Bit of back story: About a year ago I picked up a 97 ram off a former coworker. He was driving it until the transfer case went out on it then parked it. After it sat for 3-4 years I bought it. I never did much with it other than starting it up a couple times.

Recently I found the transfer case still works in 4-lo so this weekend I decided to use it around the yard to move my boat trailer. This was the first real warm day we've had (86F) that I've run it. After about 20 minutes of running, mostly idling it stalled. Hop back in the truck, restart and hear a ticking sound coming from the engine, followed by a slightly surging idle, then stalled. Try to restart, now it won't fire. Came back an hour later, hit the key and it fired up great. Ran perfect for 15 seconds then the ticking started again. Hit the throttle to move the truck, ticking went away at 1500 rpm and I was able to move the truck. Let off the throttle and it died.

Any thoughts? I'm thinking injection pump, but the transfer case problem makes me think the truck was being driven until high gear let go.

Your fuel shut off solenoid may not be pulling in.

http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge-2-1-2-spacing-super-solenoid-mechanics-complete-fix-kit.html

I should add the previous owner installed a push-pull cable and bypassed the fuel solenoid. I will take a look at it to see if the shutoff lever is getting it's full travel with the cable. However that solenoid you linked is reasonably priced if I decide to fix it.

The surging before it dies indicates it's starving for fuel. With the ticking noise also at the same time I would bet it's the transfer pump that is failing. Try pumping up the fuel system using the primer button on the side of the transfer pump. I usually use a broom handle to do this since it is hard to reach from under the hood. There is a 10 mm bleeder screw on top of the fuel filer housing. It is on one of the banjo bolts securing the fuel lines to the housing. Crack the bleeder loose and press the primer button while watching for fuel flow out of the bleeder. Keep pressing the primer until you get fuel without air or foam. If it won't pump fuel then you either have a bad transfer pump or a leak somewhere. They are known to have air leaks in the suction and return side of the low pressure fuel system. Common things to go wrong are dry rotted fuel hoses from engine to frame behind the injection pump. These are a pain to change and can cause all kinds of issues while not actually leaking on the ground. The fuel heater mounted off to the side of the transfer pump can also warp and cause loss of prime. If you live in a warm climate the heater element can be removed to prevent one less trouble area. Simply unscrew the metal bowl off of the bottom of the fuel heater, remove the heating element adapter fitting using the proper Allen wrench, and thread the lower cap back on the heater mount sans the element. I recommend taking this cap off and cleaning the pre screen inside wether or not you decide to ditch the heating element.

Is it possible to run a hose right from the lift pump to a jerry can of fuel? At least that would bypass the heater and lines to the tank to eliminate that as a possibility.

My 94 Cummins had an issue where a loop of factory rubber fuel line between (I think..) the lift pump and the fuel filter went thru an Adel clamp on the block and right there the hose decided to split, sucking air. Was hard to find as it was buried back behind the fuel filter area and up high.