Hi Rich, thank you!

I won't be running any boost or Nitrus, so I will buy the 1 bar.


BR, Mark

Thanks Mopar_Rich. I'm still new to EFI, but trying to learn more as I go. I might have some questions on connecting a flex fuel sensor to the FAST 2.0?
I was looking over the manual for the FiTech and the tuning options look pretty good, but the AFR and Timing matrix are only 3x3? I'm guessing the software is interpolating the 3x3 matrix at finer granularity?

I guess I am happy with the FITech, but this is an instance where you get what you pay for...There is a complete lack of documentation, and no information on the tuning software. For some reason mine did not include the drivers to connect the handheld to my PC, and they haven't been able to send this to me after 2 months of back and forth.

The handheld unit has a 3x3 matrix. It does interpoltae between the 3x3, but one thing I don't like is the breakpoints are 45, 95, 180kPa MAP. So for a NA engine, you have only a 2x3, plus an "idle" point

I had read somewhere that in the PC software you could modify the base fuel/spark tables which were supposedly 10x12. I have found the breakpoint definition arrays for spark and VE, however, I have not been able to find the Spark and VE tables that correspond with theses breakpoints. They have 4 different cam settings, each with its own ~9x9 VE mult surf. Once I drove around and collected some data, I started modifying the VE mult surf by the long term fuel adaptation to get the base surface closer. I am +/- 5% fuel trims now, where previously it was correcting up to 30%.

I think they system is plenty capable for a basic TBI retrofit, but it sounds like they offer no advanced tuning support. I think the intended market is essentially they guy who bolts on the box stock carb, is too lazy to get it tuned correctly, gives up and thinks EFI will solve all his problems.

Another complaint/comment, is the data logging. it has pre-loaded data log windows, and you can only record the 20-30 channels in that window at any time, you cannot record everything at once.

There is absolutely no reason to NOT run speed density. That's what I use on virtually everything. The Corvette Drag Week car from Canada has an 875" 5.3 bore space motor, that makes nearly 1700hp on nuts. It is speed density, coil on plug and even has drive by wire throttle bodies

Monte,

Are you running the Holley Dominator? And are you running dual O2 sensors?

Holley seems to think that dual HTK 02 sensors would be the way to go...since the Holly HP ECU only supports one 02 sensor, it looks like you need to spend another $1000.00 to get the dual support, and a boat load of inputs that I will never need.

What do you think?

BR, Mark

On ANY race car and most hot street cars.......Yes, I use the Dominator ECU and NTK sensors. I think you need on O2 on each bank. I even have a Dominator on my boat. The only vehicles I use one O2 on are turbo applications and some milder combos I consider daily drivers. I have HP ECUs on my jeep and my tow truck. But I ALWAYS opt for the NTK sensor.

We(Holley) realize that many want a second O2 option, but don't need all the extra inputs and outputs the Dominator gives. Along those lines, we are working on an "add on" that will allow a second O2 on an HP based system. But I don't know where that stands at the moment

Hi Monte,

Thank you for the information on the Holley ECU's. I am planning to run dual 1000 cfm throttle bodies, and Holley has two that I am interested in:

Holley 112-577 which is the machined billet unit that sells for around $560.00 each

Holley 112-588 which is the cast unit that sells for around $360.00 each.

Question is, which one is better in a dual configuration, and why?

Sorry for all of the questions, I just want to make sure I order correctly the first time.

Thank you again, Mark

Neither, they are air valves. Nothing more, nothing less. One is pretty

I Monte,

Ok, which ones would you buy in a dual configuration? Or is there something else you would recommend?


BR, Mark

Monte...well I talked with Jegs Tech support and he told me that 4 out of 10 Holley efi items that they sell comes back due to poor satisfaction. He also told me that the Billet throttle body is much better because of better throttle plate/shaft tolerances, and the cast ones come back with broken ears and are loose.

