Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: dd340]
#2238956
01/22/17 01:11 PM
01/22/17 01:11 PM
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hemi71x
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EVAPORUST This picture is what my LCA's look like after soaking them out in a 5 gallon pail of Evaporust. Looks like they were just made at the stamping plant. Clean them up, squeaky clean with whatever solvent you prefer, then soak them out.
Last edited by hemi71x; 01/22/17 04:58 PM.
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Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: dd340]
#2238977
01/22/17 01:40 PM
01/22/17 01:40 PM
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 294 Maryland
MoparMike1974
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Try a product called Ospho. It works much better than evaporust. These products are only intended for surface rust. Anything more and you will need to mechanically remove the rust then treat it.
Last edited by MoparMike1974; 01/22/17 01:41 PM.
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Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: dd340]
#2238978
01/22/17 01:43 PM
01/22/17 01:43 PM
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Joined: May 2005
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BDW
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Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: MoparMike1974]
#2239111
01/22/17 04:39 PM
01/22/17 04:39 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,147 Mesa, Arizona
dart4forte
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Muric acid is good for cleaning out the water passages in your heads and block
Last edited by dart4forte; 01/22/17 04:40 PM.
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Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: dd340]
#2239291
01/22/17 07:13 PM
01/22/17 07:13 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,273 fredericksburg,va
cudaman1969
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They use it in swimming pools where people get it on there skin. Wear gloves if you have to put your hand in it, in other words use your brain. I've used every form of rust remover, I have vats of molasses, electrolysis tanks, muriatic acid tanks and I use osfo stuff. If you have a little or delicate part use the evoporust product $$$$. If you need fast, muriatic is the one, what you buy now is diluted but I still cut in half. Wash good when removed then spray with Crud Cutter, sold in paint stores, it will keep it from rusting back. Did my lca about three weeks ago, still no rust back, in about two months I'll paint. Remember, they all have there good points and bad points. After the muriatic been used awhile and lost its power I mix it with weed killer to get the stubborn grass out of my driveway. The ph just burns it up. I can hear the tree huggers now.
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Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: Stanton]
#2239614
01/23/17 02:01 AM
01/23/17 02:01 AM
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,655 Cut and Shoot, TX
kentj340
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The problem with Muriatic acid: 1) very strong and harmful fumes 2) it attacks the base metal 3) the items will flash rust instantly after neutralizing More about the fumes: if you use it in a closed space like a garage, the fumes can attack everything metal in the area, if the exposure time is several hours or more. After I left my shop for the day, a quart or two of vinegar leaked on the floor and put surface rust on every piece of steel in the room by morning. And this was just vinegar, not nearly as strong as typical store-bought dilute muratic acid. Yes, Evapo-Rust isn't cheap, but all things considered, it's very popular for a reason.
If you don't see two dolphins, you need a vacation.
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Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: dd340]
#2239689
01/23/17 11:07 AM
01/23/17 11:07 AM
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Joined: Jan 2006
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I need more coffee this morning but i seem to foggily remember that Muriatic acid (HCL) can cause "hydrogen embrittlement" cracking even long after it has been used. HBC can cause a steel part to fail far below its yield strength, even below its fatique strength. Roughly this can mean breaking at 20% of the load you would expect. It has other safety problems: https://simple.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrochloric_acidOsphro and Naval Jelly have been around for a long time and used by the US Navy http://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Naval_Jelly_Rust_DissolverThere are links in my previous posts on rust removal on Evaporust about cheap extenders like vinegar of expensive rust removers. I bought a gallon of Safest Rust Remover 4:1 concentrate but have not experimented with it yet. My brother favors using a pneumatic needle scaler followed by Osphro or a rust converter. The needle scaler handled right can add a "shot peened" strengthening effect to steel parts. Don't weaken a steel part's strength while "pretty-ing it up."
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Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: dd340]
#2239815
01/23/17 03:09 PM
01/23/17 03:09 PM
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 958 Chicago
PurpleBeeper
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A little bit of side info:
All acids attack/remove rust AND the base metal to different degrees. Stronger = faster, but not really "better". In order of "acid strength", sulfuric acid (battery acid is about 15% sulfuric), hydrochloric (muriatic is 12% hyrochloric acid) > phosphoric acid > citric acid. I've never used ospho, but based on it's name it's an ortho-phosphoric acid based product (phosphoric acid).
All of these acids can be "neutralized" with baking soda making them OK to go down the drain in most places. fyi- it's good to have some baking soda around to neutralize any acid you get on your skin or on on concrete/other metal.
I've always used some type of phoshporic acid based product. Sulfuric is WAY too strong & hydrocholic (even 12% muriatic) is too strong too in my opinion, but yo might get away with it if you watch the parts VERY closely. If you aren't in a big hurry, you "might" be able to find some oxalic acid. I used to use that years ago to restore beer cans since it would SLOWLY remove the rust & leave the paint/ink on the cans alone for the most part.
Last edited by PurpleBeeper; 01/23/17 03:11 PM.
