I know a big cam @ .050 is needed to get the flat tappet to "ramp up". Then there's poor flowing cylinder heads that need big duration to fill the cylinder. Mean while you're running into losing torque with going bigger @ .050. Torque is what's important for this combo, and very critical for a heavier car. Those heads are pretty dang good actually. Yeah they're still a little small for the cubes, but I have friends running combinations like this with less flowing heads. Since the heads aren't a ootb 440 source head that only goes 250ish cfm I would lean towards a cam that's in the 260s @ .050 and go for as close to .700 lift as possible. You can go with the 875 lobes so it would be easier on springs. I would use a beehive spring with a 875 lobe combo. This is just my thoughts and opinions. I know some guys on here that are very knowledgeable, and have a good idea on what works. I know of a cam guy that can really get you a nice set up going. He would probably recommend something close to what I am already saying but he has all kinds of other tricks, and details to the cam specs that plays into it.

A Dominator will pick the power a fair amount, especially if you use a good intake. The Mopar M1 4500 is a good one if you can find it. I think I saw one in the parts section.

I have a little bit of experience going 10.50 in a 3600lb car thru street mufflers and air cleaners on the carbs. My combo is this:
4.15 eagle crank, wisco flattops, indy little ez heads, small comp roller 272/276 at .050 with .620 lift in at 106 cl. plus the dreaded factory crossram intake with 2 eddy 750's. 4.30 gears and 29.5 tires. I shift at 6200 rpm and cross at 6700, the valve springs last a long time. I know you are talking about a solid lifter cams but this roller looks smaller than the ones listed.

Cab ,
Sorry for my poor responce . These cams are ground on 104 intake centreline
Thanks

Tex

Andy , what about using
a 4500-4150 adaptor ? I have both M1 and Victor 4150 manifolds

Tex

Shaking my head at everyone trying to compare @.050 duration from a flat tappet solid to a roller...just stop, OK!

I don't know if the typical 300/650 lift solid will get Tex to 10.50's, I really don't know...I wish the car was 200lbs. lighter!

Here's what I do know. I ran a 440 with slightly cleaned up Edelbrocks in my Challenger for nine seasons with an NF69 Ultradyne in it. 304 advertised, .277@.050 .640 lift 108lsa installed at 104. I flogged that combo within an inch of it's life. 3 different converters, 2 different planetaries in the Glide, 4 different rear gear selections, recordable rpm playback on every single run. The car was 2850lbs, I had an 1150 Dominator.

The eight inch that stalled at exactly 5400 rpm was slower than the 9 inch at 5100, because the engine was already past peak torque. The 4.88's and 4.56s were slower because it's tongue was hanging at 6400, that was all it had! Best pass was 9.96-132 with 430 gear and 9 inch converter, shifting from 1st to second at 6000 to get back on the 'vert as soon as possible. Remember, this was with a 14X32.5 slicks.

So, if you try to convince me that a 505 needs less duration than that 440 did, well Tex better sell that converter and get a 9.5 that stalls about 4200!

Second, my brother's truck, while far from reaching it's potential so far, was an absolute peach to drive on the street with that big Comp. 1200 miles on Drag Week on the same set of plugs, and never a wimper.

That 6872 Hughes is an awesome cam, I really like it. Just change converter and gear, and shift it at 5800.

Adapter on mine Tex, but I'm sure Andy will have relevant info on whether it's a good idea or not, poor guys do what they can! I was kinda married to my adapter at the time, because it had two sets of spray bars running through it that I really liked...

