Haven't had much time to work on the 33 lately. Ended up not using my 318 but instead installed a late model 360 magnum. Got it mounted in the frame tonight. Next I have to mate a mopar driveshaft with a ford. The brake system is done and bled.

I have some questions on this set up.

1) is this set up strong enough to put behind a 490Hp Gen III 6.4 Hemi?

2) is this setup easy to find?

3) is this setup exoensive?

4) would a 4 link be stronger and/or cheaper?

5) can you easily adjust ride height?

I can't really answer how strong it will be. this is the first time I have used this set-up and haven't driven it yet. it looks to be pretty stout. I bought this 25 years ago as a new take off. at that time I paid about 500 for it, but it had 0 miles. I don't know how plentiful these are but our local you pull it yard has one but is pretty rusted from our Ohio winters. the only ride height adjustment is going to be how ever many coils I cut off of the springs. sorry I can't give you any better answers than this.

VERY NICE work so far

I read somewhere that the T bird IFS waS 4 1/4" BOLT PATTERN

how wide is that IFS? do the tires fit in the opening or will you need to widen the rear fenders? I thought the track width of the IFS was around 63" total, that is like a E body,
about 2-3" wider than a B body rear end.
just curious how it fits...

The bolt pattern is 4 1/4. I bought some high quality wheel adapters to get it to 4 1/2. Since this will be a street driven car, I am not worried about using adapters. I widened the rear fenders 2" each and moved the rear running board brackets out as well. The side splash aprons are still even with the rear quarters. You can't tell it was altered unless you know what you are looking for.

Also known as 5 on 108mm. The 4 1/2 size is 5 on 114.3.

It's becoming pretty common in the new wheel world to have wheels with both patterns. I know because I'm looking for wheels for my Elantra daily driver. It has 5 on 114.3. This just kills me because I have a nearly new pair of Compomotive 15 x 7.5s in my parts stash, but they're the 108 variety.

R.

years ago, my brothers buddy had a 90-something t-bird and didn't get aftermarket wheels because of that bolt pattern. i may have mentioned that pattern a few years back when someone here was contemplating using that rear on a project as a heads up.

haven't had much time to work on thee 33 lately, but did get the chassis done. fuel lines, brake lines hooked up. engine mounted. ready to set the body back on once I get it painted.

My original headlight reflectors were junk, so I built new ones. I found stainless steel bowls that fit into the buckets. then I got 2 junk plastic headlights and cut the base out that holds a late model halogen bulbs, cut a hole in the bottom of the stainless steel bowls and mounted the bulbs to the bowls.

Then I had 2 broken headlights from a late model Chrysler mini van and I removed the 2 magnifying lenses. I mounted these in front of the halogen bulbs. The original lenses fit over top of all of it. They light up very nice, yet look original when I installed the lenses back on.

Nice work

Nice work Charlie. I see you took these after I left today. Lol
Your cars are NICE and You are a Great person. Thanks again for the parts. David

good job ! how much of a difference did the magnifying lenses make in the light output ? what kind of beam pattern do you get through the original lens with them ?

the magnifying lens almost doubles the out put but the original lens kinda spreds it out. I am going to try to find some clear lens that will fit these original buckets.

Nice work, a pleasure to read, thank you for posting.

I discovered that my stock gas tank will not fit due to the rear end assembly I used. Couldn't find one, so I built one from scratch. My first attempt and I think it turned out very good. I welded some baffles inside to stop the fuel gauge from fluctuating too much. It fits nice and looks good installed. Only problem is ,it only holds about 12 gallons.

very nice tank ! you did pressure test correct ? i test by making a plate with fitting to attach to the sender unit hole, then seal off all other holes. fill with no more than 10lbs. of shop air and watch for bubbles using soapy water and a gage. when the bubbles stop appearing after i re-do the weld area as needed, and the gage holds 10lbs. for 3 or 4 days, i consider it done. glad you did baffles too. they add strength to the tank as well as slosh control. again, good job !

As said, Great Project!

I had the tank smoke checked by a mechanical shop. Not sure what type of smoke machine they have but they assured me that the tank will not leak.