I know many people have run Chinese stuff w/o problems, but when they happen they're $$$.
You can correct the dims (but that reduces the price advantage), it's the inclusion/heat-treat/alloy stuff you can't see that makes me nervous.

Just like the stock market: you have to know your risk tolerance.

Damn John, don't sugar coat it.

THe PEP rod is like any rod. Check it and go from there. If the things need any work they go back to hughes. Simple.

My eagle rods needed work too. Hell the rods in many engine builds on here need work.

If im dumb enough to buy them, stick them in and run them and it goes bang, yeah my problem as I didn't check.

How many guys run 440 sources junk and have no issues? a lot. This is a very mild build. No reason to spend big coin.

If the block wasn't rough bored to .040 over I wouldn't be worried to run a resized LY, but its not worth it to stick over 350-400 bucks into my stock rods.

He must own the company that makes Oliver or Lentz rods and Chinese products sicken him.
I wouldn't hesitate to use them with the expectation that Hughes would make it right if they were really out of shape, but damn they are heavy

Yeah they are heavy....

Ill give ya that LOL

Whats a stock set of LYs weigh? Ive never checked....

Just googled it,

A guy on Abodies forum said they weigh 860, and 920 with bearings, so these are actually heavier.

440Source stuff isn't cheap junk, there are many stroker kits in board members' cars and they have shown themselves to be dependable. Your slam on them was unnecessary.

Hughes' less expensive stuff seems to work all right, they have a reputation to protect. Any manmade item can have flaws.

Reality is what I've posted before, the stock block will give up long before the connecting rod, if it has a 7/16" bolt. Lightening up the piston makes the connecting rod's job easier, so putting $$$ into a piston first makes sense to me.

I believe that PEP is the successor to C.A.T., and I'd put them in the lower end of the spectrum, yet they're still stronger than the block. I believe Uncle Cab has used either a CAT crank or set of rods in his racecar with no failures.

For calculations, the aftermarket rods usually list length as 6.760, 0.008 shorter than stock length.

R.

The complaint about the rods being heavy is hilarious coming from a board using the heaviest pistons in the known universe!

Yes I slammed 440 source, just because my first hand experience.


Head castings very sketchy, the few rods of theirs Ive used were sketchy at best, and I know of a few other guys with huge crankshaft issues, so no I prolly shouldn't have slammed them on such a broad spectrum, but I did.

I agree with your piston theory, I have DIamond slugs in 3 of the engines I have, I like them a lot, I continue to use them.

Such is why Im using them on this low power engine.

R.

The complaint about the rods being heavy is hilarious coming from a board using the heaviest pistons in the known universe! [/quote]

I personally would rather have a meaty rod since I never encounter the need for a ultra light fast revving bottom end.

Surely you are familiar with bobweight calculations and realize that the weight of big end of the rod with bearings has a more significant impact than the reciprocating end? Pay for ONE balance job where you put mallory into a stock crank and it wouldn't be hilarious any more. Not saying that this is his situation but it is always wise to use lighter than stock components on these type of builds

mallory at my local shop is ridiculous, like 100 bucks a slug

I wish I did

I asked a legit question , are these 4340 ... or whatever the chinese are passing off as 4340 these days , or are they 5140, which is the same as a stock LY rod ?

The confusing part is they are listed as 750 Hp and the other rods they sell listed with more specs and listed for a couple hundred more is rated for 800HP . the I beam rod is stronger by design than an H beam so WHY is this CCJ rod rated at less HP ??

It's not my engine, or my money, he can use whatever he wants ...

the 4340 material is a ANSI spec so if its Chinese, Italian, German, Russian, or American steel, if its sold here it has to pass that spec, so 4340 is 4340.

It is my engine, and the rod should be just fine in any engine, especially if checked over. This is going to be balanced also so that's gonna aid in the debate as well.

If it blows up Ill post it and take the heat, but a 440 cranked 383 at 433ish CI balanced with lower compression and a decent cam on mild valvtrain isn't going to go much north of 6500 RPM, so it should live just fine.

THis was an honest post asking an honest question not intended to be a pissing match.

So you really think the Chinese, or others, don't lie ??



... good luck with the build

Ummm that'll put your CR at around 7:1 with a 440 crank.

Darth, I have the wrong stroke on there, its 3.75

Even if you didnt the comp distance would tell you you'd be close to .20 out of the hole

Yah..

Those pistons will sit 0.179 in the hole @ a 9.98" Deck height.

BS

[censored]... positive .179 LMFAO. Sorry