I use to use a Isky solid lifter cam that was known as thier 590/616 cam, 310 and 314 advertised and 282 and 286 at .050 ground on 104 LSA,if my memory is half way correct.I would installed it at 99 to 101 intake lobe center, that cam flat worked very well That grind is no longer on thier list of shelf grinds but they will grind one on order The best solid lifter flat tappet I've owned and dyno tested was a Reed cam that was suppose to be ground on 104 LSA but it was ground on 101 LSA I called and Reed offered to take it back and make me another one but I had a dyno date already scheduled and I wanted to run the motor with that cam to see what it would do I installed it at either 100 or 99 intake lobe center and ran it on the dyno, that particaular motor, 452 C.I. stock stroke crankshaft, pump gas flat top pistons with valve notches, 906 heads and a Eddy RPM intake and a Holley 850 D.P. carb. made the most HP and Torquue of any of the 11 stock stroke 440 motors I had built and dyno tested up to that time The owner put it in the car,1965 Plymouth Satelite bucket seat car with air, power steering, power brakes and so on. He said it ran way better than the old 496 C.I. 426 street wedge motor did The original 426W pump gas stroker motor had a smaller Comp Cams 292 H cam in it which struggled to make 500 HP on the same engine dyno two years before That 452 C.I. motor made 535 HP on CA 91 octane pump swill He also said that it pulled way harder from idle to over 7000 RPM than the old stroker motor did, he would shift it at 7000 RPM because he ws scared of blowing it up
With now knowing that cam is ground on 104 LSA I would installed it at either 99,100 or 101 intake lobe center Which ever I could get with that timing set IHTHs

I agree, if those were my only choices, I would run the smallest, the Howards cam.

But, what do you mean that all those cams were ground on a 104 Intake centerline.

Cams are grounds at A LSA and not at a Intake centerline. They are installed at a specific ICL

You stated differences of 110-108-106 LSA for the three separate cams. Im sure they weren't all ground on a 104 LSA Did , you mean a recommended installed 104 ICL

Also, I wouldnt use any of the cams you listed for what your doing. The hughes cam listed 6872 would be better IMO too.

Honestly, one of the main reasons I recommended a cam as big as the hughes 6872 was because it seems like Tex is intent on using a fairly big, fast rate cam.
If I were the "project engineer", in light of the self described "daily driver" status for this vehicle, it would get a smaller and slower cam than anything that's been listed so far.

A 505 with CNC stealth heads and a good carb, intake & exhaust, 10.5-ish compression will easily make 625-650hp with a solid lifter cam that isn't set on "kill".

My own 3670lb 68 Satellite went 11.23 @ 119 with a 485hp 383, running unported 906's and a .560 lift cam. No upgraded fuel system, no fresh air..... Full interior, heater, wipers, etc.
There is no doubt in my mind that plugging in a 505 as described, with an adjustment to the rear gear and converter would easily run 10.50's.
after all, it went 10.70's 20 years ago with an iron headed 9.7:1 448 at the same weight with worn out SS springs.

If it doesn't run the number, either the motor isn't making the power it "should", or the car isn't working properly.

Also keep in mind my thought process is based on the overall description of what Tex said he's looking for. The post isn't "which cam will make my car go the fastest", it's about wanting to run 10.50's in a car that will apparently be seeing a lot of street duty.
With that being (IMO) a large part of the criteria that needs to be considered, my inclination is to use the smallest, mildest cam possible to achieve the desired performance, and in doing so should have the best drivability and highest(or at least higher) reliability.

If we were strictly talking best 1/4 mile performance, or if the goal were closer to 10.00, I would look at it differently.

[/quote]
Andy , what about using
a 4500-4150 adaptor ? I have both M1 and Victor 4150 manifolds

Tex [/quote]

adapter vs intake manifold depends on hood height and size of budget. If the budget is big enough I prefer to change over to a 4500 intake since then I can run a merge type spacer under the Dominator. But lots of guys have good success running a 4150 intake with an adapter for a Dominator.

Andy, I'd be curious to know, if you just use the hughes cams for this purpose, how much smaller do you have to go in that program before you see the power numbers really take a hit?
For example, how much difference does it show for the 68/72, 64/68, 60/64, 56/60 cams?

Fast, thats kind of what I was saying about diminishing rerturns or trading off more bottom than you might gain up top. Still by the same token with a 505 too small a cam could turn it into an 'Oldsmobile' ( all torque and falls on its azz above 5200. 906 based ports are small even for 440" so to some extent you need some duration-compensation.

Thats why i was thinking a moderate rate 278@.050 solid with a fast but still decently streetable ( easy on springs) ramp would be a good fit. Ibwas thinking only go that big because Tex already has 4.10's so he's gonna need /use upper RPM powerband to get to the big end anyway, nonsense changing out his whole drivetrain. Tgat being said too small a ramp may hit that nose-over saturation point too early and force his to drop gear and possibly stall.

