what brand, and tpi on the blade are you using lee ? is it an inevitable result your right bicep and arm strength will increase 2 sizes ? how many blades [or packs thereof] will be required ?

MoparX
I use Lenox blades. They are USA made for sure and IIRC, have 18 TPI and are for thick metal. I've tried the fine teeth thin metal blades and the blade loiters in one spot for the whole day. LOL.
The plate there was 5/16th thick, a hair tad thicker than a stock shock plate for safer use and it was lighter by half a pound at the end.
To make about 5-6 cuts, I went through about three blades. All tools including the drill bits have to be super sharp and oil cooled as you cut. I used less coolant on the hacksaw cuts though.

Yes I can now arm wrestle Dwayne Johnson with my eyes closed.

Perhaps I need one of these. LOL

i'm such a wimp dwayne johnson could beat me to a pulp just by casting a gaze in my direction. maybe i'll have to get some titanium plate to just saw up into tiny pieces to get in shape. you need anything else cut up ?

When I get a chance, I'll post the shock plates installed on the vehicle complete with the shocks and all.
It is a most beautiful metal. Probably should be under the category of precious metals.

Here's the Titanium shock plate complete with finished shock stud.
An aluminum threaded lock nut and washer on the stud end will cap it all off. 2-1/2 Lbs each compared to the 3.2 Lbs stock plate.

Not there is anything "real world" about it but I have been reading up on the Mopar Missle Wire Car. Pretty wild to learn about how extensively they used titanium and magnesium. Those guys were pretty sharp.

Yeah, they had Chrysler fully behind them and the Vegas and Pintos up front with their small block rules.
Apollo Trick Titanium was in heat back then to make a name for themselves in racing.
I visited their Troy location back in the early 90's and saw a trove of pictures from their projects with Chrysler. Wish I could have bought those instead of the fasteners. LOL.

As far as Chrysler's skunk works, the Wire car can honestly be considered their lightest in factory project yet. That titanium and Magnesium Dana is out of this real world.
I know that Chevy was slightly behind the "Black Widow" car back in the 50's and that car was tricked out as well.
There's a great little read by the name of "Cheating" about the Stock car circuit and their back door antics.
There's a lot to be learned by both the stock car and Formula 1 garages, but a bit pricey.

Getting real close to the magic 2900 Lbs mark. Real hard from here on then. Micro reducing at its best.
I'll keep y'all posted so that we can celebrate with a six pack of Bud-light. LOL..

Is this w/you ready to drive/race?

No, just the car as it sits curbside.
I'll see what and when some things can come into play once I reach the 2900 yard line to bring it to a decent weight with me in it.
I weigh 175 wet with cloths.

Did someone say six pack?

I will be down 140lbs in the next month. That should put me at 3100 with me in it

3100 with you in the seat is really cutting the gut impressively.

Finally got around to weighing my exhaust.
On the left is my street system...4" pipe w/ H crossover and Flowmaster one chamber race mufflers = 51 lbs. Lighter than I thought, lol.

On the right is my "race" system. A pair of 4" Dynomax race bullets = 19 lbs. total for the pair.

8sec.

That is one short system you had/have.
man, just imagine if you duplicate that very same system with thin wall 304 or 321 stainless like I had.

If those were the regular 2-4 chamber Flowmasters you would have had an additional 5-8 Lbs. Your advantage is the turn downs before the rear end thus cutting off all that additional tail pipe weight.
With all that is going on with me lately, I have not had a chance to get to my car till just today.
I installed the new Titanium shackles and rear spring shock plates on one side only. Looks good and I'll have flicks sometime this week if I get the other side finished I hope.
I do not look forward to cutting this stuff though it is good card exercise.LOL.

I added a few lbs. to the Dart by upgrading to 35 spline axles and 2 1/2" brakes instead of the 1 3/4 but maybe now it will stop easier on my test street from 135+..........

Hah! Nice to see this thread still cruisin'...

My lil wreck just lost close to 100lbs and i haven't even started on it yet. Decided to run a Magnum smallblock instead ov the 383 i have. That also means smaller headers, less exhaust diameter (and because exhaust is one place i utterly refuse to skimp, i'll probably go full thickness stainless, that will all add up). Further, i sold my B1's, which as far as aluminum goes, were bloody heavy (barely less than stock iron) and hope to go Edelbrocks on the smallblock, which will offer real weight savings (probably at the expense ov quality... but i'm no longer building 600+ HP here...). Also decided to ditch the stock 15x8" steelies for lightweight rims... which is another 30lbs more or less.

The only bad thing is, this thing (70 Challenger 6cyl/3-speed stripper) is extremely front heavy... and as i'm building for road race, i want to get as close to 50/50 as i can. I'm finding a lot ov free weight (read: tricky stuff), but its all in the rear. Heh... this is frustrating. Doing some quick math, if i put it on the diet i had planned, with no thought given towards frt/rr weight bias, it will end up worse than the 61/39 it already is. Grrrr....

Heh... anyone who insists a smallblock or even a 6cyl E-body is a balanced car has obviously never had one on good scales...

A lot of easily attained weightloss up front. Alum MC, Radiator, waterpump, intake. Fiberglass bumper with lightweight brackets, cutting the factory grille support, or duplicating in aluminum, relocate or smaller battery. Move things you can't remove rearward.

Move your drivers seat rearward as much as the reach will allow. It has a tendency to help large with front to rear ballast swings.
I'd look at every nook and cranny to get weight off that front end.
It's there, overtly or covertly staring you right in the face.

My junk is in the middle of loosing 220 pounds. My old body was 280 pounds. My home made fiberglass parts = about 60 pounds

I start mounting this week

Great loss of mass.
The only way I will ever lose half of that amount is by going with an aluminum block which I choose not to.
Will there be lots of fitting and sanding involved?
Those panels look pretty straight to me.
Nice work and fun too right?