Can you run a later year water pump on a 67 273. I was thinking like a 71 318 water pump or whatever. I'd just like to have the outlet on the pump to be passenger side as opposed to drivers side so i can use the radiator I have. Unless, anyone knows where i can get a 67 radiator for cheap to have a driver side inlet at the bottom.

You have to run the later timing cover, and either remark the TDC mark on your balancer, or run a later one of them too..

You can...but you *may* have to also change your timing cover to the 70-up style as well. Might be a good idea anyway as this is the most common setup.

I had thought the water pump blocked the timing marks completely...hence mentioning changing the cover...

SO I can use the later style.

However I either have to replace the timing cover as well, or use spacers on the PS, ALT, and crank pulley as well to compensate for the thicker pump.

Is that a certainty or just something to double check, and would you know how thick i'd need the spacers by any chance?

Also, why did Chrysler switch the side on which the hose exited? It does not appear to be a clearance thing. Although, it may make changing the lower hose a little easier as the P.S. wouldn't be in the way.

you got to angle the light just right & it's actually easier on the pass side when using 273 cover(pass marks) & later WP(pass hose) as you dont have the battery hindering you from getting the good angle whereas the other way with marks/hose on dr side it's alot more difficult.

Then I won't replace the timing cover. However, I still defiantly need to use spacers everywhere else?

just be careful that you dont split the timing cover to block gasket seal when you R&R the pump. Mock everything up with a wp gasket w no sealer & lightly snug the bolts & you'll see how you need to space the crank/wp/alt pulleys till they all 3 line up then take em off add gasket sealer & bolt everything up for good.

The snout is longer on the later ones, shoves everything forward. You could just get the brackets off a newer sb out of a junkyard so you don't need spacers. Get the full set of pulley's too.

I like that idea more. Keeps it simple. I'll get new brackets, and pulleys from a late model 318 or something. Then just swap all of it.

This engine swap seems like its always something else. I hope its worth it over the old leaning tower of power /6.

I have 1 more thing to work out and im done. When i turn the wheels fully to one side or the other, i hear a loud squealing, sounds like a belt. Also, the corresponding side rises about 1 inch. (i.e. if i turn left, the left front picks up about 1 inch), i think i have to readjust the ride height.

The squeal is the PS belt pump because its at the locks.The front end rising is normal.Its the tires moving.More pronounced on a short arm long arm car than a front wheel drive car.You can adjust the front end either up or down and it will still do it.Rocky

could have just went to a rad shop and have the bottom outlet moved to the other side

or have another bottom tank solderd on with the oulet were you want it

I have done this before and was about 40 bucks or so

same as you,wanting to used stuff I had that did not fit correctly

even had it swaped back one time also

I have cut up hose and used ellbows from my buddy that is an electicion that was the same size as the rad hose and run it under the rad area to get to the other side to hook up

run long tubes as well on mud trucks with the rad moved to the back of the bed with elect fans for cooling

added lots of cooling and used elctical pipe and a few cut up hoses

but in a pinch you can do it the way you have

My memory is not always the best... Is a 273 a cast or forged crank motor? I think it could make a slight difference if its forged as opposed to cast in swapping pulleys etc.
I did the swap on a forged crank 340 and used parts off a 71 318(last year forged crank I think and newer style pump) motor and went together nicely.