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Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: kentj340]
#2239997
01/23/17 08:47 PM
01/23/17 08:47 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 10,693 Surface of the Sun, AZ
Hotwheelsjr
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The problem with Muriatic acid: 1) very strong and harmful fumes 2) it attacks the base metal 3) the items will flash rust instantly after neutralizing More about the fumes: if you use it in a closed space like a garage, the fumes can attack everything metal in the area, if the exposure time is several hours or more. After I left my shop for the day, a quart or two of vinegar leaked on the floor and put surface rust on every piece of steel in the room by morning. And this was just vinegar, not nearly as strong as typical store-bought dilute muratic acid. This is why I sold my '72 SSP I was going to clone into a '71 RR. After sandblasting the entire front clip (not fenders), over several days with a Harbor Freight sand blaster, I left an open, empty gallon container of muriatic acid in the garage over night one night. Next morning I came out and every piece of metal in my garage was flash rusted. I was so disgusted, I sold the car. Before: After... I did start blasting again, but then stopped in disgust and sold the damn thing.
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Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: dd340]
#2241101
01/25/17 05:04 PM
01/25/17 05:04 PM
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Joined: Jan 2006
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I saw Evaporust one gallon jugs in a Tractor Supply yesterday for $20, which was cheaper than the $26 per gallon at Harbor Freight. Amazon has some suppliers selling Evaporust in 3 gallon containers with a dipping basket for reasonable prices. https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-rust-Gallon...PTF7SKW9DRZX2MCNow that i know that Evaporust will only "chelate" a limited amount of rust, my revised strategy is to dip a non-delicate rusty part first in cheap white distilled Vinegar, rinse, then finish in Evaporust.
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Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: 360view]
#2241232
01/25/17 08:47 PM
01/25/17 08:47 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,042 Leucadia, Ca.
vdriver
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my revised strategy is to dip a non-delicate rusty part first in cheap white distilled Vinegar, rinse, then finish in Evaporust.
This has been my method for a few years now. Vinegar is MUCH cheaper than Evapo, and works almost as fast.
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Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: dd340]
#2242099
01/27/17 02:40 AM
01/27/17 02:40 AM
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,655 Cut and Shoot, TX
kentj340
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Evapo-Rust is $16 per gallon if you order 5 gallons from Northern Tool & Equipment and pick it up at the store with no freight charge.
If you don't see two dolphins, you need a vacation.
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Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: dd340]
#2242209
01/27/17 12:39 PM
01/27/17 12:39 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,273 fredericksburg,va
cudaman1969
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How often can evaporust be reused? I got very little use out of it, seemed like a one shot deal, open to the air kills it the fastest imo resealible container might help
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Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: cudaman1969]
#2242213
01/27/17 12:49 PM
01/27/17 12:49 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
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hemi71x
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How often can evaporust be reused? I got very little use out of it, seemed like a one shot deal, open to the air kills it the fastest imo resealible container might help Oh ya, never heard that about Evaporust before.
RF-4C Phantom 69-370 Zweibrucken, Germany
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Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: hemi71x]
#2242336
01/27/17 04:27 PM
01/27/17 04:27 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,273 fredericksburg,va
cudaman1969
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How often can evaporust be reused? I got very little use out of it, seemed like a one shot deal, open to the air kills it the fastest imo resealible container might help Oh ya, never heard that about Evaporust before. Yea, even covered it didn't last long, depends on your wallet size.
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Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: cudaman1969]
#2242447
01/27/17 08:40 PM
01/27/17 08:40 PM
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Joined: May 2012
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John Brown
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How often can evaporust be reused? I got very little use out of it, seemed like a one shot deal, open to the air kills it the fastest imo resealible container might help Oh ya, never heard that about Evaporust before. Yea, even covered it didn't last long, depends on your wallet size. My understanding on Evaporust is that it keeps eating on any rust particles in the solution even when put back into a sealed container, even when sealed from air. Also heard that straining or filtering the big and little chunks out of the liquid helps it last longer when not in use. Can't prove any of this by me as it's only hearsay on my part. I am still using that cheep old grocery store vinegar on things I need to de-rust.
July 19th should be "Drive Like Rockford Day". R.I.P. Jimmie.
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Re: Muriatic acid for rust removal
[Re: dd340]
#2242682
01/28/17 10:04 AM
01/28/17 10:04 AM
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Joined: Jan 2006
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http://www.evapo-rust.com/product-info/faqs/Acids "eat at" iron oxide on the surface of a part and send the oxygen off into the liquid in one direction, and the iron in another. ( scientificly: the acid helps the iron and oxygen ions dissociate from the metal surface) Strong acids can do this with iron atoms alone. Strong acids continue to "eat" iron atoms off the metal surface, turn them into ions, and these ions wander off into the liquid. All the metal could eventually disappear this way. The original part would disappear eventually. Evaporust is different. It "buddies up" to the rust molecule at the metal surface and carries the still combined iron and oxygen atoms away together into the liquid. This process has a special name: Chelation. The special difference is that once Chelation has got the iron oxide rust off the metal surface it does not continue and remove pure iron. The original part will not disappear. The above descriptions are simplifications. Please do not report me to the Chemistry departments that might have me tarred and feathered.
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