A good friend of mine is ready to purchase an RB aluminum block and we looked at both Indy and the new Bill Mitchel (World) blocks. He is leaning toward the World block because it has mounting ears for the alterktion setup that has NON-Hemi mount provisions.

However, (and this might not be true) he was told that the new World block would be sacrificing up to 100HP compared to the Indy block because of the Sleeve flex in that particular block. This is Aluminum compared to aluminum blocks.

Is there any truth to this at all or is it just B.S.. Looking at the numbers as far as the bore size and borespacing, It looks like the sleeve thickness should be about the same as the Indy...So why would it give up power?

I have a World aluminum wedge block. It has B1/MC heads and makes approximately 1080. I call BS. That said I would seriously consider the HP Performance block. It looks like a real nice piece. Also, I can't stress more, do not give anyone money until the block is ready to be delivered.

Well IF that was an issue and having seen both of those blocks without sleeves I can tell you the indy is barely thicker than doubled over tin foil. So if the material between the cylinders is the reason I definitely call BS. FWIW I have both blocks and have seen both apart..

My BME showed up Wednesday.

[img]https://www.facebook.com/Crutchybilt/photos/pcb.798659353572644/798658956906017/?type=3&theater[/img]

I think either block will be fine for a street car. My Indy block has not given me any trouble.
But I went Brad Anderson on my current project

So who will machine you a block with no money down?

HP Performance. Said if you didn't want it, other people did.

I have never paid (40 plus years) for machine work done by a machine shop ahead of time. Heard way to many BAD stories. Guys have offered me money before I've ported their heads and 9 times out of 10 I say after the job is finished, PLEASE.


Now I did pay Keith Black half to build my block to my specs.

Thats my point. If you're ordering a block machined to your specs you're going to pay something up front. If you're buying a block and taking it to another shop to have machined then it's different.

I have KB block in the CNC now. I paid half up front. It sucks spending 3k to wait but it is what it is.

I still need a wedge block. The places I did call recently to get pricing all have a vg reputation on here and all wanted money up front.

Now if I buy a block one place and machine it another place I have the opportunity for two people to point the finger at one another if there was a problem. If I buy a block machined to my specs from say Best Machine he's not going to touch it until you send him a big check but if I have a problem I only have one guy to deal with.

I was going to have him do all of the machining. Although, I wasn't going to space lifter bores differently or anything. He may have wanted something down on it if he were to do something exotic to it.

[quote=JACK1440]My BME showed up Wednesday.

You might want to put Your roller tappets in to confirm cross-bar doesn't have problems with height of tappet bushings extending out of bores. Happened to me one time on a block. Corrected for free (It embarrassed the shop) but check

Thanks for the replies. He is going to get the World block. It is local and we can pick it up.

Best Machine in Farmington, MI wants $4800.00 up front before they will even order an aluminum hemi block, and quoting me 6 -8 weeks???

I don't mind 25% up-front payment, but is 100% payment normal for an Aluminum Hemi Block?

Asking this question because of what has been stated in this post.

Thank you!

I had the same conversation with them. It seems reasonable to me that if you want them to provide and machine a block for you to have to pay them for the block up front and pay for machine work upon delivery.

Indy told me that their aluminum hemi block won't lose ANY power compared the MP hemi block I had lol.

Thanks... I'll mention it to the shop doing my work.

To say a block will give up 100 hp compared to another block is redicules.First the build has to be compared "apples to apples"and under the same conditions.If you still find the results true,then question the builder and the dyno.The slightest changes on a tune or other change can result in dramatic hp loss or gain not a block,at least if the block prep was done correctly.

The Fact is the manufacture wants money upfront to order the block and we have to sign a order form to place the order. Why would we order someone a block with our money based on a phone call? If you are serious about your build than there should be no problem. The Indy block is stronger in the Main Webs and has 1/2 side bolts. Most sleeves are the same OD with the same ID and the bore spacing is the same so how is the World a better block ?

My Indy block has upgraded sleeves. I was told it could go 4.6 bore.

R.

Let us know about the good and bad in this new block ..I'm in the market for a block..this may keep me from making a change..

I would never bore a basic Indy block with standard bore spacing past 4.510.At 4.500 the sleeve is minimually .070+-.This is possible since they are a dry sleeve,going to a thicker sleeve will mean removing material from the aluminium bore which is a tradeoff for strength and give the opportunity for other issues,one being the pushrod hole location.We suggest if you want more than 605" use the raised cam block and .500 stroke/4.500 bore.
Like Pete we have built and sold Indy blocks in many configurations and we feel they are bang for bucks is the best (available aluminium block)with only 6 to 8 week wait.

Let me clarify something. The problem I have with putting money down on a block is when the guy selling and producing the block, does the machine work. If the guy doing the finishing work has to buy the block, that's a different story. I could see putting some money down on it. HP, Indy, and KB are finishing their own blocks, so that is what I'm talking about. People have been waiting over a year or more, for KB blocks and that's ridiculous, plain and simple.

I bought a new block from Indy 8 months ago. Had the machine work done somewhere else, nothing but problems :-( I've got $2400 more into it then what was expecting, but it's all done & hopefully will Dyno tomorrow .. Keeping my fingers crossed!!!

Lets clarify some information,neither KB or HP are doing all the machine work on their blocks,it's been mentioned that holdups have occurred because of incorrect outside machine work by both partys resulting in delivery delays.
We can say that having been to Indys facility many times that everything is done inhouse.They have multipule block and head centers and before the block shortage we were able to get a block within 2 weeks,with the demand we now have a 6 to 8 week wait.Do we find issues,certainly,but that's why the customer can choose who does the final work and assembly.Look at our industry intotal and tell us who's product works perfect as delivered otb everytime.
Also to address problems after delivery we should be more specific as to the issues.ie:How was the block ordered,was it a production problem,was it machined incorrectly?These issues should be brought to the suppliers attention asap.
If it is a difference of how it was done as to how your machinist or builder would like it,then it is just a difference of process.
The most common is the errors of communication between the buyer,manufacture and the final shop.Sometimes this is the most confusing part that leads to an unhappy and costly end.

The block I bought from BME was semi-finished in the bores, deck and lifter bores. Crutchybilt, the shop I purchased the short block from, will do all the finish work. I paid for the block up front. When I bought mine he had 6 left ready to go but, that was 2 weeks ago.

Earthmover I'll keep you posted on quality.

Thank you so much..