NSS guy, can you pm me the specs on that 272/276 Comp roller? I'm wanting to swap to a solid roller and use the super light MRL lifters on the 517, that cam seems close to where i want to be.

Wize, 278 @ .050 is just too much duration for that compression in that combo IMO. That's just not where I'd be.

If you err on the small side the motor will run great up to the limiting rpm of the duration.
If you get a little on the "too long" side, you give it up on the bottom and don't see the numbers get on the plus side until you're way beyond peak power.
This might work okay in certain race applications, but isn't what I feel would be a worthwhile trade off I this application.

Of course, the only way to really "know" would be to try both...... And I have a feeling that isn't in the cards....... So I'm leaning towards the conservative approach, knowing it would be good until it ran out of cam.

FWIW, 4.10s, a loose converter, 28" radials... the MPH to run 10.5s is 126++. That's probably 6800, maybe higher, RPM at the stripe.

CI works off of the engine specs plus the desired peak rpm. 268/272 is 6500 rpm, 265/270 is 6400 rpm, 263/268 is 6300 rpm, etc. Looks like CI shaves a couple of degrees for every 100 rpm.

Brad, thats kind of where I was thinking, my old 508 with a 252/258 Hydraulic roller ( probably comparable at .200 up and in overall drivability to Ron's (383Man's) 264/270 solid) and it was ( still is somewhere in A 72 Runner) a really stout street motor but it was all done by ~6200 with well ported 3.25 sq inch Stage V's and 2.19's. I only ran 3.54 gears and a 3800 stall 9 1/2" converter in it to compensate for the low RPM ceiling.

The 278 @.050 I was describing ( or trying to) would be cut on a wider 109-110 spread but would also have the .200 number that were more comparable to an agressive (but 4-6 degrees smaller @.050) ramp....just so it wouldn't hammer the valvetrain so hard for daily street driving and still rev high enough to use all the gear. So a soft 278 @.050 ( again cut on an .875 'Ford' lifter base) would pull above .200 like an aggressive 268-272 @ .050 but not beat the seats up so bad. Also in term of getting most/all the available head flow at .650 its easier to do that with a bigger seat to seat (but slower if you need it to live) ramp.

What was that 'McCandless special solid f/t that had a seemingly huge @ .050 and advertised numbers and .650 lift? It didnt act that big in even a 440 motor, was thinking more along the lines of getting the lift

The 6800+ RPM I posted is what I saw running the same gear, tire size, and MPH with a 4500-flash 9.5" converter.

I should have stated that all those Isky B/RB 590/616 solid lifter grinds are ground on a 104 LSA from Isky ,not on the ILC At the time I decided to buy and run one of them I was mainly looking at the lift and not the LSA for my M.W. 440 bracket motors. That grind pickup the 60 ft dramatically so I continued to use them on other motors, single plane 4 barrels and six paks for street and strip use As far as where to install the cam based off of lobe centers and intake lobe timing I've never had any Mopar V8 make more power on the dyno or run quicker and faster at the track by installing the cam straight up or retarding it, they all did better with 3 to 6 degrees advance on the cams Your results may vary

Wow , there is so much info you guys are putting on the table to assist .
Fast - you are right at this time I am not going full tilt .I do want to aim for that 10.50s , even a .59 would be great .Those ets will put me outside my current bracket ET and I will have to probably go to a restrictor plate or smaller carb . BUT I do want to get the best bang for bucks at this time , I don't want to strangle it too much undercamming it .
I did that on my 440 with the first set of stock Source heads , when I went to a solid ft from a 509 . Before fitting the CNC heads .
That is a big reason why I was looking at these bigger duration cams - hold the intake window open longer not higher per se to help with "restricted flow/port size" . I guess this is where Billy and I fit in together .
Brad , that trap rpm shouldn't be an issue , I could always go to a 29 1/2 or 30" tall radial .
Fast if it is OK with you I will try to call you mid week , maybe there is a slower ramp endurance type profile that will fit my plans , as a custom grind .
Oh yeah , daily driver is because I am a little daft . I do drive it every day to work and around on weekends - even interstate . As to drive quality and noise , my wife is not too keen on it , I love it .
thanks again for all the help and insights .

Tex