When I first turn the key on the AMP meter goes to the discharge / negative position more than it used to , is that a clue? any suggestions? it used to go over a bit now it is in the negative quarter inch or so , thanks for any info.

Here is the previous link.

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/2144014/1.html

Is it still starting OK? I think in the last thread you had it fixed with new cap/rotor.

As far as the amp meter going more negative, easy things first. If any key switched accessory like the radio or heater blower is turned on when you turn the key on the ammeter will drop more.

I agree. Using a meter, you might check current draw between disconnected battery cable and battery post. Is door open with dome light on? Brake lights off???

You can pull fuses to ensure that nothing else might be an issue. If still concerned I might disconnect alternator wiring to note if this changes anything. You have not added an MSD type box lately???

It started fine after I installed a new distributor cap but it did not start again , nothing is on in the car so I am wondering where the AMP draw is. No MSD box was installed , just a stock Mopar Performance distributor system but it ran fine until now.

Disconnect the heavy wire from the alt and see what happens.Rocky

I will disconnect the wire and see what happens , thanks for the info.

magnetic pickup in distributor. 2 or 3 times i've had stock electronic ignition try to fire as key was turned off and a new mag pickup cured it.

Bypass your ammeter. Connect both wires to one post and see what happens. My rig would crank just fine but would not start. I connected both wires to one post and it has started just fine since. The amp gauges are notorious for causing problems.

I posted this on original thread 8-30-2016. Nowhere does it appear that you have hot wired from positive on battery with a jumper to your electronic ignition, bypassing ignition switch and all wiring and associated connectors. Have you tried this. Here is copy and paste of 8-30- post;


The consistently most asked and answered question that I see on the forum. Right above or below rear main seal leaks.

Perhaps should be either a 'sticky' or in a new category of 'Most asked and Answered'.

When it does not start, run a jumper from battery positive to coil positive ( or appropriate for differing flavors of electronic ignitions). If engine then starts and runs:

Work backward thru wiring, bulkhead, connectors ignition switch etc. to find failure point using a meter or test light.

Likely no more than 20 minutes for most all electrical failure to start conditions.

These 50 year old connectors, ballast and wiring systems are not invincible.

Here is what I found , the gap between the pick up coil and reluctor was .020 , I set it to .008 , real tight .010 so it fired right up but I checked it again and after the vacuum advance was applied it seems to change a bit (bigger gap) the advance plate is a little loose / wobbely when it moved but this seems normal as everything is tight , this is a Mopar performance distributor , I applied vacuum remotely to see if it was moving freely and it is and it is working / advancing , the gap gets a bit bigger when vacuum is applied (is this normal) so I reset it to .008 and it starts right up , thanks for all your time to discuss this.