just looking around at rods. these any good? brand?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/182039681419?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Linky no workie.

Doing it the old fashioned way , I see 275.00 I beams.
You do get what you pay for.........I'd be looking CompStar at a minimum

The design looks the same as ProComp's better rods, which seems to be a copy of Crower's machined rods.

R.

Looks like a chinese copy of a good rod.

What brand just broke in there? Might find a set of the same ones and have them checked real good and match them to whats in there, you could save money on balancing again if you get ones that weigh the same. So you buy $300 rods and $200 to rebalance, you just as well buy at least a SCAT H beam for $500 and end up with a better rod than the one linked to.

Of course if the crank has to be replaced none of that matters but I would still get a reputable rod from SCAT callies...

The Scat pro series are the best choice in the budget rod world IMO.

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/scat-2-icr6123-2124a-premium-pro-comp-i-beam-connecting-rods.html

I can't get the link to work either. All those rods come out of two or three different factories. The brand does not matter they are all the same.

With that said, some of the rods are machined in China and some are machined here. It makes no difference as every part should be measured Before you use it. I bought that rod, or something close to it. The big ends were .0005-.0006 under minimum and the pin ends were .0003-.0005 under. Which was fine because I honed them to fit. Better under than over.

I just built a 440 for a customer with Callies Compstar rods. Super nice quality pieces for the money. If they make what you need, I would use them. JMHO.

I agree. Beat on a set of them with my 422, new owner had motor freshened and still using the same set. Been in that block 9 or 10 years now.
Best Machine really liked them, that's why I went with them when I did.

I'd like the name of the Washington [censored] who decided to not require imported goods to be identified by country of manufacture. Clinton, perhaps?
Not that it makes any difference for now: "no name given" = China, but China is feeling pressure from the other Pacific rim countries with cheaper labor, fewer regulations, and more officials with their hands out.
In 5 years "no name given" may = Myanmar.

I've heard K1 makes a good cheap rod.

Sorry guys. Couldn't get that LINC to work. Thought I deleted it. They are some offshore junk I'm sure. I. Looking at k1 or Molnar right now.

Yes I was looking at those earlier. Not sure of the quality on those or the machining accuracy.

Molnar is nice stuff.

I'm on my 3rd engine rebuild on my 408 engine with K1 H beem rods. Lots of passes but I'm kinda gentle on rods shifting between 6400-6800. I always spend a few extra bucks on the upgraded bolts.

I've got Molnars coming for mine. On sale here, they come with ARP 2000 bolts as well.
http://s753.photobucket.com/user/jacadam...rlekh6.jpg.html
Doug

On sale where? How much?

Dave.. I've been running Eagle H-beams for years..
BUT I bought 3 or 4 sets when they first came out
with them... my opinion is they were better quality
back then... on one of my engines they went to 9600
rpm a couple of times and 8200 ALL the rest of the time
but I did opt for the 2000 bolts in them and had each set
checked for size.. and ALL my engines run .003/.003 with
half groove mains... I have stayed with what has worked for me
EDIT
IF I were looking right now.. it would be K-1 H-beams

Compstar, Eagle, Scat, Molnar, K1, 440Source, ProComp, StarGalaxy, etcetcetc are ALL forged in China. If you're not paying $800 or more for a set of rods it wasn't forged here. Okay, Howard's has some for chevies that are made here and under $800.

The basic strength and structural integrity of the rods doesn't seem to be in question any more. Machining does. That is where one company may shine.

I think that any of these rods will take as much as a stock block, if the machining is corrected.

R.

I was looking around yesterday and found k1 h beams for $666 and Molnar h for $580. I think Molnar's it will be.

I wouldn't be scared of the Eagle rods you have. Just make sure they are the right size and put good bolts in them. You are not going to "wear out" a set of steel rods at your level. They are fine. Get two, because the one next to hurt one may be nicked up and you save that rebalance money

Yeah I understand Monty. I'm having a hard time trusting machinest right now. I will have more piece of mind with brand new Molnar rods.

$571 shipped with ARP 2000 bolts.

http://www.campbellenterprises.com/molnar-technologies/molnar-connecting-rods.php

NEW doesn't mean perfect. I have resized many a NEW rod because it wasn't the right size or not round. Can't check one and call it good. Gotta check em all

Thanks for the LINC. Geuss I could get those ordered right away.

Yeah I rolled the dice and got snake eyes. I was just verifying the clearances the shop gave me.

Someone asked what the oil temp was and I don't know at this point. I'll have to ask Dyno operator.

My machinist has a saying. "If it comes out of a box, it's FUBAR. If it wasn't I wouldn't need any of this expensive machinery"

Kevin

That was me Dave. When I dynoed my 434 that was one of the things they checked during every pull.

I asked him at one point and he said it would record during the pull. I'll see if he has that. The more monitoring the better for me. You should see all the gauges inside my car.

I Agree !!!!!!!

Compstar Crank and Rods were used in my 565 SG Motor 900+HP 7400 at the stripe....this same motor was run in TS on NOS in a S10 Prostock truck running 4.70's....it is now in another SG car....was just freshened at approximately 300 passes and original builder said it could have gone many more.

Compstar...Great Product !!!!!!!!

Rickster

That's a fact. Hard to get good machining from what I see.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/182039681419?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

they are for small blocks..

thanks for the linc, but I'm afraid of those. looked at those yesterday and started a post on them. I want a known brand.

Dave I used CompStars in my 408 and 434 with no issues.

yeah i know those are good quality rods. not sure what the cost is on those. i know the molnars are good as well and $571 shipped. i havent ruled out just buying two more eagle rods, depends on what it looks like in there when i get it apart. i would feel better with all new rods and bearings.

What's the rod journal size on your crank?

.010 under on both rod and main. was 2.125 and 2.812

FWIW, I bought a couple of K-1 "ARP 2000 Material" (note the wording from website) replacement bolts for my K-1 H-beam rods from Summit. The little ziplock bag they came in was marked "Made in China" . I wouldn't be surprised if more than one reseller of the chicom rods may be using other than genuine ARP bolts. Read their specs carefully.

ALL ARP bolts and studs will say ARP on them somewhere

If it's a race car put aluminum rods in it

i did buy them off ebay, but they do have ARP8740 stamped in them.

By chance did you measure the shank at the head and the hole in the cap?

I have turned many steel rods blue and used them again. As long as they clean up with out cutting the crap out of them to get them round.

No what am I looking for?

I was just curious to see how close the two were in diameter. I have a set of eagle and CompStars in the shop I'll measure.

I still have the old bolts but not with me at the moment.

I measured my rods and bolts. On both sets the shank was .010" smaller than the bore in the cap.

I will check that out tomorrow.