I was trying to get information on the new Holley EFI programmer/dash unit, because the 5.7" display unit is $716.00 and the new unit is $799.00 and has a bigger screen.

Since I do not have a laptop, I was interested in the programmer with the most features.

Any advice on your end?

Thank you, Mark

I am not sure what you want me to tell you. If you want billet, buy the billet. If you want to save some money, use the cast ones. Carbs been cast for years and shafts and not a problem, these won't be either.

The "NEW" dash is much more user friendly than the older unit.

On a side note..........I feel certain the guy at Jegs is "full of it" on the returns numbers. My bet is people usually get sent the wrong stuff in the first place and then they have to return it.

Most people don't know EFI, so they rely on the "guy" on the phone to tell them what they need. Not sure Jegs or Summit even HAS that guy who really knows this stuff.

Mopar Rich and myself on the board are Holley dealers. I actually work FOR Holley and Rich does this for a living. Get with one of us for what you REALLY need based on what you want to do. Holley now has MAP pricing structure, so any dealer can sell it to you for the same prices as Jegs

That guy at Jegs is FULL OF IT... I have the Holley Dominator
and love it... bolt it on and set the program in your computer
in your case you will have to take the whole computer out to
the shop.. program it and use the computer to monitor it in the
shop... they did forget 1 small plug but when I talked to the
Holley tech he said what I was missing and sent it right out
and I had it fired up on the second day...then let it learn..
its been running great and it does have a ton of power... its
quicker than my carb set up on the revs
EDIT
I bought mine through Monte.. he saved me a pile full
of money just on the hand held read out that I thought
I had to have... he said the lap top is all he uses..
so thats all I use on mine.... and for the price of lap
tops its worth the price to get a lap top... JMO

Thank you Monte and Mike,

The guy at Jegs had me wondering what to do...I made a commitment to buy from Mopar Rich, so that is who I will buy from. I called Jegs because Holley would not return my call for information on the new programmers/displays.

Bad idea calling Jegs for support.

Since I do not have a laptop, I want to make sure that I buy a programmer/display that will do everything. Looks like the new $799.00 unit that Holley just announced.

On throttle bodies, Holley sells a billet Race, billet street?, and two cast units in the 1000cfm 4150 versions, however I read that one of them is 1:1 linkage on the primary to secondary throttle plates. I did not want 1:1, so that is really what I wanted to know.

Thanks guys!

This is my 4500 throttle body..its billet

Hi Mike,

Holley makes one like that in 4150, and one 4150 that is a "race" billet, but the Holley site does not tell you what the differences are.

Is yours 1:1 or progressive?

BR, Mark

I prefer 1:1 even on a street car and here is why..........FIRST, this is not a carb. Progressive linkage on a carb, is usually to keep the car from stumbling when you snap all that air blade open and the carb can't deliver the fuel fast enough. That won't happen with EFI. If I have 4 blades, I want them all working in unison to provide an equal flow of air to the plenum. The rest is just in the tune.

Remember, the throttle body is just strictly an air valve. It does NOTHING else. I want the flow even through it, not half of it, until I decide to stand on it.

Yes it does tell you the difference. The standard throttle body has progressive linkage and the levers for a Ford kickdown and that type stuff. The RACE throttle body flows exactly the same, but has an external linkage that is adjustable for either 1;1 or progressive. These are both cast and is the same throttle body housing and design used in NASCAR.
The billet throttle body is self explanatory....it's Billet.

The billet is of no benefit, unless you just WANT billet. My choice would be the "Race" throttle body, because of the linkage

So who is going to be the first to make a 4500 bolt pattern TBI?

Hopefully nobody. Not sure why anyone would want such a thing.

Several companies, us included make one with a plate under the TB with regular injectors, but can't see the need for true TBI with 4500 size air flow

So a 4150 rated for 1200hp is ok, but us guys that want the same thing without an adapter in a 4500 is not...Logically, your argument makes no sense...I can't understand why you wouldn't.