Your GTX will be way cooler than the over priced VW too!

Sweet project!! I'd love to build something like what you're doing. Any concerns about cowl shake with stickier tires and stiff suspension underneath it? Going to put in a rollcage or 6 point rollbar at all?

There is also a guy running a 68 Roadrunner or look alike I think Its a Hotchkis build.

That's me.

Is your car the one that I see with the numbers 383 on the door? That is a good looking car. I would love to chat about your setup so I can get this thing close. One would be what did you do to enough negative camber. I'm looking to get between -3 to -4. I haven't replaced the upper A arm cam bolts yet but I have been looking.

Bob

You can add thin washers between the steering knuckle/spindle and the lower ball joint to get 2 degrees of additional NEG camber.

I meant camber. If I can get -4 I can set it where I need it. -3 sounds like a good starting point with 0 toe. It may need about 1/8 toe out but we will see how the car is works. My Porsche I can only get -1.2 front and I have -1.8 in the back with 0 toe. I would love -3 on it but I can't run camber plates in Street class so that is all I can get from the adjustment.

This should be interesting.

Yes caster needs to be fixed on Mopars I'm not used to that as you leave Porsche at stock settings. Yes -3 camber is a ton and I wouldn't run over -1.5 on the street but this is a class car and very limited street use. Now lets see about large fronts and large amounts of negative camber. ASP and SSP Porsches with 285 18 fronts running -3 to -3.5 with Hoosers. Mike won the Dixie tour in his Fox body with 275 18 f and 335 18 Rival S with over -3 camber. I may only run -2 or -2.5 and the car maybe happy there but I will be going for the year end trophy. So I need to see how close I can get to 1.5g but I need to hit at least 1.3g. And that is a ton in a B body. I want the adjustment in case it's needed. I do run the complete season plus at least 1 champ Tour. Hey it's all good.

The Porsche you refer to is a strut IFS, ie little camber gain design, liking more initial negative camber, unlike a Mopar unequal arm IFS?

In my experience on cars with unequal length A arms, high static negative cambers numbers are only necessary for softly sprung cars that generate a lot of body roll and/or race on flat surfaces. Also, the unequal length arms create additional negative camber gain as they compress, so a -1* static could translate into a -3* dynamic at 3" of suspension travel depending on your upper/lower arm ratio. Ultimately, your tire temps will tell you what it wants.

Taller spindles will create additional negative camber gain as will shorter upper arms or longer lower arms. Ways to achieve this with stock parts using stock mounting points would be to use A body lower arms, F body disc spindles, and Moog offset upper arm bushings.

All depends on how much effort you want to put into it and how competitive you really want to be. With a full hvac system and a fully insulated passenger compartment, this doesn't appear to be a maximum effort build. Based on some other builds I've seen on the interwebs, I tend to wonder if a truly stock suspension car can really be competitive in the cam classes on a national level at all, but admit some ignorance of the specifics of the classes. Look these for a cam t class car being built on site here; front - https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...tml#Post2187270 and the rear - https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...tml#Post2193251

Unfortunately, for us ambitious Mopar guys winning at a big national level event is a rarity and mostly garage talk (with a streetable B-body). If you can really wheel and there is some heat in the track, you can touch 8th to 12th most likely.

I'm going to see what I can do about that next year with my 'Cuda. Far from stock and stock suspension, but still a Mopar and still steetable.

I will add that 3º with stock mounting points is not needed. We run a tubular QA1 front which uses mostly stock mounting points and we roll out of the shop for competition at 2.1º camber, 6.5º caster and 0 bump. This is at 5¾" ride height, 18"/ 275 front tire.

Unfortunately, for us ambitious Mopar guys winning at a big national level event is a rarity and mostly garage talk (with a streetable B-body). If you can really wheel and there is some heat in the track, you can touch 8th to 12th most likely.

The most aggressive settings we run on the Road Runner and the Challenger is 2.7* Camber and 7-9* Caster. My "default" setting for the Road Runner is 2* Camber and 8* Caster. Very easy to obtain on a straight car with the full Hotchkis TVS.

I wouldn't unless you want the front end low. Like race car low. The optimum ride height to put your compression on the negative-gaining side of the camber curve; the car is plenty low for most folks.

The most critical issue with CAM class is to get your weight down... a Mopar TB suspension can do just fine and be highly competitive... I hope to someday get to the SCCA Nats... I used to attend in national competition running FS and ESP.... the ESP class is great... with some of the BEST ever historical competition for our pony/muscle cars, however, recently there has been some of the import cars (Subarus, Nissans, etc) classified and entering ... and they shouldn't be in that class of ESP... they are much smaller and physically advantaged in their handling over most all the America pony cars.

CAM class is also great... allowing engine mods etc... it was originally intended to attract the Pro-Street surge of cars. True reality is, that a well-setup ESP car can blow away most all Pro-Street cars.

I'm sure you meant "Pro-Touring" though I'd like to see the owners reaction to being tagged "Pro-Street"
And I agree completely with your post!

A properly setup CAM car will be almost like an SCCA C/Prepared car, except ~street legal.

How short is the 285/30/18 in your opinion? I've seen a guy fit it in the front of an A-body, but that's more than an inch shorter than my 255/40/18.

I guess that I think that the tire is to short. With a 3.55 gear at 80 MPH the engine turns at 2,848 rpm and 3,500 with 3.23. Remember that highway speeds are 75 out here in the west so the flow of traffic is like 85. So I would like a taller tire. With soft springs the shorter tire may be better since it has firmer sidewalls. Or you have 2.92 or 3.23 gears it may keep you from changing gears.