I have a B blocked stroked to 505 and is in the neighborhood of 600 HP.
I used the mighty mounts and I'm wondering if I should look into a torque strap.
Many years ago I experienced a failed stock motor mount on the driver's side and the 440 went WOT in a school parking lot. That is a ride I don't want to experience again.
Should just the mount be enough or should I add a strap?

I just ordered one myself. Have Mighty Mounts and in the neighborhood as far as HP as well. Just added insurance

I made my own. There's a thread on here you can find with the Google search feature that walks you through using two grade 8 bolts through the drivers side motor mount. Worked like a charm. It's basically a cheaper and stronger version of the Schumacher mounts. I also used a turnbuckle on the passenger side head to the k-frame. Way less motor rock which meant more power through the drivetrain and to the wheels.

A torque strap is a necessity if the car is a 4 speed..

Just my $0.02...

The whole idea of Mity Mounts is to prevent rubber/steel separation during hard acceleration, they shouldn't need an additional torque strap.

http://www.mitymounts.com/howtheywork.htm

Mighty Mount or torque strap. You do not need both.





Roe, what is this for reverse?

It still works on the same premise, just takes some of the load so its not all on the the driver side. Motor tries to compress against the turnbuckle on the passenger side at the same time it's pulling against the "torque strap" on driver side. Both prevent the motor from trying to rotate towards the passenger side. 2 are stronger than 1. And like mentioned it spreads the force out instead of all on the drivers side.

roe

edit: same idea as solid mounts on both sides but without the vibrations

It also depends a lot on usage, setup and tires. For example, I run a pretty warm 496 and 5 speed with older style Schumacher thru bolt poly mount on the driver side and regular poly on the pass side. The car is set up for road race and gets used that way... including HSAX with standing starts. With 200 TW "handling" tires no issues with either mounts, clutch or the 8.75 rear.

If I put slicks on it and made hard launches on a prepped drag track, probably a different story. I don't know what would break first between engine mounts, clutch and rear end but I am pretty sure one or all three would let go pretty fast.

4 sp or auto - 2 torque straps should be used, one on each side. While the left side is being pulled the right side is being compressed. Putting only one on creates an imbalance esp with high hp applications. It still allows the motor to twist - twisting the exhaust system on the right side against the hangers and over time will tear the right side hangers. If the car has headers and you had pics of the car under power you would see the collector being pushed to the ground. This is not a guess.

I used Mighty Mounts when I installed the 440 in my 4 speed Challenger.


I took the car for a test ride with the hood off and during hard acceleration the engine moved/torqued too much for my liking so I made a torque strap from a turnbuckle and a small section of chain. I have it adjusted so it only gets tight if the engine really move a good amount.
It has worked fine for 6 years now.

The Mighty Mounts seem like quality products and I'm probably just being over cautious but the torque strap was cheap and easy to install.

Thanks everyone for your comments.
I probably should have told you more about the car.
I am running a 727 and 10 inch Mickey Thompson's in the back.
Right now I have the stock 8 3/4 rearend with the Calvert setup. We'll see how long the rear lasts.
The car will be driven to local shows but I will also drag race in the car club challenge with our club.

I think the mounts would be fine by themselves but I think I will add a strap just for peace of mind.
Thanks again.