Got a few updates from my own project. Just finished my 416 a few weeks ago. Waiting on some gaskets and then it goes back in the car with the rebuilt trans. I have not driven the car since November of 2014.

The 416 makes enough steam to where I am anticipating needing a roll bar so I'm starting up my weight loss program again. I would really like to get my car down to 2,900 or less. Last time I weighed it at the metal recycling place by my house it was 3,060 without me and a full tank of gas so it's around 3,200 'race ready'.

As discussed here recently, I know some of the internals in the motor are lighter for sure. I could easily feel the difference between the new ported RHS/Indys and my old as-cast W2 heads but I did not weigh them, wish I would have. The Diamond stroker pistons are WAY lighter, probably by a several pounds each. The old TRW 340 pop up pistons weighed a ton, they were like bricks. I can't remember the bob weights at the moment but it was light. No more cast-iron filter adapter, no more windage tray (pan has a 'built in' crank scraper) lighter fasteners throughout. Maybe 1/2 lb. of aluminum was ground off the intake when I gasket matched it. Kept the March serp belt pulleys and Denso alt from the old combo.

As for the chassis, the first step will be switching out the brakes. Putting Wilwoods on, maybe this week if I can swing it. Should save some weight over my current SSBC/KH aluminum caliper set up since I will be ditching the OE cast iron hubs for aluminum. The 10" drum spindles might save a little weight over the disc brake spindles themselves but not much. The disc spindles have two extra threaded bosses to attach the caliper but the Wilwoods use a bracket. Didn't much like the SSBC brakes much, they were not great. Wheels will probably be a wash between my old school SBP Centerline Autodrags and old school LBP Fenton Gyros. Staying with the same size 165R15 front runner tires.

After hemming and hawing about it for years, I finally bit the bullet and ordered a fancy aluminum fuel tank from Hot Rod City Garage last week. I seem to be drawn to better mousetrap type things like that. I was hesitant to pull the trigger though because frankly, the price seems insane for what it is. (a gas tank)

Any 'real world cost' is probably out the window in this case but that said, it's .090" 5052 Aluminum vs. the OE galvanized steel so hopefully it will be a nice weight savings. It's also fully baffled and has a sump so no more sucking air when the tank is less than half full and the fuel is sloshing around. No more full length fill tube either, it's replaced by rubber. Not sure if a fuel cell would have been the better choice here but too late now. It will also give me an excuse to change the fuel line from parts store coated steel to aluminum.

I am thinking about a 'glass hood and front bumper in the near future too, might see if I can pick those up at Carlisle in July. I go back and forth about a 'glass front bumper though since I'm not a big fan of painted ones. I might re-visit plastic chroming, maybe it's made some advances over the last few years.

Just to mention a few things about the trans. It's got a 'race prepped' case from A&A which has a cut out for converter bolt access. The cutout could add up to a few ounces? Probably a negligible amount. The case is definitely lighter than stock, I think some other non-essential stuff gets the axe when they do their thing to it. My heavy cast pan probably negates any weight savings though. Cooler lines are the Russell black Twist Lok stuff with aluminum fittings replacing aluminum to the radiator support.

Car is definitely bare bones now but I wanna keep it looking the way it is - full interior, kinda stock looking outside. Running out of obvious places to shed weight, might be heading towards FMJ territory...

Oh no, don't come to this side of the woods man, the moon is full here.LOL.
I am sure that there are items lurking that could use a facelift here and there. One thing that I even took a note of is that some attempts took me years to either make, save up for or just plain find in between parts or conversations at the swaps. At other times, I just made them over night with the materials at hand.
I would suggest that you really look hard at areas that will be hard to get to once the engine/trans is in place, etc etc. Everything after that can be addressed thereafter at your leisure. Bolts will wait, brackets will wait just the same, parts will be found or wait their turn for the chemical jacuzzi if you so choose.

In any case, that car should really scoot the mail as it is. My friend "Glasses" had his at 2900+ with a very similar combo and goes 11's with half the effort of the open throttle. The full potential can be classified and I'm not at liberty.
I do hate that he has a working full audio system even though he has a full multi-piece Salsa band under the hood. LOL.

You and I can talk this season when we loiter at the haunts and bar mitzvah's.

Finally caught up. Spent free time over the last two weeks reading, digesting, and note taking. I'm prepping for some surgical removal of lbs, trying to make best use of my time and abilities while engine is out and searching out future projects.

C/M tubing is lighter than Mild steel? Or just stronger in smaller diameters?

Good info here.

Read the screen name of the guy that started the thread, he should be over here.

Weight that matters....

Stock


DMI


Balancer rant...

So I've owned this balancer and for years only ran it with five bolts because I could never get the sixth one in. Today when trying to put on DMI pulley I find this. Almost $500 and it can't be drilled properly? Seriously?

Thanks RMCHRGR

Later bolt pattern, one bolt is offset. I believe 72 and up

Doug

You only need 3 bolts to hold that pulley on...

That's all she is getting



That's good info to have. I don't get the logic in the shift but ok.
Not even sure why an aftermarket balancer company would cater to such a specific convertor. Does anyone even use the newer pulleys on a race motor?

