The 440 is sitting in my garage now! I was expecting a late 70's cast crank slug, turns out this is a thin dampener forged crank '72/'73 440! It even came with a dual snorkel air cleaner too!

I also have the Dakota chassis almost totally stripped down, while I have the cherry picker out I'll get the 3.9/904 yanked out.

Now I just need to get some buddies lined up for some heavy lifting, get the body off whats left of the original chassis, and get the new chassis whipped up and under the car!

I thought you said you were considering a slant six?! But that 440/727 will be sweet, lots of torque and dependable!

Why not move the body while you have a cherry picker available? Lots safer, and easier on backs, and friends. Gene

Set up the body on some 4X4s so the highest point of the chassis is lower than the lowest point of the body, and spread the stands wide enough so that the frame can roll under the body. You can also use a plumb-bob to figure out what needs trimming or fixing on the body and the frame this way. Wait until the body is mounted before finalizing the motor placement.
Take a look at the third picture in the thread.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256902

I'd also suggest that you hold onto the old frame until you have the new one all set up. Even though the entire front is missing, you never know when some part or chunk might be needed.

Thanks guys! Won't be the first time I've had a MoPar Business Coupe off it's frame!

Besides, they aren't that heavy once you strip all the junk out of 'em!

Okay, I made some progress.

First off, I'll say that I haven't had any time to take more measurements or get out in the garage and play with it since I got it on the frame, so it isn't anywhere near finished.



This is the body just resting on the unshortened frame.

Original wheelbase for the '40 Dodge was 119 inches, the internet says this 1987 Dakota Chassis was either 111 or 123 inches, this one is the latter. I have to take 4 inches out of it somewhere.

The rear of the body sits really high because the shape and length of the stock Dakota rear framerails. The stock '40 rails had more of a downward "swoop".



Interestingly, the Dakota frame is about 38" straight back from the firewall, whereas the original frame was a bit wider.

Combined with the lack of floors, the narrow frame enables me to channel the car over the frame quite easily. I can get the ride height I desire while leaving full suspension travel.


So that's where I'm at with it right now. I might be slingin' an engine in my truck this weekend, but if that falls through you know I'll be working on the Coupe!

The full turn-by-turn is here: 1940 Dodge Coupe progress 7/21/09

Wow, I didn't know you were floorless!
Looks like the back part will be pretty easy; remove the frame rails just behind the rear spring hangers and drop the body down to where you want.

Did you measure where the crank centerline and trans output centerline were before removing, so you have an idea where you want the new ones to line up?

Aside from all the floor fabrication which you were going to have to do anyway, it looks like it's going to be easier than it started out like.

Were there any tubs you can use on the truck to mini-tub the rear body? Can you use the cab floor and the cab back for floor sections?

The rear wheels look like they are in the proper position. The OE frame doesn't extend all the way to the edge of the body, so as long as the body mounts on the sides are built, it's all good.
The only other thing to consider is the bumper mounts, but that's minor compared to the floor, shortening the chassis and fab'ing the motor and trans mounts. Plus the front sheetmetal/radiator mount.

comming along nicely

Thanks for the support guys!!

I think I'll be taking the material out of the frame behind the middle of the frame where its flat and straight, should make it easier to weld back together and box for extra strength.

The rear wheelwells are about where they should be in relation to the axle, but I do have a measurement to make sure. I'll probably eyeball it, too, just to make sure they look "centered" in the wheelwell openings, both front and rear.

The engine will go as low and far back as reasonably possible.

What size tires did the 40's cars run stock? 6.00-16s?

That is really looking great, keep up the good work

you probably have already seen these pics of where we shortened the dakota chassis under the 46 PU.
but here is the link again,
if you want to see how we did it Ron...

http://rides.webshots.com/album/300985977tszAFe




.