how it feels. That will give you a sense of how big of step(s) you want to take next.

As for your e-body, not sure why yours was breaking end links but there's a lot of stresses on all end links. Common item to break. Best way to engineer them is with a heim joint in double shear. Notice when I suggested polyu end link bushings to use heavy washers and tubes. I should have written links too. I've seen and had normal ones break,wear and punch through washers.

Interesting to note that when the e-bodies were new, the magazine tests commented that the performance models equiped with rear sway bars handled much better than those without. So it definately depends on the car and how its designed. The factory knew those cars needed a rear bar and equiped them as soon as they could.

thanks for the response, the end links were breaking on a rallye charger back in the early 80's not an e body. and yes you could get a rear sway bar on my car this one just never had it. there is no wear in my car all bushings were replaced in fact everything was redone when i redid the car in 2012 new steering box ball joints rod ends and sleeves it was basically a new car not too much mileage since then. i do run much bigger tires than stock 225-70-15 fronts on 7 inch rims and 275-60-15 in the rear with 8 inch rims when you consider this car came with 5 inch wide rims and 14 inch bias ply tires when new it is a large upgrade! of course it is not in line with today's low profile 16-18 inch rims but i am not interested in those. i will look into poly front bar bushings but i never saw any when i built the car. the fact that the sport version of my car came with a rear bar is why i felt it would be a good idea to get a rear one for mine to at least get me to that level, then i figured i would tune it out from there but most folks seem to feel that is a bad idea?

Usually when Chrysler added a rear bar they also upsized the front bar.

Don't worry about the torsion bars or rear leafs. Get a MATCHED set of anti-sway bars and install them. That means front AND rear at the same time.

Been there, done that, in my '71 Sebring with a 318.

It quit acting like a boat going around corners. And with the 'weaker' springs it rode great and softly enough for long distance driving without beating the crap out of your back and neck like extra heavy springs will do.

The front bar on my car had hime joints - that is spherical bearings - for the links and nothing broke, even when I drove the car around the local 1/4 mile banked oval race track.

Later if you want you can sill add heavier duty springs.

As for shocks I used stock, and no problems with them, altho they were gas shocks.

For a street car you don't need all that extra heavy duty springs, regardless who says you do, you DON'T or you'll be busting your butt, and back, and neck every time you drive it to the store, and you won't want to drive it to the next town for a drive-in movie, or soda at the best soda jerk shop. And your girlfriend WON'T be riding with you.

Sorry I misread the car model you wrote on the links breaking.

If the sport version came with a rear sway bar, then it would be fine. The factory engineers were pretty careful in making sure the cars would not oversteer. Just be sure the front sway bar diameter and torsion bars on the sport package was the same size as yours.

The logic here related to sequence is about playing it safe. A car that understeers is going to plow ahead when the front tires loose grip. While that seems bad, slowing down and straightening the wheels and they will regain traction. Whereas when the back ones start sliding often the best a driver can do is clear traffic and crash soft.

But you're aiming for a factory package. Your tire diameters are larger but similar all around - result is just a bit more rake, and a bit more weight and width to the rear.

As far as why the links were breaking back on your other Charger, if you can describe more detail about what part broke, maybe we can take a stab at it.

If you want to try poly on the front sway bar, they probably won't be specific to your car. You can check with Firm Feel and so forth but don't be surprised if they say they don't.
If not, measure the end link lengths and you shouldn't have much trouble finding from any speedshop or on-line. For the bushings, it will be more measuring! The question will be whether you can find a pair in the same diameter as stock and fit the factory retainer. Or is there a bushing and retainer that mounts to the factory bracket or K. So a bunch of measuring. Zerk fitting to grease them is nice because they do squeak when dry, although the 'polygraphite' ones are not supposed to.