That's a very good point to bring up Tig for those looking. I know when I made the choice with my car at the chassis shop that was one other option that was brought up was that if I wanted the car lower he could "re-do" the ladder bar mounting. I know I don't have 5" of travel, nor need it.... but for your application it would be good to know if any of these "kits" would provide that.

Thanks for all the ideas, pictures, and suggestions guys. Lots of good ideas.

If you were to change to a strut set up you would be close
to loosing 300# on the front end.. with that much change
in the front/rear ratio you wouldnt need that travel.. see
what your front/rear weight percentage is now and then with
a strut set up.. you might even need to lower the engine to
help out

looks identical to my CAP lca's and radius rod's , I also run their upper controll arm's and have had no issues, now I just need to find someone that has a tubular K frame that is set up with rack and pinion steering and no motor mounts (i use a plate) so I can use all the stuff that I already have, including my Strange brakes.

Got a set of dillinger lca setting on shelf collecting dust.

Ya I already messaged the manufacture in the link I posted to see if I could use my mopar based Wilwoods that I already have and its a no-go. I would lose lots of money selling mine and rebuying new ones.

John, what spindles are you using and are you planning on changing those also, I would have to go look at my set-up again but if I remember correct every thing bolted to the spindle flange where the origional brakes were attached.

This car is all stock Mopar up front so stock mopar spindles. My small tire 74 Duster is stock mopar spindles too with an after marker system and rack n pinion steering but we did LOTS of work to get the steering right. My black 70 car is really the nicest with strange struts. VERY easy to work on.

I removed the stock 76 disc spindles and went to a factory 10" drum spindle on mine.

If you don't plan on racing in a class that requires a stock type front suspension.........I would dump it all and go struts. Struts and a rack are relatively inexpensive, plus an easy install.

Stock Mopar front end stuff is a pain. Box is in the way, drag link in the way, heavy, etc. And while the headers you show seem to clear everything...........they look small, likely have tire clearance issues and the plugs look like a nightmare.

Race cars should be easy to work on. That and light weight are two of my most important things to consider.

Monte your gtx had a system you built right? How much travel did you have? I'm guessing you didn't need much. My problem(part of it) is on a 26" radial I need front end travel, also I am admittedly kinda cheap so I am trying to build my own.

Just can't understand some of the prices asked for these golden front ends

My car is street/strip and runs Cal-Tracs and not real fast, it ran high 6.50s with the 408 and who knows what it'll run with the 434. I need the travel for my car to work. If I understood what I read I can use my Strange brakes as they are on the large 73 and up spindle.

I e-mailed Carl Gerst and asked about the travel on his coil over conversion and about using it on the street too.

His reply to the travel question:
On the coilover for stock k frame, at the wheel is just a hair over 5", I'd like more, but can't get a longer coilover in without hitting something unfortunately, if you braced the original shock tower with a down tube/roll cage, and mounted into the original shock tower itself, you get get a coilover long enough to get over 6" of travel.

About driving it on the street:
Oh yeah!
This setup is far stronger than factory, and much smoother, no binding on the strut rods either, like the factory ones, all in all, much more stable front suspension.

Currently there are two guys making tubular LCAs. I have the HDK version but Junior636 has bout the same thing and a weld-on pivot suport. I am running the HDK without a support with a little different pivot shaft, but have not had in on the road/track yet. These use 3" travel shocks and get about 4" at the spindle. My UCAs were already on the car when I bought it, and are probably 19 yrs old.

That Dillinger setup was pretty nice but he dropped out I think. Junior636s stuff is the system on that GTS website. He has threads on FABO and YB. I have some pics of my setup on the install thread on my Demon in the susp section.

Your car has the shock towre tied to the snout bar so you would probably not need the support hoop that HDK and junior636 offer. I still used HDKs upper shock mount that goes inside the shock tower and ties to it. It would work with that green car also.

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...tml#Post1955700

Mustang 2 frontend

Limited travel and shock options

not that it really matters but, the GTS system is built by 71Street over on FABO. I don't think Junior636 ever sold any of his arms, yet. Although they do look alot alike

Has any one tired the AJE updated kit does not look like a bad kit I would like to here if any body is running one thanks

I built my own, well before there were any aftermarket ones. Build a few and you will see why they are not cheap.

My GTX had very little travel, but that was because I had it tied down and didn't need it, but could have had a LOT.

I used stock upper control arms and built my own lowers and frame brackets. Since I had Wilwood brakes already, I modified a factory spindle to accept a lower balljoint just like the top and built my own steering arms.

For info, most guys don't actually need NEAR as much front travel as they THINK they do

I'm on my 3rd design lol

I hear you on travel but like you, I wanna have the option and limit it from there. But I do no prep stuff and have raced the car on the street a lot. Those are times when I want travel.


Scott do some research on the mopar AJE.... you'll learn REAL quick why it's not popular

I now his first design had some problem was just looking at the design he had now