CM is stronger in smaller/thinner diameter thus making for less mass and more weight savings. It has to be welded correctly so it does not develop cracks over time. Tig is best.
Wish Titanium could adhere to steel or CM, then there would be one heck of a trick car from front to rear.

RMCHGR
You will find that even though your new tank is made out of the light alloy, it may be more or less the same weight because of the baffling and sump. Though it will be low and in the rear where this weight is kept well as good ballast.
My tank was for sure a little heavier than stock, but again, not by much even with the baffles, sump and in-tank Aeromotive 1000 fuel pump. Gave me back my trunk space where I had a fuel cell before that annoyed me to high water.
When it came to making the 1/2"aluminum fuel line from front to back following the chassis lines, I would not wish it on my worst enemy. Take your time and be patient, it can be done. IIRC It saved a few pounds at least.
I forgets the company that makes really, really nice hoods and scoops that come to Carlisle. Good fit and looks right off the mold.
Wasn't a blacked out hood with 45 degree angle 340 WEDGE on the Dusters a fiberglass piece? Maybe not, but it could be replicated to look like a steel hood but be fiberglass/carbon fiber.

More weight loss, and it's high and near the front (in the words of FMJ)

Oil pressure old

Oil pressure ultra light

Amp old

Volts ultra light

Water temp old

Water temp ultra light

This is my gauge panel and the old bracket, I want to get a new one cut with a water jet. Is there anything you would use aside from aluminum? I currently have a piece of .075 aluminum with the it drawn out waiting on quote from two local water jet companies, but I'm not opposed to something lighter. 😁



Don't be jealous of my metalworking skills from almost 20 years ago. Sorry I'm not able to reproduce the quality of this piece for you gents either. Lol

Lee, I talked to the guy that makes the tanks yesterday about adding some provisions for line clamps and while on the phone, I asked about weight; the fully dressed alloy tank is 18 lbs., stock galvanized steel is 26 so 8 lbs difference for those keeping score at home. Again, the 3 foot filler tube is eliminated and replaced by rubber hose so that will also cut a pound or two. No electric pump for me, just a stone-age mechanical up front.

I have worked with aluminum line plenty of times, not my favorite pass time either. Making the fuel lines were easier than trans cooler lines by a long shot, more obstacles on the driver's side with the brakes. My fuel line runs up the passenger side frame connector so it's basically a straight shot to the front. This time around I'm gonna do a bulkhead fitting where it passes through the cross member for easy connections. I go to SK and get a 20ft coil. I made a roller tool to straighten it out, makes my junk look pro.

I believe the 'glass company that's usually at Carlisle is AAR, they have the gel coated parts on A frame stands in bubble wrap, right? They're called Stinger now or some such thing.

Dusters never came with a glass hood but had the same Organisol coating as the lift-off hood B bodies so it was a similar look. No big Wedgie call-outs for me, I never like to draw attention to myself any more than I already do with a loud, bright orange car. There are more than enough of those types out here already...

Those instrument panels are available in ABS plastic from a variety of places, some nicer than others.

Autometer makes a 'direct fit' one with cut outs for gauges but it's pricey @ $250.

I think Magnesium is as light as you can get when it comes to an alloy metal, but it can be a safety matter if ever a fire occurs and it's right in front of you. I would stay with aluminum as far as metals, though Carbon fiber would be much lighter.

I'm not sure if you Gents and Ladies have gotten my snob side that I wanted to make everything in and on my car in metal only hence the name Full Metal Jacket. I guess it's my own personal vendetta stemming from the A-864's and A990's being out of my reach.
Carbon is now the lightest and strongest way to go as far as plastics go even surpassing the old school practice of fiberglass. But could be pricey.

Yes, I moved over to the ultra light gauges back when they came out to lighten on the load up front and high. They've been working flawlessly ever since. The 5" monster tach saved a little bundle with the ultra light version.

CDW: Nice work considering two decades back.

I sit corrected.
That's a respectable loss in weight.
It's been so long since I compared my old steel tank to the new one. Though it must have been with the fact that both an electric pump, primary filter, wiring along with baffles and dams made mine up close in weight to the steel one. I'll check my notes when I get a moment.

Yes, That's them, AAR/Stinger.
Nice looking stuff, though I've heard of some delays in shipping, so buy it there or bite your nails. I remember "Glasses" having to wait for a bit for his dual hump scoop from them when it was under the management of AAR.

Yeah, I followed some 90 degree, 45 degree and 30 degree turns along the chassis to mount the 1/2 aluminum line and look pro. My hands were hurting for days even using the bending tool and bare hands in some places. bulkhead connector is a great idea. I used my connector fitting at the bottom of the firewall to serve as a mounting for the 10 micron filter as well. Hidden and clean.

I've dropped close to 800 lbs off my Dakota, maybe more now with the manual steering. Interior, before and after. The new steering column is steel, steering shaft is solid...Lot's left to loose. I'm at 3150 lbs without me in it, all steel body.

Gee, that is good weight.
Motor hustles easier with that feather.

Yep...

I could get it under 3000, but it would cost. I'm looking at fiberglass hoods, I might dabble in fiberglass and see what I could come up with for other body parts.

I'm staying with real glass, except the back panel, too much sand out here.