I'll be picking up a '65 Belvedere roller. It is tubbed with a full and certified rollcage. All steel. I have a 600HP BB and auto for it. It has a 8 3/4 rear but I have a narrowed Dana that was set up for a Scamp. It has a crossbar welded in for a ladder bar. So, 4 link, ladder bar or Caltrac?

Myself... 4 link first.. then ladder bar... has
this been back halved or just set up for a ladder
bar
EDIT
see what you can do to make the dana fit... I have a
real narrow 8 3/4 but check to see if you can find
wheels to fit.. I like short axles but big off set
wheels have their issues also and are hard to find

I've had two A bodys(Dusters) with ladder bars, the first one had leaf springs with a floater set up and the secod one had coil overs with a diagonal link. Both would hook up in a mud puddle in the middle of a rain storm AKA, aside both cars ran low tens and went straight as arrow, dulpicated times and the first oneLadder bars and leaf springs on a floater) won the 1984 Division 7 Pro Bracket championship at Bakersfields My current tube chassis bracket car has a 4 link with Koni duoble adjustable coil overs and it goes straight and repeats times also I haven't touch the 4 link other than looking and measuring it, the car had a blown B1 KB block on Methanol before I bought it. It had went 6.85 ET at 186 MPH with a 300+ lb driver 8 years ago or so I put a 400 block 505 C.I. bracket motor on E85 in it, it has rana best of 9.003 at 147 MPH with no tuning for that track. My message is it's your choice, both ladder bars and 4 link will work excellent once there set up properly Cal Tracs, not so much, not so easy

That's probably a low 10 second deal depending on weight. All things being equal, 4-link, 9 inch, all day long. Sorry, I have guys with Danas and they can't find gear ratios they need along with other issues that don't exist with a full steel housing. But, you have a Dana that may work as is.

But...If it's already set up for a ladder bar, there would likely have to be a lot of work done to get a decent 4-link in it. You may not want to go there. Ladder bar will work, but you'll have to put good shocks on it. Dana is up to you, but if I had to build a rear, it would be a 9". Just saying.

I have has a few 64-65 B Bodies. Either Caltracs or Ladder bar. IMO for what you want a ladder bar deal would be very easy to accomplish and get you going quickly with minimal outlay of cash. It will work great. I had a 65 Belvedere street car that had a 451 and Caltracs and went 10.50's with no issues.

We sold, well traded this one off last year. It is a ladder bar deal and has ben in the 10's. New owner is running NSS with it now. I hear it will be in an upcoming issue od Dragzine and FSC Magazine!!

My 65 Belvedere II. Best elapsed time was 10.04 at Norwalk. Car has a 451, 1050 dominator, 13 to 1 compression, Edelbrock heads, solid cam. CAL tracks with Rancho adjustable shocks. Best 60 foot time was 1.38, average is 1.40 to 1.44 depending on the track. Mine is also all steel except the hood. Weight is 3350. Motor made 649 hp on the Dyno. Good luck with your ride.

Cal-Trac for street and ladders for race. Ladders put a lot of stress on the chassis when going over uneven roads, in&rout of driveways, parking lots, things like that. Not saying they won't work but something to think about.

Car is not backhalfed. The cross bar for the ladder bar is only tacked on. I've had good success with the CalTrac in my 2900lbs A body that makes about 475HP. So I figure 3600lbs with about 550-600HP. If I go with the CalTrac will the Ranchos work or will another shock be better with this combo?

All the best whichever way you go, love 63-65 B Bodies

Ranchos will work. I have them on my 68 satellite. About 520hp now has gone 10.88s . Better shocks may improve it some more . Gone 1.49 footbrake mostly 1.52-1.54

Tex

al what size rim in the back on that car

Depends on how quick, amount of $ to spend, and intended use. Plenty of cars in the 10's on Cal tracks. They are very streetable. Ladder bars are cheaper and lighter than Cal-Tracks. I don't feel they're very good for the street as they limit body roll, but work well at the track. A 4 link with a anti-roll ball is the top of the heap. Good rod ends aren't cheap and will wear with enough street use so they will be a maintenance item. I have a friend whose 64 Dodge gets by with Rancho 9 ways and S/S springs. Car runs very consistent 10.60's on 9x28. My car has been as quick as 1.25/9.02. Stock rear frame, 10.5 and ladder bars. It does require some track prep to be consistent. In summary If it's going to be street driven as well I'd go Cal-Track. Strip only well into the nines ladder bars.
Doug

[/quote] al what size rim in the back on that car [/quote]

15x10 Holeshot

"The cross bar for the ladder bar is only tacked on."

Whatever route you decide, I would knock that out and start from square one with whatever system you chose. Too may guys out there with $300 welders and can't read a tape measure or level.

Thanks AL

Been a 1.33 on 5 way Ranchos in the rear and 90-10`s up front footbrakin and soon to be quicker.......

No rims yet. I heard that some of the NSS events only approve 10.5 max. I'm figuring 12" will be the largest that will be used.

For NMCA and Victory,tire size 10.5x33W max, 26x4.5 min, I've never seen a rim restriction.
Doug