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67-69 Barracuda Notchback's What to know? #212930
02/03/09 01:12 PM
02/03/09 01:12 PM
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 947
Goodyear Arizona
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midnite360 Offline OP
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midnite360  Offline OP
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Goodyear Arizona
I wan't one. What are the best things to look for what can you guys tell me about these cars!? All info is appreciated

Re: 67-69 Barracuda Notchback's What to know? [Re: midnite360] #212931
02/03/09 02:26 PM
02/03/09 02:26 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 304
Ohio
LS-300 Offline
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Ohio
First off you may need to decide which one you like best. All 3 are different. The fronts are similar between 67 & 68 but very different for 69. All 3 years have different rear ends as well. After you decide which you prefer 1st, 2nd, and 3rd you should start looking. As you look watch out for RUST. Rust is a pain!!
The main places for rust are the lower parts of the fenders and quarters, floor boards, frame rails including torsion bar mounts and trunk pan. The less rust the better. There are a lot of after market parts for these cars but some of the trim parts are hard to come by and getting overly expensive. Good luck and enjoy


1979 Chrysler 300 1968 Barracuda project
Re: 67-69 Barracuda Notchback's What to know? [Re: LS-300] #212932
02/03/09 03:30 PM
02/03/09 03:30 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,465
Carson City, NV
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babarracuda Offline
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Carson City, NV
I have a 67. I would look for a 68 or 69. The 67 has idler arm suport issues. The 67 steering column lower bearing is not availble so you are in trouble if it goes bad like mine did. Non pitted hood inserts are rare. I would look for a 69 if I were looking now.

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Re: 67-69 Barracuda Notchback's What to know? [Re: LS-300] #212933
02/03/09 03:43 PM
02/03/09 03:43 PM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,318
Southern Maryland
klunick Offline
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Southern Maryland
As was stated, each one of these cars has some unique parts to it. First off, I have heard that finding new rear window trim for the notches is kind of difficult. Much easier for the FBs as 68-69 was the same. There are unique parts that are always messed up and $$$ to get fixed right. Almost all 67's are missing the lower rear trunk trim. You can now buy the repop stuff and it is close but not perfect. If you decide to go OEM, it will cost $1000 for just those 2 pieces if you can find them. Almost all the headlight surround(aluminum) have been damaged and are $$ to get fixed. The 68 with the vertical fins seems to be the priciest as you can find 67 in decent shape but not 68's(at least one fin broken). They now make tail light lenses and housing for all 3 years. 68 hood inserts are easy to find in good shape, 67's are impossible and there is no chance for repopping these so it is off to the chromer. 69 does not have hood inserts. Quarter skins are available for all 3 years as are lower fender patches and front floorboards. Layson's also makes the rear valance with the single or dual exhaust cutouts. Floor rot specifically on the passenger front(heater core) should be looked for. Inner wheel houses are usually pretty decent, but the outers will need to be inspected really good. Check the frame good. These cars were only made with 14 gauge steel frames and mine was rotting from the inside out. Finally, I personally would look for a car from the west coast or one that was already done. You can buy a nice one for $10-15k but it will cost you much more to buy a project and fix it up. Oh yeah, they use the small bolt pattern wheels which are pretty hard to find(5x4). Many folks convert them to the big bolt(5x4 1/2). This not only means more wheel choice but also switching to the 73+front suspension that uses spool motor mounts, beefier suspension, and larger parts availability. I have noticed that 67's seem to be the least wanted so perhaps you could get a better deal on one. This is probably due to the higher performance stuff not really being available until 68. At BJ this year there was a really nice 67 notch that went for $20k. It was not a resto but a modded car with a 340. Well, 340's were not available until 68 so that means the 68-69 cars are generally more desired. You also found more big blocks in the later years although the 383 was offered late in 67.


67 Barracuda FB 69 Superbee "Southern Maryland: If you want a good looking woman, you had better bring her with you"
Re: 67-69 Barracuda Notchback's What to know? [Re: klunick] #212934
02/03/09 03:56 PM
02/03/09 03:56 PM
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 947
Goodyear Arizona
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midnite360 Offline OP
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Thanks a lot for the info guy's... Ya I was leaning more towards a 69 Just for the 440 lol. Man would that be sweet!

Re: 67-69 Barracuda Notchback's What to know? [Re: midnite360] #212935
02/03/09 06:26 PM
02/03/09 06:26 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 304
Ohio
LS-300 Offline
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Posts: 304
Ohio
If you do go with the 69 I have heard that the flat hood is the same as the 73? Dart. Good to know if you need one.


1979 Chrysler 300 1968 Barracuda project
Re: 67-69 Barracuda Notchback's What to know? [Re: midnite360] #212936
02/03/09 06:37 PM
02/03/09 06:37 PM
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,344
Cincinnati, OH
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6T6Cuda Offline
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Cincinnati, OH
See my list here for the differences. https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...&PHPSESSID=

Most of the trim is easier to find for '68 then a '67; but of coarse I have a '67

Re: 67-69 Barracuda Notchback's What to know? [Re: LS-300] #212937
02/03/09 11:44 PM
02/03/09 11:44 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,127
Ramona, CA
NicksGarage Offline
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Ramona, CA
Quote:

If you do go with the 69 I have heard that the flat hood is the same as the 73? Dart. Good to know if you need one.




Yes, the '69 hood is the same shape as the '73-76 Darts. Looks the same on the outside but the underneath looks different because of added crumple areas on the Dart version. Bolts on and fits fine. So if you want to cut a big hole in your Barracuda hood, get a dart one and save your original Barracuda one for the future.

I've always wondered why they went to the trouble to use an existing hood design when there was a 3 year gap between when it was last used. Just one of those odd trivia items with Chrysler.







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