Sounds like you got a good one. Read and heard from others that theirs were not as good as yours. I was hoping to use the crank right out of the box. I may take a harder look at scat.

If it were my motor I would get all the parts then start measuring. If you don't know how or don't have the tools to do so than pay someone you does.... I don't care what anyone says, you don't know what your clearances are till you or someone measures you're clearances....
I had to buy 2 sets of bearings to get the clearance I wanted.

absolutely and couldn't agree more. i have the mics and dial bore gauge and will be measuring as i have all the engines i have put together. what would be a good affordable digital dial gauge for my bore gauge? brand name?

If what you have is accurate and have had no issues with your previous builds then I would use what you have.

i would like to replace the analog gauge for a digital one. what brand of gauge would be affordable yet accurate enough to measure bearing clearance?

plan on dropping a lot of coin for a good digital one, I was looking at more than a grand for one that can measure in .0001 increments. Tim

wow. i priced the brand i seen in one of Andys pics in his book. they were $300. im looking for something around $100 if that is possible.

here is a $30 gauge with the same accuracy as the $300 gauges. same accuracy as my analog but i can read it easier as well.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/0-12-7mm-0-5-0-01mm-Digital-Probe-Indicator-Electronic-Dial-Test-Gauge-/221842075927?hash=item33a6d17117:g:YRQAAOSwd0BVvVVD

I prefer an analog gauge, graduated to .0001. That way, I can see it sweep towards zero, and very easily take a reading off the needle, without having to digest a bunch of moving numbers. IMHO, .0001 is essential, .0005 is too vague.

i just may do that. All i have found with that accuracy was $200.

Curious what issues you've heard about Molnar products because all that I've heard has been that their quality is extremely good.

Same here
Post a link

well we have been lead to believe they were near perfect. Doesnt look like it from the few pm's i received from members who have bought molnar cranks. Not bad product just not as good as we have been lead to believe.

Without "outing" the senders of those PMs, can you post the pertinent info contained in them? Thanks - Brad

Its sounds to me you have a 50/50 chance at getting a crank that doesnt need machining. Dont want to spend $800 on a crank and have to take it to a machine shop to make it right. Any where from .0005 difference from one journal to next to having too tight clearance and having to have some taken off. .003 difference in lenght of rods. Some get a perfect crank and some dont. Its probably what i will end up with since i cant afford any thing better to be honest. I had problems like that with eagle and thought i could get away from all the extra machining.

i must have either got luck or muscle motors cleaned it up. my machinest said my was really nice.

I have yet to see any bad comments about Molnar products anywhere that I've searched. How are they accurately measuring rod length at home? How good are their tools? I'll bet that the measuring instruments at the manufacturer are a hell of a lot better than what most people use, including me. To be honest I didn't measure the length before hanging the pistons. If the deck height checks poor I'll investigate the cause. In my experience there is a stack up of correct crank index/stroke, pin location in the piston, and rod length. I've personally never built a motor that measured exact deck on all 8. I think a lot of builds miss import measurements and sweat the stuff that in most cases means nothing. How may measure lifter bores for size and placement, ring side clearance, bore for out of round and taper to the .000X? I'd rather have a few .0001" extra on he bearing or miss the deck height by .003" than have lousy bore or ring groove dimensions. Just my 2 cents.
Doug

I will say that if anyone has a problem they should call and talk to Tom. He's accessible and answered a couple of questions I had on rod side clearance. Very helpful!

We had a minor problem of a misboxed BB Chevy crank in a Mopar box. It was remedied immediately with no hassle!

i agree. Not saying its horrible stuff. Just not as perfect as i read about their products. I will most likely buy molnar crank and rods. You can bet i will report here good or not so good. If i spend $800+ on a crank only having to remachine it I wouldnt be to happy. I can do that with an eagle crank.

The Molnar crank I have measured up pretty decent. Mains and rods had virtually zero taper and were within ~0.0002" across the board. I made the mistake of ordering my Indy Maxx block with 400 mains, so bearing selection is terrible. I ended up going 0.010" under and having the shop turn the crank where I wanted to get the clearances around 0.0033"-0.0035".