I had two 750 Eddy carbs on a tunnel-rammed 451, went 136 mph first time out with them! I switched to a couple custom Quickfuel carbs since they were alot easier to tune and the 60 foot was better but the Eddy carbs were cheap and worked quite well.

X2

Edelbrock sells carbs that are calibrated to be run as duals. Here is a link to an article I did a few years back with a 505 and dual Edelbrock carbs. That combo worked out great. It idled like a stocker but pulled really hard on the dyno.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/1007phr-big-block-mopar-engines/

The biggest problem with an Ebrock in a single, NON TUNNEL RAM application is heat soak , even with the heat riser blocked , the crap fuel we have today will literally boil off while you are driving it.

You ain't alone...

For carbs 'that suck', there sure are a lot of 'em out there kicking serious a$$...

This thread makes me wonder.

What is the fastest car on Moparts with a single Edelrock carb?

Who has the highest dyno number with a single Edelbrock carb?

They work decent for driver type cars. I still like my Holleys for race stuff.

Thanks Chip. Mine went 140 mph with a pair of Edels. I really like the carbs and they idle a lot better than Holleys

They idle a ton better than a Holley. The Edelbrock has a really sophisticated idle circuit with an internal restriction and air bleed setup that is designed to mix air in with the fuel. I don't have the technology to understand exactly how it works but the difference on a "hot rod" type of engine is usually very impressive.

I would agree the idle on mine is better with the Edelbrock"s. So is the drivability through the pits. Unmodified they will idle down to 1000 rpm with a 285@.050 cam.
Doug

your right, the idle/cruise circuts on the afb's are more sophisticated than the holleys. they may have as many as 4 idle/low speed air bleeds with a minimum of at least 2. the one i haven't figured out yet is the "economizer". the clusters are always mixing air with the fuel. i have a ch28 set-up that's a super driver and is more fuel efficient than any holley.

john, i haven't found any difference between a holley or afb when it comes to heat soak. on my junk they both have/had heat soak issues. the only solution i found for either carb was a fiber insulator gasket, and winter blend fuel really ups the tune-up misery factor for either carb.

In my limited experience is with 2 different cars, 2 different motors, but both in the same area and both with alum manifolds, and the heat riser blocked using the same type fuel ... both cars run stock iron exhaust manifolds.

The car running a 30 yr old Holley DP with the big air grabbber air cleaner and no spacer of any kind under it has no heat soak problems after two summers, ambient temp has not been a factor and no hard restart after getting the jetting close?????

The other car with a new thunder 800 and a stock dual snorkel air cleaner got hot to the point it wouldn't idle at a stop light without stalling and was hard to restart.

I really thought the Holley would have the same issues and was shocked it didn't.

john i've found that those thunder 800's are way too rich. this may contribute to some problems.

There are lots of nhra stockers running in the 10' s with one AVS. Just a AFB, edelbrock with a adjustable air door.

Probably ONLY because they HAVE to

The Carter/Edelbrock carbs have small fuel bowls where the floats take up a good percentage of the space in the bowl, and this makes them pretty sensitive to the fuel level in the bowls, but there is no easy way to see and adjust the float level like on a Holley. So you have to run the fuel pump or engine to fill the float bowls, pull the carb top off, check the fuel level, and adjust the floats if needed, then put the carb top back on, and repeat as needed.
Then if you are not careful tuning, and just throw different metering rods at it you can really upset the fuel metering as some rod changes can be like several jet sizes different, and the step size differences are all over the place. There are over 30+ different Edelbrock metering rods, and several more Carter metering rods to choose from with metering rod step size differences from 0.0000" to 0.0380". Considering each jet size change is 0.003" a single rod change could be the same at 10 or more jet sizes.
Then there is only the single accelerator pump, discharge nozzle and the AFB has the non-adjustable secondary opening rate. Also, only offered in a limited range of CFM ratings. I think all come with a choke too?

There is nothing really wrong, but they can be a challange to tune them, and this dosen't even compare to a higher end 4150 or 4500 carb that has adjustable (screw-in) restrictions, air and emulsion bleeds.

Carb comparisons on a drag car can be misleading because the carb is only operated at idle and wide open throttle in usually warm weather, not to mention most drag cars have high stall converters or launch at a high RPM so the secondarys will come in really quick because the engine is always operating at high RPM.

The Carter/Edelbrock carbs do seem to usually work well on street cars out of the box (if the floats are adjusted correctly.) Most have electric chokes for cold weather operation, and they are less expensive than the Holley type carbs.

Other reasons the Holley carbs are referenced here more (in the race section) is many of us are running 950+ CFM chokless race carbs.

If you put the time in to learn how they work and how to modify them they run just as well as a Holley of comparable size.

I think that I spent more money on tuning parts for my carbs than what the carbs cost. I must have over $1,000 in jets, rods, power valves, screw in restrictions, air bleeds, step-up springs, discharge nozzles, vacuum secondary springs, accelerator pumps and pump cams, pin drills, and other specialized carb tools.