'70 340 parked years ago because of no fire in the "start" position.

I am not handy with a multi-meter at all, my question is if I can unhook the starter (putting a mini in anyway) and find the wiring issue with a test light and Helper moving the key for me?

Thanks. No matter how many times this issue comes up, I still don't get it, other than the fact that it's either a blue or yellow wire that's loose-or I might even have that wrong.

Have a new Starter switch if needed. Currently just using a 60 amp momentary switch to start it: and after many years it's music to the ears to hear that lumpy 340 again.

Pull the yellow wire off of the relay while testing so the starter doesn't spin. Start under the dash at the connector at the bottom of the steering column. Make sure you have power at the brown wire on both sides of the connector while the key is in the "start" position. If that's good, move to the bulkhead connector and make sure you have power on both sides of that. Then move to the ballast exc...

(1) put shifter in park (2) pull female yellow wire terminal off of the "ign" terminal on the starter relay (3) jump fire to the male "ign" terminal that you just pulled the yellow wire terminal off of. if it cranks then there is an open somewhere inbetween the "st" terminal on the ign switch and the "ign" male yellow wire terminal on the starter relay. possibilities are (A) connector on ign sw (early) (2) dangling connector under st column (later years) (3) bulkhead. if it dont crank when you jump (to) that terminal, holler but I understood that it did (you mentioned momentary contact switch)

Yeah, see, I even had the blue and yellow wrong.

By your diagram Burdar it has to be the brown wire (as long as A body wire color is same for E's)

Thanks RR, as usual.

This and somewhat similar issues caused by a faulty ignition switch connector to dash harness or a failing bulkhead connector comes up often.

This colored schematic is the best I've seen to illustrate and assist in troubleshooting these quite similar electrical starting and running gremlins, and might be deemed worthy as a ' sticky' in a yet to be created most common Mopar problems category.

With caveat that certain models may have slightly differing schematics.

Good find.

Agree 100%.

Update:

Bulkhead connector.

Disconnected it, scraped all the connectors on both sides with a pick-tool, wire-brushed and blasted it with compressed air. Works flawless now, thanks you Guys!

Sorry for the late update, got sidetracked with going through this six bbl after being in storage for a number of years. Sunk float, seized needle and seat, and a few other things got in the way.

But, 210 mile round trip to a car-show yesterday makes it all worth it. No issues.